RebekahsZ Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I think the parameter to have your tuner change, to effect a faster rpm drop when the throttle is closed, is called idle air flow. I think we dropped mine to zero. Which you would think would kill the motor, so it isn't exactly zero. It helped a lot. I have drive by wire, so we could also reduce my throttle motor sensitivity. That helped a lot with power snap oversteer coming out of corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted April 6, 2014 Administrators Share Posted April 6, 2014 Interesting about the tune. I have noticed it takes a lot longer to get back to idle than it takes to close the butterflies. You have any details of this clutch set-up like brand, part numbers, etc? I assume you're asking about the button clutch? I took the lazy way and bought everything together as one package. Tilton part number 52-33130. It's a triple disc 5.5" for LSx. Includes everything in this picture... Side by side of a stock sized flywheel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 To add a little more perspective to the comment about reprogramming the ecu, on my previous power plant we spend about 14 runs on the dyno tuning the 2000-6000 rpm acceleration between gears, simulating sections on one of the tracks I frequent. We managed to trim SECONDS off the time the motor spun up and down between that rpm range. Put that into perspective on a roadrace course where you're constantly running thru the rev range... Something else that may help speed up your shifts is reprogramming the ECU. The OE programming is intentionally designed to keep the RPM's up between shifts and these can be nulled with HPTuners, etc. Yup. Sort of. 38lbs less than a Monster Stage II clutch with 18lb flywheel. But I believe that package is nearly identical in weight to the stock stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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