MS3X optical trigger help

[jonnymerc]

hey guys here is what i have.

 

 

L28ET rebuilt

meagsquirt3x

Quadspark module

Their IGN-6 coils

440 cc injectors wired indiviually

rebuilt stock turbo

diyautotunes optical trigger wheel for l28et

 

 

i Have wired it according to specs and i get nothing but when i flip the primary and secondary wires i get a signal that doesn't stay synced.

Here's how they tell you to do it.  Sorry cant seem to figure out how to link my tune file and trigger logs.

 

 

 

Using the MS-III V3.0 or V3.57 ECU with MS3X for full sequential

Hardware setup

• The MS3 manual generally favors the VR input, so we'll be using that.
• Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position for a V3.57. For a V3.0, jumper TachSelect to VRIN.
• Place the J1 jumper in the 3-4 position for a V3.57. For a V3.0, jumper TSEL to VROUT.
• Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot on a V3.57. For a V3.0, run a 1K resistor from S12 to TachSelect. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring from a 12 volt source to pin 24 of the main board.)
• The second trigger input also needs a pull-up. Install JP7.

TunerStudio settings (Sequential coil on plug and / or sequential fuel): All are under Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options / Wheel Decoder.

• Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
• Ignition input capture: Rising Edge
• Spark output will depend on what output setup you're using. QuadSparks use Going High / Inverted; so do OEM SR20DET ignition modules. Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting.
• Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel with missing tooth
• Trigger wheel teeth: 12
• Missing Teeth: 1
• Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.)
• Wheel speed: Crank wheel
• Second trigger active on: Poll Level

 

 

[winstonusmc]

 

These are my settings. I use coil on plug with the standard 6 channel Nissan igniter from various Maximas. I can't remember how I did the pull up resistor on the man board, but its done to 5v with a 330 ohm resistor done in the project area of the V3.0 board. I think its connected to the "tachselect". Its been this way since it was installed on an RB25/26 with the same style sensor.

[jonnymerc]

I just tried all your settings and rewired the pull ups, still nothing i don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas ?

[NewZed]

i Have wired it according to specs and i get nothing but when i flip the primary and secondary wires i get a signal that doesn't stay synced.

Just an observation from an impartial observer, but you haven't really even described a problem, besides "get nothing" and "signal that doesn't stay sync'ed", and primary and secondary could mean many things.

 

And your no punctuation writing style isn't going to draw many people in.

[jonnymerc]

You would know what I'm talking about if you used the DIY trigger with an 83 distributor. On an 83 distributor there are two signal wires, one to read the inner ring primary (cam/crank i don't know which) the other for the outer ring secondary. 

[tooquick260]

Dizzy    Side Harness Side      Purpose

 

Red             B/W                              12v+

 

White          G/B                        Primary Trigger

 

Green         G/Y                        Second Trigger

 

Black          Black                            Ground

 

 

This is what I used as far as wiring. Double check your resistor pick ups. Double check your wire connections. I was using a GM weather pack plugs and kept losing sync. So i took that off and ended up using the stock round datsun dizzy plug. Then butt connectors with aluminum foil wrap to make sure no cross signal.

[NewZed]

Since you have signal, but no sync., and you're using the VR circuit, noise seems likely.  The pots are designed to tune it out, to a certain extent.

 

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm

[jonnymerc]

I may have a short ? With the distributor removed being manually spun everything is good cam sync,rpm Crank etc etc. Once its placed in the block it doesn't read any signal again. checked the signal power in the block and out, there is a drop from 8 volts to low 5 is that normal.

[NewZed]

Sounds like you might have a ground loop happening.  They're a little bit difficult to get under control, but at least you have a direction.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

 

http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm

 

Pin21 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin22 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black Pin23 GROUND This is one of several ground wire pins (18 through 23). All of the ground wires should be run to the same spot on the engine (to avoid ground loops). Make sure you have a good ground connection from the batteries negative terminal to the engine, and from the engine to the frame as well. Black

 

I'll leave you alone now...

Edited August 24, 2014 by NewZed