A while since last post, would like to see what yall think

[Guest Night_rider_383]

As yall might remember my plans was to build a 240 z powered by a 6-71 blown 383 stroker. Well income and family probs has set that goal way down.

Im just now to the point i can start a build up, but i'm not gonna be able to build nothin that wild. Heres what i was thinking. Yall tell me what you think and what kinda 1/4 mile e/t yall think i could see from this set up.

I found a pretty good 1981 280zx man. 5 speed trans,R-200 rear, body is in what i would call great shape, paint just faded, no dents, Seats and dash are kinda trashed, no frame rust or floor pan rust that i could see and i can get it from the man for $250 cash and drive it home. Ok heres what i was thinking for the power plant. I still have my 73 chevy truck with my 453 hp small journal 327 and th-400 trans, and 2800 stall.

I would install 4.060'' x .030'' thick head gaskets and have my heads milled down to 60 cc's. This should bump the compression up to 10.60:1, install a gear drive, crane soild lifter 290/298 cam with 252/260 deg at .050'', with my 1.6 rockers valve lift will be .572''/.591'', While the heads are off go back and do more port work on the bowls and exhaust ports, swap my intake for a weiand Hi-Ram tunnel ram intake with a pair of 450 cfm holley 4 bbl 4160 model carbs atop of it.

From what i added up this should bring the horsepower up to 536 at the very least. Use the r-200 rear soild mounted. Use an alum. Rad. to keep it cool and to keep weight down, Remove all the oem smog stuff, heater core, blower motor, etc. Replace the ripped up oem seats with summit racing seats (this should save alittle weight as well). Replace oem gas tank with a fuel cell, and use a high torque mini starter (these should save a few pounds too). Weld up subframe ties out of round tube in the rockers, install a 12 point roll cage. Buy or make a set of rear fender flears that will let me run 12'' wide street slicks under the rear with the right back spacing on a set of light weight 10'' wheels out back.

For exhaust i would run something like a set of blockhugger headers 1-5/8'' tubes, 3'' coll., dual 2.5'' pipes with low back pressure mufflers (i would like to fit a set of 2 chamber flowmasters under the car but ill work out the mufflers when that time comes).

Also being this will just be a weekend toy i was thinking about useing soild motor plates, This would be a kinda rough ride but it will keep the chassis from "eating" up extra horsepower and torque, plus make the whole chassis set up alittle stronger. Sorry for the long post, didnt mean to take up yall's time. Let me know what you all think about this and maybe what kinda E/T's will i should be clicking off at the track.

Thanks for any info,

John

[Racin_Jason]

Greetings John,

 

Sigh...compromise is a hard thing to stomach aint it? ESPECIALLY when it comes to your car! I've been in the same boat all along with both of my cars. I look at it like an additional challenge to keep it interesting

 

To the point...ET.

I'm going to assume the weight to be about 3000Lbs with driver, tank of gas and the cage etc you mentioned. Using your HP guess, minus 20% drivetrain loss, you would have around 428HP at the wheels Quite a bit. According to the math, if your car is setup correctly and hooks very well, it would run basement 11's. in the 11.10 range. Now, if you could manage to shave some weight off my projected total (late Z's are heavy!...and cages arent lite either)...you could have yourself a 10 second Z car fairly easily!

 

Also, I notice you said your 327 is now over 450HP. Then you mention that you would 'bump up' the compression to 10.6:1. Just my opinion here, but with your current lower compression, if you are indeed making 450+HP...thats one HELL of a 327 pumpgas engine! Most of the folks here have had to go the stroker route to achieve those numbers..let alone the 536HP you expect to get from the same cubes and relatively low compression. Sounds alittle high to me for real world power. I'd love to hear your current head, cam, intake, carb, compression setup. You must have some magic in the heads

 

BTW it sounds like you are getting a GREAT deal on the 280Z! The weight wouldn't bother me to much either. You are gaining a MUCH stiffer chassis and more safety for the price of some pounds. Not a bad tradeoff for the power you are looking to put down!

 

Hope i could help and good luck!

Jason

[383 240z]

Nightrider Would you mind if I asked you more than a few Questions on builing my new motor I could do it on the fourm but I would perfer to do it through e-mail and then make the resualt public knowledge Keith

[Guest Night_rider_383]

Jason....... Thank's man for your input, yeah it is rough when all these set backs pops up. I guess you got a great way of looking at it though.

Ok.I was thinking right along the lines of 10.90's to 11.10's with that set up, So that aint all that bad low 11's. My main prob will be traction. I'll be the 1st to tell you when i aint sure about something and i have no clue what i can to for traction with an IRS. I have always messed around with soild axles, 4 link, ladder bars etc.

Heres some of the specs to my 327 now, It's not really hard to get HP out of these engines if you look at all the right spots, 1962 327, 4.030'' x 3.25'' 332 total c.i.d, trw forged pistons, oem forged rods and crank, 9.78:1 compression, I knife edged and ploshised the crank's counter weights myself, Polished the rod beams, had rods re sized and arp wav loc bolts installed, Coated lifter vally, timing chain/cam vally, and all oil return holes with red glyptal ,crane power max hyd cam. 272/284, 216/228 @.050'' cam lift .454''/.480'' , alum 1.6 roller rockers (brings lift to .484''/.510''), 1965 327 fueli double hump heads, Many many hours spent with a die grinder, The port work i done on these heads was full gasket match the intake runner ports to the intake gaskets, I blended this now larger port down into the runners about 1.5'', De-burred around all the valve guilds, taking all the rough casting bumps out, I first "D" shaped the exhaust ports, then full mirror polished them, Mirror polished the chambers, Also i home coated the piston tops, valve faces, and chambers, Manley stainless 2.02''/1.60'' valves, k-motoin springs, double roller timing chain, cam timing advanced 4 deg. The intake i made due cause i had to good edelbrock performer rpm here, so i opened the intake runners on the intake to the size of the gaskets like i did on the heads, taking the work up the runners as far as i could, De-burred and polished the plenum, 1'' open spacer, I also sanded the opening in the spacer to match the intake/carb, edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Polished the butterflys, throttle shaft, throttle bores, GM HEI dist, 50,000 volt coil, advance curve re-curved to match the engine, bluemax wires, ac-delco R45s plugs gapped at .050'', runs on 92-93 octane for streets, 115 octane sunoco race fuel, mixed with 92/93 octane to get 105 octane for strip

 

Keith...... No prob bud, I'll be glad to help any way i can, Here's my e-mail jja1614@juno.com

 

thank's again yall,

John

[v8dats]

the car looks good jason.it looks like you alredy got a headstart on your hybridz.good luck

[Mikelly]

Night_Rider_383,

You sure know your stuff when it comes to mouse motors... I don't presonally do ANY porting work, as I can ruin a head as fast as you can blink and eye...I'm the Jack Kilvorkian of Grinding when it comes perfectly running a stone on anything delicate!

I like what you spec on the crank and rods as well... Very nice and lots of detail... reads like childs play, but the hours it takes and the patience....

 

You da'man!!!!!

Mike