yamahondarider Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hey guys, I'm thinking of taking on an RB swap since there is a JDM importer not far from where I am with some decent prices My main question is, can you simply flip around the oil pan and pickup? I've read this mentioned a couple times on other websites and there was a guy with a 240p video who mentioned he turned the pan around, "drilled new holes" turned the pickup around and then bolted it on. Is that something thats commonly done? Seems like a much more cost effective way of doing it than spending $389 on a swap pan. Hell, $389 is more than enough to do an upgraded fuel system including a cheap fuel cell! Or, more than enough to do a front mount intercooler kit, hell its more than enough for a SAFC tuner. I don't mind drilling new holes in the pan as long as its not gonna starve the engine, and the pickup tube can be easily flipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 It won't be as simple as drilling new holes. The flange ends are not symetrical. Also, if you flip the pickup around it will point to a spot that's not under the engine. The only way to use the stock pan is to cut off the flange and re-weld it. Additionally, you will need to cut and re-weld the pickup but at the same time making sure its positioned well inside the sump area. That likely involves trimming the baffling inside. While $389 seems like a lot, even after I've done mine by re-welding (flipping) I still think it's fairly reasonable. You really just have to weigh the cost benefit to the difficulties you'll have of: setting up the sump correctly, making sure the sump weld doesn't leak, making sure not to warp the flange when welding, risk of it leaking meaning a 2hr RE-RE (plus another gasket or RTV), painting it so welds don't rust, setting it up so that it's sloped correctly (reversing it will put the pan slope opposite of what you want). The list goes on. If you are really confident with a welder and have some spare sheet metal as well as an engine stand (so you can work on it the right way around, then go for it and flip it. Otherwise you have to fork out the dough. The pan and mounts are the most essential part of the swap. Good luck whichever way you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahondarider Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Understood, figured it was worth asking since I saw that video. Couldn't believe the guy just flipped the pan around and drilled new holes, I suppose his motor didn't last long then lol. I just can't believe it cost almost $400 for a swap oil pan for chist sakes. Not the most expensive part of the swap obviously but its $400 more than I can justify. I haven't bought the swap car yet, I'm starting to lean towards getting something that came with a front sump motor stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 No offense, but if a $400 oil pan seems like a lot, then maybe you should rethink the swap. The saying goes “You got to pay to playâ€. You can always fab one yourself. But from having one of Pat1’s oil pans, flipping it and having it clear everything along with extending the pickup is going to take you a while to do yourself; a lot of trial and error. Not saying it can’t be done, as mtnickel has done it himself here, but just buying one done will make your life a lot easier; the swap alone is enough headache in my opinion. I know from experience it’s a snowball effect. I came in with the mentality of “spending x on this and y on this and total of z to have it runningâ€. I stopped counting all the little stuff I’ve needed to go and buy for the RB swap. Yeah, you may be able to afford the mounts and engine and such, but you will never be able to account for all the small numerous things that you will need along the way. A gasket kit should be on your list of items to buy with any engine swap as it’s out of the car and is the optimal time to do it as you can get to everything easily. But either way is it worth it in the end to be different or just enjoy the car as is? That is a call nobody can make but you. Me personally, I wish I would've just enjoyed it instead of having the car down forever to do the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 No offense, but if a $400 oil pan seems like a lot, then maybe you should rethink the swap. The saying goes “You got to pay to playâ€. You can always fab one yourself. But from having one of Pat1’s oil pans, flipping it and having it clear everything along with extending the pickup is going to take you a while to do yourself; a lot of trial and error. Not saying it can’t be done, as mtnickel has done it himself here, but just buying one done will make your life a lot easier; the swap alone is enough headache in my opinion. I know from experience it’s a snowball effect. I came in with the mentality of “spending x on this and y on this and total of z to have it runningâ€. I stopped counting all the little stuff I’ve needed to go and buy for the RB swap. Yeah, you may be able to afford the mounts and engine and such, but you will never be able to account for all the small numerous things that you will need along the way. A gasket kit should be on your list of items to buy with any engine swap as it’s out of the car and is the optimal time to do it as you can get to everything easily. But either way is it worth it in the end to be different or just enjoy the car as is? That is a call nobody can make but you. Me personally, I wish I would've just enjoyed it instead of having the car down forever to do the swap. This is true (and often stated). It's things like: Fuel: Surge tank, new fuel pump, all the fuel pump fittings, wire and relays for the fuel pump (as it's high current), some new hoses, fuel filter. Easily $250-$300 all said and done. Engine wiring tuning: Bound to need more relays, various wire, electrical tape, heat shrink, random connectors. Most then opt for either stand-alone or swap to Z32 converted Nistune. Maintenance items: New water pump, timing belt, gaskets, alt belt, spark plugs, figure a few sensors are broken. Easily $350 Cooling: You can try and use stock radiator, but you will at least need a few hoses/extensions, etc. Plus adapters/new hoses for heater core. And again with clamps, fluids, flush kit maybe (for that engine that has been sitting). Turbo: Intercooler, mounts for it, silicone couplers, clamps. This can be big bucks. Gauges: boost gauge, wideband o2 sensor. I'm stopping here as I'm getting a little worried about all the money I've spent, but this really goes on. I've spent over $300 just in random paint, primers, grinding disks, in the last 2 weeks on doing mild repair work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritt Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 If your worried about spending $400 on an oil pan you should just not swap an rb in your car. I didnt even try to give myself a budget when I did my swap. Because I knew I would blow right past it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahondarider Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I'm not worried about spending money on an oil pan, I'm worried about spending money where I don't have to. If i could flip the oil pan, why not? If I have to suck it up and spend the cash for one, thats the way the world works. Wanting to save money where possible doesn't suggest I'm not capable of an engine swap, it means I'll have more money for go-fast stuff after the conversion is done . Like I said, I don't even have a swap car picked out yet, and the purpose of this topic was to help me narrow down my choices, mainly now to front-sump vehicles unless I find a clean Z car for cheap (never gonna happen) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Nobody said you couldn't nor weren't capable of doing an RB swap. We don't doubt anyone's skill here. What we were saying is that an RB swap in an old car takes more than the engine and the mounts; it takes a lot of little stuff you could never calculate in a budget. Stuff you'd never think of needing. And with the pan, would the trouble be worth it to save the money? That would be your call. Me personally, it wouldn't be worth the headache. But that's just me. An RB swap in any Z (except maybe the Z32. Never heard of too many of those around so I couldnt say ever reading about the oil pan in particular) is going to require a rear sump pan. So as you said, that leaves you with front sump cars. And from the sounds of it you want to be on the cheaper side, so I'd say go S-chassis. RB20 into S13 bolts in with the stock R32 crossmember. But as this is mainly a Z forum that info will reside on forums like zilvia and the such. I daily an S13 and as a dirt cheap RWD you cant beat it. I can get a low mileage stock KA from SR fanboy swappers for $100. I have 2 sitting in my garage. lol. Edited February 26, 2014 by R3VO 3VOM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahondarider Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Yeah I've been looking into the newer S chassis cars but apparently after fast n furious they shot up in price because every boy-racer on the east coast wants one, tears the motor out and then thinks he can pawn off the project he never finished for $3000. If I could get an S chassis for under $1500 without it being a title-less rotbox I'd drop the cash on it but so far my search has turned up nothing. I found a car that was in a fire for $300, I was gonna nab that but someone got it before I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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