RebekahsZ Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Did you need any offset dowels? How far was it off, if off at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 Did you need any offset dowels? How far was it off, if off at all?Both the engine had dowels and the tranny had dowels so that it lines up perfectly. I just went to my local dealer and got the dowels for free. My main issue was the clutch slave cylinder trying to get it the right distance away from the clutch assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122059-installing-quick-time-sfi-bellhousing-with-t56/ Have you checked this link? It is currently on the second page of the Gen III forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122059-installing-quick-time-sfi-bellhousing-with-t56/ Have you checked this link? It is currently on the second page of the Gen III forum. I had literally none of those issues states in that thread except the lack of instructions, but is honestly straight forward and pretty simple to index if you have the dowels that the oem engine and oem tranny came with. It makes the process a billion times easier. I had no issues with bolts, the metal wasn't too soft, everything lined up as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 These dowel pins, which are on the tranny from the factory, line up the transmission and the bellhousing exactly where it needs to be. The Trans has 2, 1 on each side. The engine has larger ones aswell so it lines up everything the way it need to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Great! Looks like its all coming together nicely. Following to learn more. Turbo LS in my distant future, just probably not in a Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I have an LQ4 in my truck, but I paid somebody to do the swap so I have never had it torn down. Where are the knock sensors located on an LQ4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 LQ4 is till Gen III based IIRC, so they should be in the valley. If not, they are on the sides of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 Yep, pull your intake off, they're in the valley right under the intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 (edited) Argh-check engine light-knock sensor code-now which one???? Argh...maybe I can research the code better. Edited May 8, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Argh-check engine light-knock sensor code-now which one???? Argh...maybe I can research the code better.May as well change them both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Both sensors and the subharness just for piece of mind. Kind of like the knock sensor and harness for a VG30... impossible with assembled engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Hmm I'm wondering if these silverado shorties would work in replacement of flipped truck exhaust manifolds. A V-band would be welded on instead of those huge flanges that are currently on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 So a little update. Not much has really happened lately. I have all the materials for engine mounts and a trans cross member. Not much will likely get done until around October because of the 115+ degree heat we see in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 So a little update. Not much has really happened lately. I have all the materials for engine mounts and a trans cross member. Not much will likely get done until around October because of the 115+ degree heat we see in the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Now that it has cooled down, progress on the car has been made. I scored some free simpson 5 point harnesses for free. basically brand new still, It was time for the first fitment test. she fit in there almost perfectly. of course the old trans mounts were in the way. The engine fit perfectly as soon as the trans mounts were cut out of the transmission tunnel. The shifter even sticks perfectly through the stock hole. Also, before it was too late, i decided on buying a new turbo. I upgraded to an 88mm turbo. The smaller turbo had an turbine wheel too small for the 6.0, so i figured it was best to upgrade while i can. before engine mounts were made, i decided that none of the stock fuel system would be reused. The stock tank is being replaced by a fuel cell. the stock fuel lines and pump were no longer going to be used either. So i tore out the entire fuel system, including where the tank vents to. The worst part of this was separating the fuel lines from the brake line that goes to the rear passenger brake and then cutting the fuel lines into pieces, trying to remove the lines from around the rear suspension. Engine mounts are made and supporting the engine.Huge thanks to my dad doing the fab work!An angled plate was welded to the frame rail to reinforce the frame rails, but 4 holes in each frame rail was drilled in order to make room for a threaded nut that was welded on the plates before being welded to the frame rail so that the engine mounts could still be removable. with the plate welded to the frame rail, another plate, similar to the one welded to the frame rail, was welded to the post of the engine mount, also with 4 holes drilled in the same locations as the other plate. with this, the mount will be able to bolt and unbolt from the car.look at the picture for reference. With attaching the engine mount to the frame rail, the original mounts on the K member will be cut off so there is more room for the turbo exhaust to exit. The original plan was to use the stock exhaust manifolds, but the only way to get them to fit was to cut some of the manifold off and weld pipe to it, which is not what i wanted to do for cosmetic reasons. I looked into up and forward headers, which also can be used for down and forward headers, but i was unsure how well they hug the block and did not want to be stuck with a pair of headers that would also not fit. Instead, exhaust manifolds and the rest of the hot side is just about ready to fab up. I have my water pump temporarily installed and am waiting on the fbody alternator bracket to come in so fab work can begin on the exhaust. Mild steel is the choice of material as it is cheaper, plus it is very rarely humid out here, but the exhaust will be ceramic coated anyways to prevent corrosion and for cosmetic reasons. Before a trans mount can be made, I ordered bad dog frame rails to reinforce the flimsy OEM ones. To prevent risk of fire, the interior had to come out, The seatbelts, seats, carpet, center console, and some other odds and ends had to be removed. None of what was removed was being reused. Earlier in the build, I mentioned how rust-free this car was. as i was about to pull the first section of carpet, i was really expecting to see some major rust on the floorboards or something, but luckily, the car has really solid floorboards and it was a huge weight off of my chest! Edited January 19, 2016 by Meatwad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Man, those are some clean floor boards. Nice platform to get started with, not the usual rust bucket these cars are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Yeah, I'm so thankful for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 May wanna try fitting those seats now while the interior and floors are bare... I'm betting you will find that the trans tunnel hump on the drivers side will prevent the seat from centering properly, and that wing will definitely be hitting the door/glass/b-pillar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatwad Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 The inside will be bare for a long time as it will get a roll bar in so on, but yeah, I plan on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.