CX Racing kit LY6 TR6060 build

[Marks260z]

Greensboro here. Brakes almost done. Pull old drive train next and prep engine area.

[crapforum]

Got the passenger side header on and the wiring done. Man the passenger header was a HUGE pain to get in, you have to remove the starter to get it on, but cant get the starter back on when the headers bolted down. I had to jerk the header up in this weird angle to be able to squeeze the starter in and then push the header back down to bolt it all up.

 

 

All the pinks get tied together to IGN and the purple wire is to the starter solenoid.

 

 

Working on the crossmember now, drilled the holes too low, need them way up high, also seems the tr6060 rubber mount hits the bolts for the side tabs on the crossmember, may need to modify it.

[crapforum]

So that low mount alternator kit does work just fine with the truck setup, just barely enough room. If the engine shakes to much I may have to rotate the bracket so the positive lead doesn't hit the frame.

 

And with the belt on, it is a Goodyear 4060547 belt:

 

[trackzpeed]

Any concerns about the Z cross member carrying the entire load through the motor mounts?. The cx kit has gained more of my interest with your build (I really like the idea of keeping my LS1 low mount alternator and kit exhaust already completed) and parts quality reports you have given but I drive the piss out of my stuff on the track and have had second thoughts on the mounts ( how they tie into the Z, not the mounts themselves). Keep up the great work and thanks again for the updates. Enjoying your build.

[crapforum]

Any concerns about the Z cross member carrying the entire load through the motor mounts?. The cx kit has gained more of my interest with your build (I really like the idea of keeping my LS1 low mount alternator and kit exhaust already completed) and parts quality reports you have given but I drive the piss out of my stuff on the track and have had second thoughts on the mounts ( how they tie into the Z, not the mounts themselves). Keep up the great work and thanks again for the updates. Enjoying your build.

 

I haven't been worried about it yet, to me the cross member and motor mounts look beefier than anything else on the car lol. 

On another note I went about trying to get the tranny bolted in. I sloted the tranny cross member to fit the TR6060 mount, but it seems I need to slot it in the opposite direction then what it did shown below:

 

 

Also seems the stock shifter's groove fits exactly into the 240z's shifter hole.... May have it hard mounted like this:

 

 

Cut up all the factory shifter's mounting feet and rod and when placed in the car it didn't look like I'd ever get it to work, if I hardmount the shifter like above I only have to worry about getting the rod that goes from shifter to tranny the right length.

 

 

Also noticed now that with the tranny jacked up as high as it will go in the tunnel the driveshaft is about 2 inches below being centered with the rear diff. Can't jack the tranny any higher up because the bump on top the TR6060 that the remote shifter linkage comes out of contacts the bracing in the tranny tunnel. Seems if you flatten it some you can get a more ideal driveshaft angle, I'll wait till I drive the car to see if it causes an issue, don't feel like pulling the tranny and beating the crap out of the tunnel just yet 

[crapforum]

This is the part in contact with the tranny tunnel bracing:

 

[trackzpeed]

Good info thanks.  I've got the T56...so I don't believe I will run into the height problem???  I read on the a hybrid thread that shaft angles are pretty critical to reduce/control vibrations.  You may want to get the solved before you need to do it twice...  Thanks for updates. 

[trackzpeed]

Found the thread I referring to

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121825-driveline-vibration-questions/

[crapforum]

Good info thanks.  I've got the T56...so I don't believe I will run into the height problem???  I read on the a hybrid thread that shaft angles are pretty critical to reduce/control vibrations.  You may want to get the solved before you need to do it twice...  Thanks for updates. 

 

Yep T56 will not have any of these issues, magnum should also not have the issues. Thanks for the link, it seems that the distance the driveshaft falls below or under the diff does not matter, but instead that they are both parallel. That said I don't think I will need to worry about clearancing the tranny tunnel just adjusting the diff's angle.

[crapforum]

Car is almost there! Got the shifter linkage cut and tranny crossmember slotted again. Now everything lines up, still need to weld the shifter linkage though.

Finally found the hose that fits the upper if your using a truck water pump (part E 71751 from advance auto), got all miscellaneous hoses hooked up except the fresh air for PVC and the steam line at the radiator.

Got 95% of the wiring done, and a little mounting plate for the ECM bolted in where the old IGN coil was. Have a fuse block and relays that will also bolt to this plate, they pull power from the alternator.

Had my universal electric fan left from my old Camaro and what do you know it fits! Just had to cut some aluminum mounting tabs to bolt it to radiator.

Hooked up the power to the car and all seems well, the original Datsun stuff works and the motor turns with the key.

Tranny cooler is also in for good.

MAF is in place and wired up, used a 4" to 3.75" silicone elbow and it fits perfect.

Also had HP Tuners get delivered so once I wire up the OBD2 port I can flash the ECM.

Now awaiting clutch line adapters so I can bleed the clutch before bolting in the tranny. After that I need to figure out the fuel system.

 

Edited April 26, 2015 by crapforum

[trackzpeed]

Great progress ! Are using the stock radiator ? Havve you tried out the figment of the exhaust yet? I need to get my arse in gear. I sold my Z motor this past week and will deliver it this coming weekend. Time to put or shut up for me..... Need to make a swap kit decision and get er done. Thanks for updates as always.

[crapforum]

Yep stock radiator, it is 3 row though which I thought came in the 280z only. Haven't tried mocking up the rest of the exhaust because I wanted to get the tranny in its permanent place first, but I have high confidence it will fit like a glove. Got the computer programmed yesterday, had to add wires to the ECM for the 2 serial data lines and the fan relay (truck came with manual fan so no wires from factory). Simple tune for now since I'm learning: removed VATS, updated injector table to match the LS3 injectors, enabled the electric fans, and changed the cam VVT phaser tables. Gonna drop the gas tank this week to see what I can do with it, if it turns out to be nasty inside and a nightmare to add the camaro sending unit to I will buy a  local for sale factory fuel injected tank.

