CableSrv Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0sHDyj9UEoas well as a album of the current clean up of the LS1 I recieved. https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb#0 So far after tearing it down and seeing what I had to deal with, it hasn't been so bad. Valves and their seats are still in perfect condition and no leaks could be found. no damage to pistons or cylinder walls and you can still see the original cross hatch from the original hone, which I believe is amazing considering this is at 180k miles... I'd have expect some wear on the bore but there doesn't seem to be much. Either way I have the intake soaking but it doesn't seem to be getting any less oily from what the EGR did to it.. Any suggestions on what to soak the intake with to help degrease it? currently its in a bath of dawn dish detergent and purple power from autozone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Ugh got sick with some intestinal crap.. finally feeling good and getting the engine back together. I received my standalone harness/pcm and my new floor pans and radiator! Still waiting on my bad dog frame rails which will be here by next weekend as he said some were still being made. Will take pictures later of some of the stuff that's arrived. And hopefully of a engine reassembled and almost ready to install. I also got my eastwood tig 200DC. So far I got to say it's a nice little tig, should do me fine for what I want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb updated album of engine build with engine reassembled and valve/intake painted. Pretty happy how it turned out! Next is reassembly of the clutch then re-mated back with the transmission. This weekend I should be ready to put the engine/trans into the car. I am almost done with the engine bay on clean up but still have a few areas of rust to clean up and get painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 So apparently some more misc items that I didn't realize I need until now... Driver side motor mount as the guy did not give me bolts/mount at all for either side nore did I get exhaust header bolts. So Had to buy new studs/gaskets + I also don't have O2 sensors of which I'll have to buy some as well... So just bought a new driver side engine mount new remote t56 bleed kit 46in's exhaust gaskets with studs and nuts Hopefully they will all arrive by this weekend so I can put the engine in!! can't wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 installed my wiring harness on the engine and found that I'm missing a IAT sensor and my coolant temp sensor broke taking the heads off. On top of that my alternator plug only has 1 wire going to it.. is this normal? Also the oil dipstick does not seems to want to fit at all with JTR headers installed... is there another way to mount it? do I need to bend it to snake through the headers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I went with a Lokar LS dipstick. It's shorter, flexible and cleaner looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Mine was tight with a go ls1. You had to remove the dipstick and install it and the headers simultaneously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I managed to bend it a bit but makes putting the dip stick back in a bit of trouble.. Will eventually probably just do what rebekahsZ did and get the Lokar flexible dip stick. Over all I am just waiting on my drivers motor mount, my IAT sensor and my new coolant temp sensor. I also have new GTO spark plugs wires with aluminum heat shields has mine broke as I was removing them and NGK spark plugs. I'm hoping the motor mount shows up tomorrow and I can actually install the engine/trans in the car. Engine harness is already hooked up to the engine and just needs to be ran to the battery and grounds. Also on my harness I have 2 cables labled cpp term c and cpp term d... Which the guy said is the clutch pedal location sensors? are these needed? is this to make sure that the clutch is pressed in before starting the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Looking at RockAuto, I'm not sure which O2 sensors I need? Do I need the heated ones? or the non heated? I know I just need the upstream ones but it looks like all of them are compatible with upstream/downstream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 I'm late to this thread, but congrats on the progress you've made. Yeah, that dipstick was kind of a PITA. I just bent mine towards the back. I'm using the JTR headers fyi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Looking at RockAuto, I'm not sure which O2 sensors I need? Do I need the heated ones? or the non heated? I know I just need the upstream ones but it looks like all of them are compatible with upstream/downstream. just buy two fronts that match the harness you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Sunny, that's the problem.. they all look like they match.. cept some say heated and some say non heated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Since I finally got my bad dog frame rails in, plus my new floor pans... I took 2 days off to have a 4 day weekend... I will be getting the floor pans in and frame rails added and hopefully have the engine mounted by tuesday... Thankfully I already have the interior gutted and should make getting the floor pans cut out easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 small update... apparently getting sick partially through the floor pan replacement because of inhaled fumes due to my stupid ass not wearing a mask. Either way managed to only get the passenger floor pan/frame rails installed. I still have an area to patch for the front kick panel, but otherwise done. Will start working on drivers side tonight. I have my new sump here, but need to modify the tank to accept it. Will start posting pictures of that when I finally tackle it. So far only managed to cut out a hole where the sump will be welded on and found a crap ton of nasty gunk in the tank... so will do another washing and probably the por15 tank kit. Also since I'm learning how to tig vs my mig knowledge.. it has been a bit slower welding the entire floorpan + frame rails in. Two of the biggest things I can state about tig... ALWAYS HAVE 100% CLEAN METAL EVERYWHERE YOU WELD. Back side, frontside, everywhere needs to have no rust, no tar, no nothing but pure clean metal.. even FINGER grease is enough to cause popping of the metal. So many times have I heard a pop and now my tungsten is ruined... and needs to be reground. Second part... if you aren't comfy you will dip your tungsten! Make sure you are always in a comfortable position that does not cause strain on your head/neck and arms otherwise you won't be steady and you WILL dip your tungsten. These alone have been hard since I'm welding from underneath the car and ugh... all that tar that is almost impossible to remove even from underneath. other than that, one more side to do then it's time to install the engine and route my harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Yeah bro, you're making your life hard trying to TIG anything not absolutely clean. Save that tungsten for finer, more finished work and use the MIG for the floors. Whatever process you are using fully tack the replacement piece in and then connect the tacks while jumping around, letting the metal cool to avoid warpage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Do yourself a favor and also go to LS1tech.com. They are a great resource for all things LS1 and have a fantastic repository of general LS1 swap information. Hybridz is great for Z-LS1 specific questions. All other questions are best left to LS1tech.com. FYI, the O2 sensors are heated. LS1tech.com has a lot of information about which ones to buy and the ones to avoid, issues with slow switching due to header installation, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Naptown, I wish I could just mig the floors in, however I sold my mig many years ago when I swapped from my original Z to my sport bike... Now I wish I hadn't Either way I wanted to learn tig so here I am. After cleaning what I could off with a new wire wheel, I was able to get a much better weld however I still had occasional splatters. Will say tho, a gas lense has been a extremely awesome upgrade! ktm thanks! Yea already registered on ls1tech as thats where I found the guy selling the ls1 I have currently. Agreed they are an amazing resource and quite a few z guys are over there. Will get those ordered as quick as I can, as that is the last part of the engine that I need. Still need to order all the exhaust tubes and O2 bungs and mufflers tho. But waiting for more money to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Lots of progress, good luck and ENJOY THE RIDE. Edited March 10, 2015 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb updated album of engine build with engine reassembled and valve/intake painted. Pretty happy how it turned out! Next is reassembly of the clutch then re-mated back with the transmission. This weekend I should be ready to put the engine/trans into the car. I am almost done with the engine bay on clean up but still have a few areas of rust to clean up and get painted. When purchasing a used engine, the running oil pressure should be checked. The other items to check would be a compression test and leakdown test. Once the cylinder heads are removed, best to have them cleaned, reseat the valves and leak test the cylinder head assemblies. As a minimum, the oil pump should be replaced to ensure good long lasting oil pressure. Then reassemble the engine and use a good synthetic oil and new quality oil filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) rsicard, I saw the engine running and was able to see the oil pressure was normal. Also removed heads and did a full clean up to verify everything was in good shape. You can see in the album what's all been done so far. 240z build album https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd ls1 teardown/rebuild album https://imgur.com/a/OM4Vb Edited March 11, 2015 by CableSrv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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