Jump to content
HybridZ

1978 280Z LS2/T56 build


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This morning I walked into the garage and looked right at the LS3 oil pan and it hit me. There was no provision for a dipstick tube. The LS2 dipstick goes into the side of the pan. I was really sweating it for a minute. I call my friend Tyree and he told me that the provision was in the side of the block just ahead of the starter. It looks like a very small freeze plug. I knocked it in about three seconds and installed the tube.

tpai.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome build!  Really interested to see how it turns out with that oil pan.  If you run out of money, be sure to butter up Mrs. Charlie so that when you are in the money again you can spend like a drunken sailor!  Keep up the good work.  If you have time, please post a link or a picture of the drive belt configuration you are going to use.

 

The JCI instruction book assumes you will be using a stock L28 water temperature sender and a stock L28 oil pressure sender.  If you decide to use aftermarket gauges, be sure to plan to use the senders that go with your gauges.  If possible, I recommend using the oil pressure sender location at the back of the intake manifold as opposed to the location down near the oil filter.  I put mine down there and it is the only leak on the whole car.  I don't know the adapter part number, but it is out there in cyberspace.  You were asking me about the low oil level sensor in the side of the pan-I left it in place; there is an aftermarket metal plug available to replace the big plastic piece, but I just left the big plastic plug since the price was right.  Also, it looked brittle so I assumed I had an even chance that it would break off and create a parts delay.  Its been fine for two years-no associated exhaust clearance issues.

Edited by RebekahsZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There has been some discussion, which I am certainly not qualified to dispute nor defend, about the appropriate contact length between a belt and a pulley.  I guess there's nothing awful that will happen if the belt flies off or slips.  Just keep an eye on your temp gauge.  If it gives you trouble, just change it, but I wouldn't say that it is the devil, nor would I say that routing is awesome, but it certainly is clean, simple and straight forward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a couple of part numbers for some pieces needed if you're not able to use a complete F-body pullout.

-F-body offset lever for GTO T56...12523298

-F-body rear alternator bracket...12556915

-Bolts for above bracket^^^...11515767/11509666

-C6 LS3 oil pan...12624617

-C6 LS3 pick up tube...12624497

-C6 LS3 windage tray...12558189

-C6 LS3 dipstick and tube...12570788/12570787

Now, whether or not the C6 LS3 pan is going to be ideal has yet to be seen. But just in case, there are the part numbers for future reference.

Edited by WarlordZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...