[Richard Oben]

So it all begs the question, was the CX kit good for you?  I know using the truck engine and the non T56 handed you a few challenges, but would you do it again?  I have my car and the donor is apart.  So it is close to time for me to decide.  Thanks for a great job posting and taking pics.  Well done, Richard. 

[crapforum]

So it all begs the question, was the CX kit good for you?  I know using the truck engine and the non T56 handed you a few challenges, but would you do it again?  I have my car and the donor is apart.  So it is close to time for me to decide.  Thanks for a great job posting and taking pics.  Well done, Richard. 

 

The kit has been good to me, I have no regrets. Having some real headers and nicely done exhaust (with vbands so it will never leak) is what won me over, I know that I will never have to worry about the exhaust anytime in the future. The crossmember was easy to modify for the TR6060; if I had a T56 this kit would have made things a breeze. Only thing is that the kit was short a few bolts, not too big a deal but still something.

 

Finally tracked down the wires for the electric fuel pump in the cabin, have a relay on the way to attach it to.

Mounted and wired the relay for the fan and IGN circuit and tested everything, all wiring under the hood is now complete!

Mounted the truck electric pedal, it is a horrible pedal for this application, the shape was very off for fitment and since its plastic I can't chop it up to make it perfect. I got it mounted in a usable position, but its not ideal. Pictures to come tomorrow.

Dropped the tank, examined it for mounting the camaro sending unit, will post pics of my plan tomorrow as well.

Trying to figure out how to run my fuel line now, seems the stock line will be restrictive.

[Richard Oben]

I am pretty sure no one follows the book exactly.  In your case the 6060 is/was an issue.   For us, the 04 GTO from the donor is going to have a shifter issue and maybe an alternator issue.  The CX kit is really pulling me in with the Exhaust being a big pull.  Really want to hear your opinion on the fit of the rest of the it and the sound; is it too loud will be a question too.  Thanks for the info.  Richard. 

[crapforum]

I am pretty sure no one follows the book exactly.  In your case the 6060 is/was an issue.   For us, the 04 GTO from the donor is going to have a shifter issue and maybe an alternator issue.  The CX kit is really pulling me in with the Exhaust being a big pull.  Really want to hear your opinion on the fit of the rest of the it and the sound; is it too loud will be a question too.  Thanks for the info.  Richard. 

 

I'll post a video of it running for the sound as soon as its done, should be only a couple more weeks.

 

Driveshaft is ordered and on the way

Clutch line adapters also on the way, this little thing cost way to much:

Here is my gas pedal for now ideally it would be lower to the floor:

 

Speedhut gauges should be arriving soon for the Tach and Speedo

Edited April 29, 2015 by crapforum

[RebekahsZ]

A GTO pedal is straight. Wonder if you could swap it?

[crapforum]

A GTO pedal is straight. Wonder if you could swap it?

 

Yep any straight or metal pedal would work very well. Could even chop the datsun pedal off and weld it to a metal pedal. Wiring is officially done now, engine bay looks a bit cleaner now.

I hooked the fuel pump relay up near the fuse box in the car since that is where the fuel pump wiring went and was able to utilize the stock fuse:

Engine bay looking cleaner:

 

I have been holding off buying an air filter because I was hoping I could find one with a 4" pipe as a base instead of just a rubber part to slip over a 4" pipe. My MAF will only take a 4" pipe clamped into it:

 

Now just need to figure out how where I want to hook the steam line and PVC clean air port into. Also need to do something about the oil fill tube on the valve cover, it is too tall since it came from a truck and it doesn't rotate it seems.

*EDIT* the oil filler does rotate, just had to put like 50lbs of force on it, had dried and caked oil residue gluing it in place. Cleaned that up and it rotates with little force.

Edited May 2, 2015 by crapforum

[Richard Oben]

Looks good.  One observation from a long time EFI guy.  NEVER use worm clamps on High Pressure EFI and the Glass filter mounted is not rated for 40 PSI either.  Not trying to be the PC police but I would hate for all the work to go up in flames.  Richard. 

[crapforum]

Looks good.  One observation from a long time EFI guy.  NEVER use worm clamps on High Pressure EFI and the Glass filter mounted is not rated for 40 PSI either.  Not trying to be the PC police but I would hate for all the work to go up in flames.  Richard. 

 

Yeah those are remnants of the old fuel system, I have since ripped them out. Fuel line I'm using is 1/2" aluminum with AN fittings.

Here is my current issue:

As you can see the fifth gen camaro pump is much to short to fit the datsun tank well, the fourth gen would have been a much better choice. The angle of the picture is a little deceiving, the pump is to tall to fit into the shallower part of the tank when compressed

I plan to cut a valley into the tank like this:

Would cut pretty deep into the tank though, probably lose 3-4 gallons of capacity, maybe if I could find or make a steel box I could just cut out a square from the top to reccess the pump into.

Also if there was some way to extend the pump pickup deeper.

 

Also silly me the rubber piece on the end of the MAF that I thought I needed to slide a tube into actually can be pulled off to reveal just a plastic pipe to hook a filter right on.

 

I took the trucks old fresh air pcv tube and cut it a little, drilled my silicone elbow, and shoved it in really tight. Looks to be airtight, will add some sealant if not:

 

Found this on Ebay to address the steam vent issue, steam line will go into this T on the top radiator hose:

Says its 38mm hose with a 1/8th npt hole that I can put a barb on. Was $14

Edited May 2, 2015 by crapforum