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Everything posted by JoeK

  1. That's a big milestone for sure. It's a great feeling and will surely lead to enjoyable new aspects of the build. Looking forward to continuing to follow along.
  2. Techno Toy Tuning is a dealer and they are well known for good customer service
  3. My. Motor and trans mounts are rubber, and all my suspension is poly. So we'll see how that feels, someday...
  4. Its feeling like what I'll be doing is a single 3". Since my collectors are 2 1/2", I'll run 2 1/2" pipe to the Y, which will be just shy of the differential. 3" out of the Y, then into a 3" in 3" out muffler. Thinking it'll be the biggest Spintech I can fit in the space where the old muffler sat. I'm doing away with the front differential cross-member, so can tuck a little higher. The lowest part of the exhaust should be closer to centered on the wheels, which will give me some peace of mind going over speed bumps. Seems like going with a single will be less fab and less parts, while still getting the performance I want. I'm still on the fence regarding the universal cats, but leaning away from them. Its always something I could add in if i felt like it. Spintech also makes hangers that are pretty simple with rubber isolators. I'm hoping I might be able use some of the existing exhaust mount points.
  5. Upcoming on my build is a new exhaust. I’m planning on a simple 2 1/2” dual set up. I’ve got JCI headers, that a have a 2 1/2” collector, that I’ve welded a v-band to, so that’s my starting point. So far I’ve purchased a Summit aluminized universal kit, which looks like it has way more tubing than I’ll ever need. I also have a x-pipe, and a Flowmaster double 2 1/2” inlet, single 3” outlet muffler. The tubing that comes in the kit has flared ends, so where possible I intend to use the slip joint and weld around rather than use clamps. I’ve never built an exhaust, let alone done pie cuts or the like but suspect I’ll need to do some in order keep it tucked up tight. Tools I’ve got, and welding skills are marginal but I’ve got lots of material. Some have said that adding universal cats can cut down on the raspy sound that you hear often on LS motors. These are pretty inexpensive, but I wonder if it truly makes a difference. And are cheap ones maybe even fire hazards. Another thing I don’t see too often is flex pipes. I know CX Racing includes them on their kit, but I think of all the custom exhausts I’ve seen on S30’s maybe only 1 has had flex pipes. Is this no longer considered needed? And also hangers. What are people using? I never see them in pictures. I’m figuring very few are needed. Maybe just some near the diff, and something to carry the weight of the muffler. I bought some hangers on Summit, only end up with hangers with a 1/2” dia. rod that looks strong enoug the hang the whole car from. If any body has any pictures of where they hung their exhaust, and/or what they hung it with, that would be appreciated. Looking for any and all comments and advice people may have. Thanks for your time...
  6. Yes, the trans mount also uses a rubber mount. At least for the T56 for sure, but probably the auto as well.
  7. The Johns Cars (JCI) kit uses stock rubber mounts. Small block Chevy on one side, and the stock LS1 Camaro mount and clamshell on the other. I don’t know about any others.
  8. Thanks for all the great advice so far. My old school tendencies had me thinking dual all the way back was the way to go, but it looks like I'll be returning some parts to Summit.
  9. JoeK

    Gauges gone nuts

    Glad you got it working. Loose or funky grounds are the most common electrical problem.
  10. JoeK

