socorob Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 First off I'm not sure if it's my clutch or throw out bearing that's my issue. Once in a while on a hard high RPM shift, it is like the clutch went out. It will sit there and I can Rev it in gear and it's like I have the clutch pedal pushed in when i don't. . I sit there for just a couple seconds and then it works fine again and won't happen again for a few weeks. I got my engine and t56 pullout all together with 42,000 miles on it, and only separated the 2 to put a speed bleeder cable on it. I've only put about 2k on the car since I got it running. I don't know if this is a symt ok m of the slave cylinder going out or clutch or throw out bearing. If I do have to rear it apart, I will replace everything so I won't have to worry about it for a while. Is it possible to drop just the trans with Johns cars mounts without pulling the engine? And what's a good streetable performance clutch? This car is mainly a street car that will see only a couple events a year maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Could be the clutch master cylinder. Certainly sound like something in the hydraulics. I am going with a LS6 clutch with aluminum flywheel, but the car is far from running so I can't offer any real feedback. From research it sounded like a good performance upgrade with good drive ability. My research also told me that asking which clutch you like is asking someone if they like Ford or Chevy. Seems to be alot of blind brand loyalty out there. And for the record, I've never owned a Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I went thru 3 new clutch masters before I got one that wasn't bad. Both Tilton and Wilwood. To test your hydraulics, get an AN3 plug or cap from Summit and plug the master. Bench bleed it first. The pedal should be consistently hard. And it should not bleed down with constant pressure on the pedal. I too had an intermittent problem, but it was obvious that I had a problem once I plugged it. Try hard constant pressure and light constant pressure. If the pedal descends slowly, ya got a bad master cylinder. I run a Mantic ER2 from Eastcoast Superchargers in North Carolina. It's an Australian clutch-I bought the whole kit for like $1200. It has 150 clutch drops at 2500-4500 rpm. I have lifted the front tires a few times (planets were in alignment), street drive smoothly and auto cross and HPDE. I just had it apart and it looked great. Only issue is occasional chatter when daily driving (every blue moon) and you need to take a little off the heads of your ARP flywheel bolts with a grinder-it was designed around stock bolts which are a little thinner at the head. The single clutch disc is ceramic on the flywheel side and organic on the pressure plate side. It is rated at 700 hp and I only put 400 hp to it. Clutch feel is light. I went single disc to keep life simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Keith, The problem you describe sounds like a slave cylinder. I had this problem with my Corvette several times. It feels like the clutch is engaged but your foot is not on the clutch pedal. I took the car to GM since it was under warranty twice for the same issue, they claim is debris entering the hydraulics and replaced all of my hydraulics everytime. Makes no sense to me how debris can enter a clsoes system but that's what I was told. Others say it is the fluid being cooked and breaking down since my headers were really close to the clutch hydraulics. I just started bleding the system when I had the problem and it would go away without having to replace anything. As for clutch I'm using the McLeod RST twin disk. It is supposed to be very street friewndly and holds pleanty of power for my application. TheZguy just sold his barely used RXT twin disk for a good price, too bad you did not snag that one. He said that clutch worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 It's only done it 4-5 times since December and in about 2000 miles. I'll try the fluid thing. It did look a little dirty when I checked it before the event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 The slave internal to the bellhousing gets disc dust contamination in the fluid very quickly. Bleed it to exchange fluid at least annually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Well there is your problem, I used to bleed mine every 3 to 6 months depending on mileage in order to stop it from sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Alainburon-go back to the original post. My clutch is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Sorry man, for some unknown reason I thought your were having the same problem as socorob. My apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 No sweat-I bet I need you before the cock crows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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