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Looking for a cheap way to go fast with a L6.


Guest JAMIE T

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Guest JAMIE T

I just picked up a '73 240Z. I've got an assortment of parts that I could put together to make a good L6, but, I need some advise since I have never done a L6 before.

 

I have a '71 240Z, L24 complete engine runs great. It has the E31 head on it and a header.

I have a '83 280ZX with L28, that doesn't run(though I'm pretty sure the long block is fine). It has P79 head and F54 block.

I have the above mentioned '73 L24 with an E33 head(I think) It would also have the 9mm rods.

Finally, I have a LD28 crank.

Both of the L24's have early SU's on them(the guy I bought the '73 had a receipt for some '72 carbs, and they are on the car, someone paid $250 for them back in '86).

 

As you can see. I have a good amount of parts and options.

 

My first option is to just stick the good runing L24 in the '73 and drive it.

Second option is to Put the L28 in the '73 with the SU's.

Third option would be to put one of the heads off the L24's on the L28(E31 head on the F54 short block)

Then my last option is to build a stroker 3.1L with the LD28 crank, the F54 block, the 9mm rods, one of the heads. My problem with this is I want to go cheap. I can't afford a Triple carb set-up or even 2" SU's. Also, the prices I have seen you guys pay for pistons frightens the hell out of me.

 

How much more power will the L28 make over the L24 if both of them went in the car stock?(both would have SU's for now) Keep in mind that emissions is not an issue. Well there you have it. I want to do this cheap(actually, as kind of a challenge).

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Jamie,

First, do a through search of this forum. Many are in the same bucket as you. I'll be nice though and answer your questions since some are not easy to find in the search engine.

For a well tuned 2.4L vs a well tuned 2.8L both with SU's, you are talking about 20 some odd hp difference between the two at the wheels, + or - a little. But more torque.

Bang for the buck ought to be obvious.

F54 L28 with SU's. I say sell your E-31 head,(or the whole L24 motor and buy a N-42 head. It requires no mods, yields good compression on the flat top pistons of the F54 block, and will be a great start for your "budget" warrior.

The F54 block, N42 head, stock exhaust manifold, custom 2.5 inch exhaust from the manifold, stock SU's, and possibly some SM needles in the carbs. You'll be very very happy with the result. That combo will yield mid 14 second 1/4 mi times and will be a blast to drive for very minimal investment.

-Bob

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Guest JAMIE T

Thanks Bob for your reply. I respect your input on all matters L6. The header that is on my L24 wouldn't fit the N42 head would it? Would you suggest using the 5 spd from the ZX also? The other two L24's have 4 spds. I'm also thinking about using the 3.90(r200) rear and CV axles from the ZX for some extra off the line performance. I have a 3.70 ratio r200 also, plus the hardware and mounts from a '76 280Z(I think thats what they came from). I think the L28 w/SU's with the 5 spd(plus the big clutch since it is a 2+2 model) and 3.90(welded spider gears burnout.gif ) gears would be plenty fun in a 240Z.

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Originally posted by JAMIE T:

and 3.90(welded spider gears burnout.gif ) gears would be plenty fun in a 240Z.

For the street I'd stay away from welding the diff. No fun dragging around one tire or the other all the time. In th rain it promotes wicked understter and eventually breaks other parts due to the added stress. The rest sounds like fun though.
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The N42 is also a square port so you could use your existing header. The E31 is too much compression on a flat top motor. The E88 (That's what the other head should be, not E33) is perfect for the flat top short block. It has smaller valves than the N42 head, but with a stock or mild cam should make near equal power. If you run the ZX 5 speed, you will definitely want the 3.90 axle. If you just want to go fast, ie drag racing, I would run the 4 speed and 3.90 diff for maximum acceleration. So cheapest thing for you, F54, E88, 4 speed, 3.90 diff.

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