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Wolf creek CV conversion vibration


Ylo73z

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I was thinking of going long with my end links , but I like how yours are so short ...that would make my sway bar clear ...still need to road test under hard acceleration to make sure the control arm is for sure free and clear

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Sorry, I could not see where he was rubbing.  I clear just fine on the inside and outside.   I am running an R200 (3.70 CLSD).

 

I should point out as well that since I was already lowered using the Tokico springs and struts (280z springs cut), by shortening the sway bar endlink the end is now parallel to the ground.

Edited by ktm
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I took a closer look at your picture as well as my setup.  I am a bit closer than I originally stated only because I misunderstood where you were rubbing.  Are you sure that the stub shaft(s) is(are) fully seated in the R200?

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Yes they are as far in as they can go ...alignment groove is even all the way around , I put some paint on the cv joint where it was rubbing , I'll check it after the next road test , sway bar has gotta go , it's irritated me enough

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  • 4 weeks later...

4.60 (!)-you are gonna be one stick slappin' son-of-a-gun (unless you run 30"+ tall tires) ! What trans and tire diameter you running? With a 3.90, I found first gear borderline useless with a 26" tire. Maybe you are running a powerglide? I have gone to progressively taller gearing-3.54 with 28" tire (required fender surgery), using just 1-2-3 gears in the 1/8th. Even as it is, Im ripping thru 1-2 really quick. I really look forward to your driving impressions at the track. I don't presume to have the BEST plan. I wish we had a drag racing forum on hybridz to share ideas. As it is, we have to have a bunch of 1-on-1 conversations.

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I have a turbo 400 trans with a 26" tire ....it will pretty much just be geared for the 1/8th since that's all there is around here ...I have different ratios to choose from if I ever fronton the 1/4 mile ...I have a 3.91 , , 4.11 and of course the 3.54 but that one is pretty much only good for freeway travel

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  • 3 weeks later...

First pass ran a 7.1 @ 100 2nd pass 6.9@ 100

3rd was a mess 4 th and 5th about the same 7.0@ 100 ...traction is a problem at that track ...I'm thinking about doing a bolt on flare , bigger rim and tire , looser converter and a transbrake

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That's damn good! Awesome times. If you are un-flared, I'm guessing you are on 8.5s? My buddy has an unflared 280z with a SBC and a T350. Its a 7.35 car. He runs 26x10s at stock ride height and stock springs. His first year he had no rubbing but as the suspension wore in, he started rubbing this year. He put some coil spring spreaders on. Very ghetto, but he stopped rubbing on launch. I went to 28x10.5 this year and had to cut and flare like a mad man. I have one track where I hooked great on 26x8,5 lots of VHT and new concrete in staging area and thru 60'. But everywhere else I was spinning with the 26x8.5. Went to sticky track with the big meats and dead hooked 3 times, third time broke driver side Z31T axle inside the diff. I bought some narrower 28x9s but haven't been back to track in a couple months. This summer has been terrible for free time. I guess in San Diego it's always summer! I'm wondering whether I should keep the 10.5s handy for nights at the sloppy tracks(?). Traction vs no traction is the difference between 7.0s and 7.30s for me. I'm dropping clutch on a T56 with a 3.54 gear and going thru the lights in 3rd gear. What were your rpms like at the finish in 3rd gear with 4.60s and a 26" tire? Your 3rd is 1:1(?) my third is something less than 1:1 I would assume.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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If you could give me some details on what wheels and back spacing your buddy is using to get a 10" tire under there I would be grateful ...I'm running the hoosier quick time pro 26x9.5 ...it actually only had a 8" tread on it ...my 3rd is 1:1 and I'm not sure what my rpm was because the car was a hand full but I would guess 6 k-6500 ...I think a trans brake would help me shock the suspension into making the car hook harder...I was getting 1.63 60 foot times basically just snapping the throttle off the line at idle

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Realize that his tires hang out the side more than an inch, so you have to have a lot of vertical clearance between the tire and the fender arch. It is a vertical/squat issue, so rolling the fender doesnt help. And he doesn't have a trans brake either, but he almost hauls his front wheels off the ground. With stock spring rates, his suspension is working pretty hard. With an auto trans, his nose is high and the rear suspension stays loaded on the back, whereas with my manual trans there is a porpoising motion (weight transfer) with each shift. That's why I went with taller gears, to eliminate the very early 1-2 shift. I bet with more power, he would have more rubbing trouble. What wheel are you running now? My buddy runs a 4.5" back spacing 15x8 Weld Draglite wheel with a Mickey Thompson ET Drag 26x10 bias ply slick. That wheel is very common and can usually be picked up used. The aluminum is very soft and all the used ones are warped, but with 10-15 psi, I doubt it matters. The section width is about 12" and the tread is a true 10". I tried them on my lowered Z-no way!

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15x 8 seems like it's too small for a 10" tire ...does it crown and wear the middle allot ?

I have Craigar super lights they are 15x 7 I believe ...not sure the back spacing , I bought those wheels in 99 or 2000 , my car stays squatted but once I get past the treated 40 feet or so , it feels real soft ...had to pedal it on one pass , it still kept blowing the tires off in 2nd at 50mph so I just pulled it in high and cruised to a 8.60 @ 58mph

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