    Gauges gone nuts

    Check your wiring pathways. Look for abraided wires, or wires that are near any moving parts. You could have worn some insulation off a wire and are getting intermittent grounds.
  11. As usual with this build, looks great. What will you do for the control arm mounts in the front? The original piece also held the front of the long nose diff, but also seemed to tie the left and right together. Now you've also got a brace across on that front mount. I haven't done the diff alignment yet on mine, but it currently looks like the pinion flange will hit the original cross brace.
  12. Yeah, I rushed my dash wiring, and now thinking I’ll likely spend what time I can get this weekend redoing it.
  13. Hi All, I thought I might as well start a build thread at some point. I've been lurking for a couple years and posting a few questions and comments here and there. I bought my '71 Z on Labor Day weekend, 2013. It came with an uncompleted RB25 swap in it. When I bought the car I was looking for a 240z to swap an LS1 into, but this looked like a great deal so I picked it. I thought I would complete that, but gave it some thought and decided I really wanted the V8 rumble and torque without having to figure out turbo technology or spend too much time on a dyno figuring out how to get what I wanted, which was a V8 anyway. So pulled that swap and sold it for what I bought the whole car for. Since then I've completely disassembled the car and put it on a homemade rotisserie. I've replaced some rusty panels, most notably the battery area and part of the firewall, one of the tool boxes, and part of the rear tray. The floors were a little beat up but pretty solid overall so I installed Bad Dog front and rear frame rails. Fabricated a mount system for a F-Body gas tank, which has it's own thread. I stripped the underside of the car to bare metal and am in the process of coating that now. I've been collecting parts for a while as well. I picked up a '98 LS1 with about 87k on it. I have the JCI mounts and headers. A nice Griffin 4 row aluminum radiator. A MN12 from a GTO that has bad 3-4 synchro that I'll rebuild. I'm also going with the TTT R230 rear end setup. Waiting on those parts to arrive in the mail any day now, along with an AZC coilover set. Already have the r230 and all associated parts out of a Z32TT. At this point, I'm not too far off from dropping the car back on the ground. I'm trying to do all that I can while it is up in the air but not sure how far I can go on the suspension while it's on it's side. Maybe the control arms and diff mount, potentially the coilovers but I'm not sure I can weld I the camber plates with the car so high up on the rotisserie. Definitely want to get the brake lines and fuel lines back in first. As for the cars intended purpose. It will be primarily a street car. I'll find some time for autoxing, but I don't care about being competitive so I'll just run in whatever class they let me. But for me it's more about the build than the completion. Something to do with the spare time I don't even have. As my signature points out, this car will get done when it gets done, and not a minute sooner.
  14. Still plugging away at this. Took some time off to waste a bunch of time playing Call of Duty but back at the car again. Scratched a couple bald spots getting the car wired but it’s in and tested. Finishing that hopefully this weekend. Picked up my new driveshaft this afternoon, checked it for fit and found I’ll need to remove that ashtray recess in the tunnel.
  15. Has anybody tried these flares yet? These look like the same as the ones as the that Japan Garage was selling, but since they are no longer, I need a new source. http://www.fiberglassmafia.com/store/p9/Wide_ZG_Fender_Flares.html
  16. JoeK

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    Cool. I guess it's just another of those little differences between the different years. My car is a late '71. The squirrel cage fit just exactly with no trimming, though I did have to elongate the mounting holes slightly. As far as the wiring, my original fan motor has 2 wires with individual tabs, that I believe went to the housing.the plug from the housing has a 6 wire plug on the end.
  17. JoeK

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    Anybody know where to get the proper electrical plug for that fan? That fan right into my housing, no trimming. But need the plug to wire it up. Thanks, Joe
  18. Can someone tell if the turn signals are supposed to work with the key in the off or lock position?
  19. JoeK

    List of S30 mods

    If you want build your own harness with labeled wire for less than the cost of a Painless kit, buy an EZWire kit and cut off the fuse block. EZ kit is good quality wire but less than half the cost of Painless. I think the whole EZ kit is nice, but I think the instructions blow.
  20. Thanks. I’m assuming it doesn’t matter if the car is running.
  21. Yeah, I'm far from the expert on the subject but from the googling I did it seemed like the big difference between the 2 was gains in low end torque with long tubes. And it is all about the torque isn't it, especially when racing
  22. I ordered a rebuilt booster from Rockauto also, showed up 2 days later. Might cancel from your original seller, if they can't produce the darn thing.
  23. JoeK

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Custom is never cheap. But Wilwood rotor discs aren't what I'd call astronomical. I have a pair I bought to do this exact thing, I think they were like $50 each. But yes, the cost of the custom hats made me go another route, which was Odyssey rotors. Even so, I had a hard time finding a machinist who would even touch the job of modifying stock car parts. They were all concerned about liability. If someone made a custom run, it'd be better priced. Maybe even reasonable. I'd be in for a set too. I've got a pair of Wilwood discs just taking up space currently.
  24. JoeK

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Might be better to have some custom rotor hats made. The hats never wear out and when your rotors are worn you just order new ones from Summit or wherever.
  25. Seems like those starting instructions may still be relevant for the new power pack . And the seat covers look good too. Making me rethink buying new seats.