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My drag wheel/tire set up.


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I thought Id share my current set up with you guys. I wanted something different, not the typical welds or cragers and I also wanted to keep it 4 lug. Milling is required of wheel hub and spacers for the fronts to fit. The Lenso hub is 56.0mm, I had it opened to 62.0mm and the spacer opened to 73.0mm. Next purchase is a set of T3 bolt in camber plates so I can lower the car and increase the strut travel, but this is because I am running non-sectioned strut housings. Something different, I realize it might not be everyone's cup of tea but the information is out there now for anybody else to copy.

 

Rears

235/60/15 M/t ET Streets

XXR 531 15x8 et20

ARP 2.5" M12x1.5 Studs

T3/GC coilovers on non-sectioned struts

Tokico 5-Ways, 10" 225 springs

 

Fronts

24" 15x4.5 ET Fronts

Lenso VPD 15x3.5

1" spacer

ARP 3.0" M12x1.5 Studs (2.5" would be fine)

T3/GC coilovers on non-sectioned struts

Tokico 5-Ways, 10" 225 springs

 

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What Brakes are you running? 16" rims really limit you to a few tires

Silvermine stg 4 kit (mustang) they are barely to big and I refuse to run spacers. I'm thinking about selling the kit and going with TTT so I can fit some 15" wheels.

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Silvermine stg 4 kit (mustang) they are barely to big and I refuse to run spacers. I'm thinking about selling the kit and going with TTT so I can fit some 15" wheels.

I run spacers, but I have 7/16" wheel studs that can pretty much hold anything.

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I'm running a 1.25" spacer adapter that lets me run Weld Draglites over my Wilwood brakes.  Before the spacers and brakes I ran 4.5" backspacing.  Now, to get the wider portion of the wheel's "bell" over the brakes, I combine the 1.25" spacer with a 5.5" backspacing wheel.  That keeps the tire in essentially the same position in the fender but makes room for the brake caliper.  Both the spacer adapter and my wheel studs have 3" long 12mmX1.50 studs, which are essentially 1/2" in diameter.  Whenever I remove the wheel, I check torque on the adapter and it has never loosened. Now, the draglites are another matter-they need regular retorquing every 3 or so passes.  They've never been really loose cause I stay on them, but they always take a little torque with the torque wrench in the pits.  The Draglites are dual pattern 4X4.25 (mustang) and 4X4.5 (Datsun).  I use a 4.25 to 4.5 spacer adapter, so there is a place for all 8 studs to pass into the wheel without any conflicts.  Its a great little compromise that lets me keep my big brakes for road racing and yet run 15" drag tires.  Of course, I'm lower horsepower than you guys by far.

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I run spacers, but I have 7/16" wheel studs that can pretty much hold anything.

I don't really have a problem with the engineering side of it but I often switch from street to track wheels. And I don't want long lug nuts sticking out.

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If you like skinnies for the street (or even a drag car for that matter), it's hard to beat the standard "165 metric radials" for fronts on a 4 1/2" wheel. I've run this combo in my Fox body for years and is much cheaper than any of the M/T race/street tire offerings or just about anyone else. It's really hard to tell any difference in the 4 1/2" wheel vs. a 3 1/2" visually and they fit well and handle OK. Take that with a grain of salt since I like going straight 660 feet at a time and really don't care about corner carving, which you wouldn't do with this setup anyway. I guess the best wording is that they are "safe" for the street and don't offer much in the way of surprises, the car certainly feels better on the road with the slightly wider wheel/contact patch.

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If you like skinnies for the street (or even a drag car for that matter), it's hard to beat the standard "165 metric radials" for fronts on a 4 1/2" wheel. I've run this combo in my Fox body for years and is much cheaper than any of the M/T race/street tire offerings or just about anyone else. It's really hard to tell any difference in the 4 1/2" wheel vs. a 3 1/2" visually and they fit well and handle OK. Take that with a grain of salt since I like going straight 660 feet at a time and really don't care about corner carving, which you wouldn't do with this setup anyway. I guess the best wording is that they are "safe" for the street and don't offer much in the way of surprises, the car certainly feels better on the road with the slightly wider wheel/contact patch.

What are those speed rated to?

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Just curious, Infidel, do  you drive the 2 hours to the track with those Front Runners on?  I have a pair, and the tread surface is like paper thin.  They are currently on my landspeed wheels since ECTA and SCTA allow them, but I run MT Sportsman's on my drag setup just so I can drive to the track on them.  I'd be afraid to run over a ladybug with my Front Runners.

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Just curious, Infidel, do  you drive the 2 hours to the track with those Front Runners on?  I have a pair, and the tread surface is like paper thin.  They are currently on my landspeed wheels since ECTA and SCTA allow them, but I run MT Sportsman's on my drag setup just so I can drive to the track on them.  I'd be afraid to run over a ladybug with my Front Runners.

I got about 15k miles out of mine. Maybe more, I honestly can't remember when I last replaced them.

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