RPMS Posted November 5, 2001 Share Posted November 5, 2001 Heya, guys. My oil pump didn't come with a gasket, and there wasn't one included with the gasket kit. Is there supposed to be one between the pump and the block? My assembly manual doesn't say one way or the other. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 5, 2001 Share Posted November 5, 2001 When I rebuilt my L28, it came with a very thin paper gasket for the pump. I believe you should find one and use it -- that's not an area I would want to goop up and hope it seals (without getting pucky into the pump and bearings....) ooops, I didn't notice this was a V8 question... [ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: SleeperZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 5, 2001 Share Posted November 5, 2001 SBC V8 Chev = no gasket on oil pump. For what little they cost, buy an oil pump stud kit. While your at it get a billet oil pump driveshaft as well. Together they cost about $20.00. (Summit, Jegs, PAW, etc.) Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 5, 2001 Share Posted November 5, 2001 Yeah, what Idaho said.... The surfaces are machined flat and as such need no gasket. The oil is going to flow to least resistance, that being the pump output and not through the machined seam of the pump on the cover. (now if you were to pump it up a few hundred pounds, then we'd have a problem) Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted November 6, 2001 Author Share Posted November 6, 2001 Thanks, guys! Not needing a gasket means that I can start buttoning this puppy up tonight. Idaho, what would a stud kit do for me? I'm ignorant of these things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 psst, don't forget to tackweld your pickup in place and test fit it with pan clearance before doing so...don't recall exactly but 1/4" to 3/8's from bottom of pan seems about right....anyone else??....a VERY worthwhile 'extra' if you can have it done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 Ross, in the 7 or so different books I have on building SBCs, I've seen 3/8" to 1/2" and 1/4" to 3/8". I'm going to set mine to 3/8", as too high, even by a little bit means an uncovered pickup. 1/4" seems abit low. Anybody have any feelings about using a MIG with mild steel wire, Argon/CO2 to weld a steel pickup tube to a cast iron pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 6, 2001 Share Posted November 6, 2001 Pete, I've successfully welded a cracked block that way!! Should work out OK. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 RPMS, The oil pump mount is the rear main cap. Using a stud in this area helps to keep torsional distortion of the cap to a minimum. With a stud in place, the threads on the other end of stud absorb the tightening of the oil pump. Studs kits are designed to utilize almost all the available threads in the cap which is difficult to do accurately with a bolt. Less torque is required with a stud to hold the pump securely, therefore there is less distortion of the main cap. The oil pump drive shaft has a steel collar instead of a nylon plastic collar. It is just added insurance. Cheap good insurance. Ross is correct, be sure to measure pan clearance and weld the pickup sump to the oil pump. The pickup tube is a press fit situation. Welding the tube is a "belt and suspenders" safety process which shouldn't be overlooked ever. Once you have adjusted the pan clearance, a muffler shop which uses wire feed welders will usually tack the pipe for a nominal fee. There is a special tool for driving the tube into the pump which only automotive machine shops will probably have. What ever you do, DO NOT attempt to drive the pipe into the pump while is is bolted onto the rear main cap. Remove the pump to do this. While you have the pump off, pull the bottom plate off of the pump. Carefully drive out the roll pin from the pressure relief valve galley. Check the plunger for condition, and ease of movement then lube and re-install the plunger and spring, lastly, add four or five .030 thick flat washers (whose outside diameter will just fit inside the oil pump relief hole) and after compressing the entire setup, reinstall the roll pin. This will raise the bypass pressure for the pump. Any more than 65 lbs of bypass pressure is wasted HP, but the anemic 35 to 40 lb spring setup of stock pumps is IMO too low. Any more than 65 PSI may have an adverse effect on hydraulic lifters at high revs. When effective valve spring pressure drops below the oil pump working pressure, lifter pump up can occur. (Another good reason to set lifters on the shallow side of the adjustment range.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 7, 2001 Share Posted November 7, 2001 Thanks, I'll do it and stop worrying now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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