CableSrv Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 So picked up my car which was a 71 240z as pictured.. https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd These were the problems found horrible seats destroyed weatherstripping car ran super rich 4 speed shifts very sloppy one tire was gashed and leaking air tach didn't work wiring was randomly spliced here and there all over. With that said, the dash was pristine! I decided just to try to get her to run reliably at first and did the following replaced seats replaced fuel filter triple oil change, with he first two being with marvel mystery oil replace distributor with a re-manufactured one and upgrade it to pertronix replaced the coil with a pertronix flamethrower replace all spark-plugs with ngk's and gap them to .042 upgrade the alternator to a 60amp unit with a re-manufactured delco/remy from a 280zx rebuild the carbs floats, and install new needles and clean up the carbs as much as I could. Checked for air leaks on bushings and found none. valve lash was horribly incorrectly set and engine was only running on 5 cylinders since a valve was probably stuck open. After doing all this my fuel pump gave out and the wiring apparently showed to have shorts... battery drained over-night and said **** it.. bought ezwiring 12 mini kit. Currently rewiring the car as we speak. Then said might as well swap to the ls1 I've always wanted. Found someone that is selling ls1 and t56 for about 3k so buying it come monday. Currently already have on order: ChevyThunder standalone harness + pcm preflashed walbro 255 pump camaro regulator/filter tilton 7/8 clutch master russel clutch adaptor for the t56 46in clutch line new idler pulley new belt throttle cable kit I've already talked to Johns cars about picking up my JCI kit, which is awesome since I'm local to him. So probably next weekend I'll be taking out the old L24 and 4 speed and prepping the engine bay for it's new heart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks260z Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nice, I am looking forward to watching your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Looks like a great car to start with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 the floor pans so far are the only thing really that looks like it needs to be replaced rust wise. battery tray isn't so bad and the rear deck isn't that bad either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Next time you see John at JCI tell him "Hi" from Bill Davis. My car was the one he developed his conversion components on. 11.5 years later and still running strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Yup, remember following your build LONG ago when you were still in texas. Sadly his prices apparently went up and his headers now cost more than Jag's ls1 headers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) So I found a LS1 and T56 from a 98 camaro and the guy will be dropping it off friday afternoon. Has about 180k miles on it... what maintence should I do besides these? flush fluids spark plugs spark plug wires check water pump I'm already swapping the belt/pulley due to A/C delete. Is there anything I should check with the heads? Engine was running well when I went to see it. I'm also getting a harness/pcm from ChevyThunder, just waiting for it to be done. I do have a few questions tho. I do not see O2 bungs on the JTR headers for the ls1? I assume I will have to get them added on the exhaust side.. which means I can't start the engine without at least a down pipe made from the shorty headers? Fuel lines.... so I think I might have misjudged what I was going to do... I was just going to run 3/8 fuel hose's using the screw type clamps.. but the guy I was buying the engine said that with the EFI psi that runs on these cars.. that would not be adequate.. So I started looking at the doorman nylon push fittings and or SS braided line with summit -6AN push fittings.. Any ideas on cheapest route to go for that?I was thinking of getting these http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-Corvette-LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fitting-Fittings-Kit-AN-6-BLUE-3-pc-Kit-/121524297441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4b699ee1&vxp=mtr for the corvette filter/reg but I think I read somewhere that those type of fittings have a bad rep of coming off under pressure and that instead of those get the type with the screw ends instead of plastic ends. Edited January 22, 2015 by CableSrv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I also have a '98 Camaro LS1 in my 280Z. The big difference is that mine still only has 38k miles on it. One thing, though, from the factory those engines were set up with a bypass fuel regulator that required a return line to the fuel tank. Fuel pressure at the injectors is supposed to be right at 59 psi. I suppose you can set yours up with a correct pump/regulator to not have to use a return line. Last thing - don't go cheap on fuel lines. You won't like standing in the road,,or worse yet, your garage and watch your car burn to the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 well I am using the corvette regulator/filter which has built in return line right at the tank. I think I might build me a 3/8 hardline and use AN compression fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Fuel lines can be easy on the wallet if you don't get frustrated easily, I bought a tube bending tool and a double flare tool and made mine out of 3/8" od tubing. I had one minor leak that required some more torque on a coupling. I did use braded lines from the pickup to the pump (an8) I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 My problem I think is I don't know all the different styles of AN fittings... or which ones I need. I do like the idea of keeping with a hardline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Anyone used these before ? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b these are a 3/8 tube to AN adaptors. Would they hold under normal psi ? Or should I go with flared? and if flared.. what an flare nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I had AN fittings brazed onto my hard line. It was simple. I would use all flex line if I were to do it again. Fewer connections which means lower risk of leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Anyone used these before ? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b these are a 3/8 tube to AN adaptors. Would they hold under normal psi ? Or should I go with flared? and if flared.. what an flare nuts? The shop that is going to do my nitrous and fuel lines suggested flaring the tubing instead of using these adaptors. They mentioned these adaptors can fail. Nothing like fuel and nitrous leaking over your coils to ruin your day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) I had to draw a diagram with all the different connections for the pickup, filter, pump, regulators, and rail connection to make sure I had everything covered. The tank I built has a 1/2" npt, the walbro was a 10mm, the regulator 3/8" I believe etc. i think I have some pics in my build thread. the long runs were easier because double flare fittings are available at most auto parts places. So figure out what equipment your going to use and your line size. Look at the specifications for the equipment connection size and style for each connection and then count out the appropriate fittings to adapt to the tubing. I would imagine those summit fittings would be fine if you are using aluminum tubing, they won't bite into steel tubing. Edited January 24, 2015 by Naptown Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dGyV-T6bJk L24 and 4speed out... now just to prep the engine bay and cleanup all that nasty grime then paint it... Anyone got a opinion on using paint stripper? then painting over that with like truck bed liner ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Now I just need to sell my old engine/trans and recoupe some money for more parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Well last night my fuel lines came in!!! 3/8 hardline with all the -6AN fittings as well as my tube bender. as I started cleaning up the engine bay I noticed there is some really bad rust on the floor pans and not sure I really like the idea of bolting up the trans mount to that area. The area where the bolts will be will be in good metal but to me it just seems like I'm begging for something to happen even with a stock engine. So bit the bullet and ordered new floor pans and bad dog front and rear rails. I also ordered me a Eastwood 200DC tig machine and a 80CF cylinder. I really wish I didn't sell my Millermatic 135 when I had it. I also ordered to soft lines using black nylon/stainless steel braided fuel line and the black -6AN fittings for each of the soft lines. Headers from JTR should arrive today!! so stoked to finally get them and put them on the engine. Chevy Thunder also just emailed me saying he's already shipped off my harness!!! Wow that was quick!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 http://i.imgur.com/p33ZD4B.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1tvLr1K.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MWJGNbD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hKMTxS4.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/hKMTxS4.jpgreceived my new block huggers, and my ls1 egr block off plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Fuel lines can be easy on the wallet if you don't get frustrated easily, I bought a tube bending tool and a double flare tool and made mine out of 3/8" od tubing. I had one minor leak that required some more torque on a coupling. I did use braded lines from the pickup to the pump (an8) I believe. Late to the party but that is what I did when I swapped out my turbo build for the LS1. I used SS tubing through and had a shop weld on AN fittings by the tank and up by the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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