dexter72 Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I have a couple of questions for the 2jz swap guys who used the z wiring harness for there install. Getting ready to install my 2JZGE-NAT engine in this weekend. How do you wire up the 97 2j alternator to the z harness ??.. Late year 74 260z with the internal regulator mod. Also has a 280z volt gauge installed. Using megasquirt, crank trigger wheel, and edis6 to run the engine. I have been reading about how the 2j alternator has to be hooked up to a charge light. Is that correct??.. Not sure if i keep the internal regulator harness mod. Thanks in advance for the assistance Joe Edited March 4, 2015 by dexter72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) There's 3 wires on the datsun harness IIRC you just have to run it to the same wires on the new alternator. I want to say most newer alternators are internally regulated so having the external voltage regulator delete is the way to go. It's been a while since I have looked, but there should be 4 wires I think, 3 wires from the alternator, 1 thick wire to the starter then to the battery. For the toyota Ig/ign - Ignition - ignition based power signal S - sensing - positive 12 volts straight from battery L - lamp, this is the resisted wire that provides the field I believe. I want to say these letters are stamped on the alternator to show which spade does what, all you have to do is match it up to the datsun wiring harness. On the datsun S - sensing - is yellow or the upper portion of the T-plug L - lamp - is the lower portion of the T-plug black/white Battery is the screw terminal pretty obvious Ig is not present on the datsun I think it just has an earth/ground, I took the ignition signal from the stock coil and routed it to the alternator, just find the ignition wire that triggers the coil and you can trace it back to the closest point to the alternator and steal the signal from there. In my case I just used the wire that usually connects to the coil split that and ran that to the alternator and the other one back into the cabin to trigger my relay box. Edited March 5, 2015 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Looks like Toyota uses an extra switched power wire at the alternator. Not sure why but it's there. Easy enough to add on. Can't remember if the S wire on a Z is switched or constant so be careful with the diagram. Might add a battery drain. L and S should be obvious, IG is the new one. http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Thanks guys, the info i have been reading is a little confusing with most people saying the Toyota alt needs a charge light to operate. Plus it seems like this swap is mostly done using an entire toyota harness. I have had the battery drain ever since i did the internal regulator mod to my harness. I read i have to add something in the wiring to keep that from happening. Will do that after i hopefully get this thing running. I just disconnected a battery cable when i wasn't driving it. Will make a build thread once it runs, And yes i have been taking pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 From my understanding, it isn't that it is needed per say, but it is needed to keep the operating voltage in the right range. People were saying a 1/2-1 volt drop without running the charge light. Strange, I did the internal regulator and ran my car off of a stereo battery with the old motor. With the wiring done the way I posted it charges almost too well almost up to 15 volts (I have a 160amp alternator which may be the reason). Better track down that drain, having the ECU lose charge while the motor is running is not good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 A draw isnt a big deal while the engine is running. The issue will always come up if you leave the car sitting. I will figure it out just have to go through my notes. Cars usually have draws from add on Amplifiers n Speaker boxes, and stereos. A Z doesn't need those things. Lol Have to wire the toyota alt up anyway so will work on both at then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 260Z's have their own special battery drain when converting to the internally regulated alternator. It's out there on the internet somewhere. 280Z's can have a problem also but it's from a different source. I think that both are relay-related though. Always powered after the rewire. If you hear a relay click when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, you have that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 NewZed, The 260z, The Evil Stepchild of the S30's strikes again. Lol Yeah i have the late model 260, Which is basically set up for the 280z. Larger fuel lines than the earlier 260 and Its wired just like a 280z, except of course no efi wiring. Found all that out when i first added 83 zx efi wiring and drivetrain to it. It's still my baby though so its getting 18 year old Japanese technology, instead of the 32 year old tech. It wont know how to act. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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