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The OReilly site will pull up some options for you - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Fuel+Pump/C0401/C0025.oap?year=1983&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209428&redirectkeyword=fuel+pump

 

I've had the Airtex E8312 in my car for about 40,000 miles.  No issues.Just use the rubber wisely to isolate it from any metal, for noise avoidance.

 

 

Didn't really look at your picture.  Maybe you want an internal pump. 

 

By the way, there's something odd about your pictures, they won't expand when clicked on.  Maybe they're too big.

Edited by NewZed
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I just pm'ed Tony D on this -- man, there are a few threads talking about the heat and vapor causing cavitation, etc., especially when fuel level is low. These questions have me really questioning my set up; no more stock tank, fuel cell, new feed and return rigid 3/8 inch lines, a rollover vent... The pressure I'll need is 40psi constant for the turbo L28? So the inline pump I want has to deliver enough volume and pressure, and then needs to be regulated at 40... How to plumb this? Where is the regulator? Do I need a charcoal cannister? Cavitation issues worry me, pressure loss worries me, I'm a regular cluster__ of questions now!post-44185-0-81617100-1428034351_thumb.jpg

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Makes sense. Hopefully this fuel cell from Jegs will allow this option easily.... Thanks for the reply. 1) Submersible/in tank pump, 2) filter 3) regulator set at 40psi 4) connect to rail inlet 5) return from rail to tank

Any other items in between I'm not factoring in? Check valves anywhere?

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I think I screwed up; didn't like the cells with pump prices - damn! Pricey; thought I could purchase pump and filter and save @ $400... But the whole cavitation and overheating issue is something I was unaware of. So, now I toss the fuel cell and start searching for an all-in-one unit.

Besides, I learned the single wall aluminum cell I was intending to use wasn't sufficient for the application; mounted where stock tank was, exposed, should have a rubber bladder for safety.

Thanks for the feedback. Will post replacement system here when I find one. Submersible in-tank pump is the only way to go for these turbo conversions, is what I'm thinking.post-44185-0-18265300-1428095003_thumb.jpg

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"System".  Of external fuel pump.  1983 Turbo cars used an external fuel pump.  It doesn't need internal/submersible.  External is sufficient.  If you want submersible for other reasons, that's something else.  But it's not the only way to go.

 

Good luck.  Read the Surge Tank thread in this same sub-forum.

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New Zed: I guess I couldn't find what I was looking for until you told me to search in this sub-category...

That was good reading! I like the BCBroncos solution; small little oil-filter-type swirl tank. But I also like the drilling out/tapping my aluminum fuel cell for an in tank pump -- nobody posted anything after in that 2011 thread.post-44185-0-50014500-1428111265_thumb.jpg

I'll go back and save some images to post now (BCBroncos and the other in-tank)

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post-44185-0-97283200-1428111428_thumb.jpg

This is quite the simple solution, but still requires a whole lot of joints and two pumps (potential for leakage, additional pump...)

I think I want to just tap my rci fuel cell and install this:

post-44185-0-23785600-1428111556_thumb.jpg

Walbro 255

Then regulate pressure, filter, hook up to my new 3/8 feed and come back in my new 3/8 return. That sound best to you New Zed?

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Alright - thanks for the lead New Zed; I'm not wanting to reinvent what I've done so far. It's just the boiling of fuel / cavitation problems I read about troubled me. The submersible/in-tank pump seemed to solve that.

I'll read about the Surge Tank

I guess maybe I just didn't see it, but what problem are you trying to solve with this fuel system?  Is this a mostly stock turbo engine swap that only requires stock-like fuel flow, or is it something else that requires more?  

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The fuel cell not being tapped for an in-tank pump was okay with me until i read about overheating fuel, cavitation etc. (we arent running a super high performance motor -- pretty much a stock set up)

Reading about how to overcome these potential problems brought me to two options:

1) the external set up; low pressure pump, swirl/surge tank, high pressure pump, reulator, return in minimum 3/8 inch line

Or

2) drill out fuel cell for Walbro 255 with tray in-tank pump, filter and regulate externally continuing in 3/8 inch supply to inlet on rail, return to cell in 3/8 inch

If the second schematic sounds ideal, i want to do it (actually, i ordered the Walbro last night in anticipation). Looking for the easiest to maintain and troubleshoot system. I already plumbed the new rigid 3/8 inch lines through the tunnel and hung the cell - this pump and return question is really a "What is best to do now?" Query.

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Your main concern with an unbaffled 240Z tank should be fuel starvation on corners.  If the driver plans to drift it might be an issue.  With a turbo engine it's an important issue.  Proper baffling or the surge tank will solve that.

 

Submersed pumps tend to be quieter than external.  Might be nice.

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Your main concern with an unbaffled 240Z tank should be fuel starvation on corners.  If the driver plans to drift it might be an issue.  With a turbo engine it's an important issue.  Proper baffling or the surge tank will solve that.

 

Submersed pumps tend to be quieter than external.  Might be nice.

^^^^What NewZed said ^^^^

 

The cavitation issues really mostly start cropping up when you start trying to flow a LOT more fuel than stock.  A single Walbro likely won't have much trouble as long as the tank is properly vented so it doesn't pull a vacuum, and you aren't doing anything dumb like trying to feed it through a 1/4" fuel line or something.

 

If you can get an in-tank setup for your fuel cell then that likely won't hurt anything - just be sure it has some sort of baffling around it as NewZed suggested.

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