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New turbo Fail


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I just got my draw through turbo back from rebuild new motor this happened less than a minute after start up the burning oil forced me to shut it off. The turbo was pre oiled  the drain is clear and perfect low crank case pressure as well.  The turbo failed from my last engine coming from together and debris. This time it has a in line filter wih no restricter its a journal bearing rotomaster (Garrett T04 ). Has any one ran in to this I want to make sure I've checked every thing before returning it to the rebuilder

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What are we looking at here, a flooded exhaust turbine and failed CHRA Bearings?

It looks like the impeller blades ate something.

#1 cause for new turbo fails is not replacing the line as it's all coked up. I don't know that I'd put a filter in that line as that restriction can starve the bearings... what type of "filter" was it that was installed?

 

It is possible to overwhelm the seals if you oversupply the turbo with oil.

 

I mean, exactly what is the failure mode here?

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the failure is that its pushing oil out both ends of the turbo the feed line is also new 

the in line filter has no restriction I ran this setup on my old motor with no issue the car made 65 psi oil pressure on startup as always 

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The center section was replaced when it was rebuilt the compressor wheel has ate something in a previous life but was there before the rebuild I asked about replacing the wheel the re builder said it was fine  

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I should also mention that budget cuts have forced me to be creative with my class 2 hoard this is a stock 240z bottom with a p90 head and notched block for valve clearance.  with a 280zx cam and a 280zx turbo oil pump I know it wont make as much power as a 280 turbo but its what I have  and Iam sure it will be fun until the next motor. That beaning said this is very well put together hobo motor most of the time this sort of thing starts with 2 cubes of Key stone this was a clean build 

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I had oil leak past the compressor and turbine seals with my Turbonetics BB turbo. The drain is about 4" higher than the return in the pan, and the line slopes gently down to it at an even rate throughout the length.  The slack in the line eventually settled a certain way with maybe 1/2" of droop. This caused oil to backup and leak past the compressor and turbine seals.

 

I had to cut the line 1" shorter to eliminate slack, and ensure it stayed that way with zip ties.

 

I still get blue smoke if I am going down this one long sloping hill... Oh well. Next version of my exhaust manifolds will have to fix that.

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