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LS clutch master


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Most popular is 7/8". Be sure to cut off the metric nut from your Datsun clevis and spot weld an SAE nut on it to fit the push rod that comes with the master. It is a bit longer than the Datsun push rod and you need that longer length. I swapped the rod and clevis from the Datsun master onto the Tilton or Wilwood master and it is too short. That requires me to use a 1" master to have the same clutch disengagement. And it is a little stiff. Be sure to relax all stop nut adjusters for clutch travel-failure to do this made bleeding my clutch a real bear (not the first word that came to mind).

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You aren't welding the threaded rod, you will be modifying the clevis that screws on the rod to join it to the pedal assembly. There's a nut on it. You swap the nut from metric to SAE. No modification to the rod. You will understand when the parts are in your hand.

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RebekahsZ you don't have to modify it at all..

 

I took the threaded rod out of my old clutch master and put it in my new tilton and the threaded part matched up perfectly with the pedal. It was pretty easy to swap the rods out.

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Ok, I did the same thing as you and my Datsun rod is just a tad too short-even adjusted to the max. Probably just subtle differences in clearances from car to car. Nothing worse than having a rod that is just a tad too short!

Edited by RebekahsZ
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My firewall flexes a lot. Haven't seen anybody else on hybridz need bracing but it really helped me. This is a 1" Tilton. I like it over the Wilwood because of the bosses for my braces and for the bleeder screw. The Wilwood version looks slicker but lacks these features. For the Wilwood you need an NPT to AN adapter. For the Tilton you need a female to male AN adapter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I used a Tilton 75-875U clutch master cylinder and the I replaced the rod and clevis from my old Datsun unit for the Tilton.  I replaced the female side of the GM disconnect located in the Bell housing with a Rus-640281 from Summit Racing.  Rus-655090 is the clutch line that I used because of the 90 degree connection at the master cylinder.  Since I was there I also installed a remote bleeder line to make the bleeding process easier.  I believe it was a Quarter Master Bleed kit#710105 also from Summit Racing.

 
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I'm getting ready to install my Tilton 75-875U this week so I guess I'll be running into the same issue. My question is (and I'm a noob) from what it sounds like the Tilton rod is a little too short. I did some quick searching and have seen different length clevis forks. Would a slightly longer clevis do the trick?

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If I recall, the Tilton rod is LONGER than the Datsun rod. But the aftermarket clevises tend to be el-cheapo in construction. So, change the nut in the Datsun clevis to put the nice Datsun clevis on the longer Tilton rod. It requires a dremel tool to cut the weld that retains the metric nut to the clevis and a spot weld to affix the SAE nut.

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I had an aftermarket clutch M/C, the rod is actually a little shorter. On the Tilton M/C with the clevis extended to the end I still need 1/8". I just held the clevis to the end of the rod. So if the aftermarket clevis is crap, what would you guys do? I'd like to avoid welding if I can.

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It might not be crap, my Nissan version just looked better made. If both rods are too short for you, you're gonna have to pay a welder. Shouldn't be expensive. Drop in, suck up and you'll be out of there in 15 minutes take a twenty and if you are really good at sucking up, you may still have it in your pocket driving home.

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That's great news. I will probably get a longer one too.

 

I got up early this morning to make a little progress on my bellhousing swap. Since all the hydraulic fluid had already run down my inner fender (only joking a little), I went ahead and worked on swapping to the longer rod. I had a defective Wilwood master laying around and I stole the longer rod off of it. This a job where you really wonder why God didnt create man with three hands! Got the snap ring out and swapped rods. Went over to my Porta-Band and grinder and cut the metric nut off the Datsun clevis. I have a short day at work and will run by the hardware store to get some extra fine thread nuts to fit the rod, then it's over to the welder for a couple of spot tig-welds. Photo shows the longer rod. I was on the last thread on the Datsun rod, and Im expecting to have to do some adjusting with the new bellhousing. It is worth noting that while the Datsun rod had flats on it for a 4mm open end wrench to assist with adjustments, the Wilwood pushrod does not. So I will be putting a couple jam nuts on the rod to take the place of the flats.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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