Oil Pressure Sender

[jersey280]

Good Morning,

 

I own a 1976 280z with the original L28. I purchased the vehicle with a bad original motor but a good 4sp. With the purchase of the car, I bought a running 1978 280z L28. I just recently put the 1978 L28 in my 1976 and have ran into a little issue. My oil pressure sender uses a nipple style connection, rather then a ring and nut type connection on the 1976. My question is, should I cut off the ring connector to the harness and splice in a nipple connector, or should I attempt to put a 1976 oil sender onto the 1978 block? Thanks for your time guys!

 

-Dane

[NewZed]

My 76 has the nipple style.  Yours may have been modified.  Modify it back to what it was.  Or just unscrew the senders and swap them.  Use a wrench on the nut underneath, don't try to turn the body,  It might twist and destroy the guts inside.  

 

And a 78 oil pressure sender also has a switch inside.  Two blades, not one nipple.

[jersey280]

Thanks for the input NewZed. That leads me to the second portion of the issue. The sender is the only thing currently not connected correctly. When I first test started the car the other day, I could hear the fuel pump prime and it would  fire up. After about 5 seconds it would die. Does the oil pressure sender tell the fuel pump to continue to pump fuel?

[NewZed]

Only with a 1978 EFI harness.  1976 uses a switch n the AFM.  It's all described in the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM.  Lots of important other stuff in there too.  Don't overlook that air flow moves the AFM vane that allows the switch to close.  And that the crankcase is connected to the intake system through the PCV.  All air must pass through the AFM.  The crankcase, from dip stick tube to PCV to filler cap has to be sealed.

 

If you're not familiar with the 280Z EFI, there are many other little things to pay attention to.  Read that chapter.