kerrys914 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Here is my plan:FallSand car down with 80grit to remove old respraySand down to metal where filler will be neededApply filler where I can and get as close to flat as possible in this stageApply epoxy primer on car (2 coats) over whole carLet car sit for the winter and work under it on the suspension until it warms upSpringSand epoxy primer with 120gritApply polyester primer 2-3 coatsGuide coat the whole carSand with 220gritApply light weight fillerGuide coat specific areasSand with 320gritAdd fillerGuide coat specific areasSand with 400 gritTake it to a paint shop to add base coat and clear... Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 If you do a good job you can basically skip all those filler steps at the end and go straight to sealer/base. Most of the "hard lifting" body work should happen before the epoxy, then you get two chances to clean up small blemishes. I also wet sanded the 400 before sealer/base...made life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 The nice thing about epoxy is you can use filler on it. Most of the newer primers do not let you put filler on them. So you need to know what paint you can get before you make that choice (EPA has state specific laws). Have a talk with your local paint supply. As a side note, if you knock out the big stuff before primer, you can build the primer up got get the little stuff as is low spots, not dents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Agreed. Just pointing out that if care is taken beforehand, most of the bodywork could be sorted before epoxy and all the glaze filler steps can be avoided after poly primer surfacer. Just did the following with my car: Down to metal. Bodywork. Epoxy - guidecoat - three small filler spots. Poly primer surfacer - guidecoat - 400 wet sand. Off to a professional shop for sealer/base/clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerrys914 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Thanks guys. I guess I'll guide coat my epoxy to see the low/high spots and fix them. I thought I ready I shouldn't sand too much of the epoxy off as it would just be a waste of money and I should save the sanding for the poly. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Hamilton Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 (edited) Best way is to do all your filler work over the epoxy. Filler over bare metal absorbs moisture and doesn't adhere as good as epoxy to bare metal then filler over epoxy. I do this for a living and every Restoration Shop I know of epoxies then does any filler work over the epoxy. Collision repair shops almost never do it this way due to the extra time involved but if it's something you care about it's worth the effort. Here is a great forum for learning about body and paint work. There are a lot of top pro's that post here and very good advice. Check it out. http://www.spiuserforum.com/ Edited October 3, 2015 by Chris_Hamilton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerrys914 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Sweet!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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