Chris_Hamilton

Looking for a turbo T5 bellhousing, Thanks, Chris

I've got one. I'll take some pics today and email you.

Sorry again for the delay in posting. I have had some issues. I thought that I would make these in stainless, but I failed to take into account how easily stainless work hardens. If I had dies and a press this would not be a real problem but since I'm hammer forming them trying to shrink the stainless around the form was an issue. So I'm in the process of doing a run of 25 sets in steel and then will send them out to a high quality chrome plating company in Richmond VA. This has morphed into more work than I imagined as I originally only planned to make a few at a time. So far I've made 12 sets and have 13 to go. Then I have to weld the two halves of each ring together. When I complete them I'll do some finish work on each set to ensure they are nice and straight so that the chrome plating looks nice. After I have them prepped Owner of the plating shop says it'll be a 2-3 week turnaround depending on how busy he is. Hopefully some of you will still want a set when I get them done. I'll post some pics of what I'm doing soon.

Soon.

PM sent.

Looking for a turbo distributor for a megasquirt conversion. Thanks, Chris

My first Z was an early 260. IMO they are much better looking than a 280 with the huge ugly Fed bumpers. Only real bad thing about that car was the flat top carburetors and the massive vapor lock that would happen all the time. Being I was sixteen and this was 1988 (way before the internet) I had no clue that I could have swapped 240 carbs into the car and cured the vapor lock. But looks wise an early 260 doesn't look much different than a 240

Are these still available?

Core shift is an issue with these blocks along with people running tap water in them. I believe the 1 in 6 statement because it's a result of their testing many blocks over the years.

Nice Snatch reference. Mark what size are your pistons? I missed that in the thread, (just kinda skimmed it quickly.) I wanted to share something I read on Les Collins website. Evidently very few blocks whether N42 or F54 can handle the 3mm overbore. If you are going 89 make sure you get the block sonic tested as Les Collins states that only 1 in 6 blocks can handle the 3mm overbore. http://lescollinsracing.com/engine/projects-engine/3435cc-z-racer Surprising whats true and what gets passed around as truth.

Check out the Nissan Diesel forums: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/. Someone on there would want it. I get a kick out of reading how much they hate S30 guys who pirate their motors for the crankshaft.

No rust = excellent deal. I think you did just fine.

I guess i should just give up then... Seriously, Why are you arguing with me about this?Would I like to have an original set to go off of? Yes. Is it necessary? No. Have I seen closeup pictures? Yes. The gentleman that provided me tracings of his also provided plenty of pics. I've seen several sets in person. I have other pics. Far more complicated parts have been made with less. Did you even read my posts? I mentioned countersinking the holes Read my post I mentioned the gaskets. They are not complicated parts to make. Hardest thing is forming the trim ring. I think that is what has stopped people in the past. I will use a fabrication technique that is very common to make them. Will they be equivalent to the originals. Yes or I won't sell them. No one is forcing you to buy a set, please stop being so negative. And yes the mounting holes varied over the years. (Nissan outsourced these parts)

I was provided tracings of an NOS set which is all I need to copy them. The Lens molds I made using one of my Z's (71) The '71 has fiberglass headlight buckets, my 73 has steel. The molds fit both perfectly. The shape should be very close to the originals. Quality will be equal to or superior to the originals. They will be constructed like the originals out of 2 pieces and Tig welded together in same locations as the originals. 18 or 20 gauge stainless polished. UV resistant acrylic for the lenses. Stainless hardware and necessary gaskets. Only real issue I see is that the mounting holes on the originals varied so if someone that already had mounting holes drilled on their headlight buckets purchased a set the holes may not line up. Workaround will be giving the option to purchase the covers and ringsundrilled. This would allow a customer to line up his pre-existing holes in the headlight buckets. I would also include the neccesary tools to drill and countersink the trim rings. (if customer desired). Bear with me everyone for a little while longer. They will be done and available within 6 months. (hopefully less) My issue is time and prior commitments , not whether or not I'm capable of making them. Only reproductions that I know of are for the G-Nose. There are not any for regular S30's.

Yes I'm trying to finish up some other work (Chevy PU) that has taken far too long. When I get this truck done I will get back on them.

Hello all, sorry for not posting any updates. I've been busy with my day job and side job and have not had much time to devote to this project. I'm currently restoring a 66 Chevy PU for a customer and am in the final stages. My plan is after I get this truck done to get back on the covers. Thanks to the guys that sent me info including tracings and pics of his JDM covers I need to redo my hammerform,to more accurately reflect the tracings, just haven't really had the time with this truck taking up my life for the past 18 months. Rest assured that I will get them produced. Main thing for me is just finding the time between 2 jobs and my family. And my price point of $350-$400 for a set of rings, 2 sets of covers and all hardware hasn't changed. I may be a dreamer. I may be rag tag but that's not gonna stop me.

Cutting out and welding in the VIN in the firewall in most states is a felony. And it's a felony on the Federal level as well. http://www.justice.gov/usam/criminal-resource-manual-1364-altering-or-removing-motor-vehicle-identification-numbers Most DMV's across the US take this type of fraud VERY seriously. Hire a lawyer, document what happened and you should at the very least have enough leverage with this guy to get your money back. If you do the legwork of the case yourself then the cost of hiring an Attorney is lessened) you can hire the Attorney to make contact with the seller and give him the option of giving you your money back or you giving the case over to the Local District Attorney and State DMV. The threat of being convicted of a felony should be enough to get your money back. Or do like Tony D suggests and sue him in small claims. I would try the former and then the latter as the threat of a criminal conviction seems to move most people off their asses a little quicker than civil action does. Just do something though and don't let this jerk slide.

He's just trying to get the word out and make a buck. I can't fault him for that.

Here's my 73 that's presently in my shop undergoing a complete restoration. Don't know if I'll go with 918 or not when it's time for paint.

Best way is to do all your filler work over the epoxy. Filler over bare metal absorbs moisture and doesn't adhere as good as epoxy to bare metal then filler over epoxy. I do this for a living and every Restoration Shop I know of epoxies then does any filler work over the epoxy. Collision repair shops almost never do it this way due to the extra time involved but if it's something you care about it's worth the effort. Here is a great forum for learning about body and paint work. There are a lot of top pro's that post here and very good advice. Check it out. http://www.spiuserforum.com/

Have you seen this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321661256438?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

David I replied to your PM. Sorry for the delay.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Work continues. I hope to be making the first of my pre production rings in a few weeks. Also doing a little more work on perfecting and strengthening the molds. If all goes well I hope to begin production by the end of the month. I'm also working on "reproducing" the JDM "honeycomb" style grille. Plans are to do asome in both satin black and gunmetal grey. I would also be willing to paint them in any custom color.Further down the line I plan on building a few sets of Kameari style headers, as well as some very high quality front and rear bumpers. Show quality finish and plating. I've also got plans to make a few aluminum hoods.. Carbon fiber is trick but for a classic vehicle like the S30 I think aluminum would be cool.

Chec