ZROSSA Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 I am really warming to the idea of the gn motor. I also wouldnt have a auto. Cant stand the things! I can see the problem with the large amount of torque low down and a manual box. Could this be worked around a bit with higher gearing or a cam shaft change to knock back some of the low end? I have only driven a N/a version in aussie commadores and some buick barge the old boy had. There was no point in taking these past 5500 rpm but the Formula Holden guys ran to 7500 rpm all day and i think the indy lights cars ran to 9000 rpm. I think you could make it work. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Originally posted by macks:lets face it, 200rwkw in a zed is going to have you running 12's without much drama - that's approaching the stock internals limit of the more expensive RB series, but only warming up the JZ It's kinda funny how over here the small block chev is fairly respected, if a little old, RB's aren't worth a second look unless you've got extreme dollars, JZ's are fairly cool and not much else rates a mention... ...Yet in the states, you can't go to a wrecker without tripping over SBC's, the JZ's are respected, but nothing special, and the RB's are mysterious and all-conquering.. Go figure 200kw rwhp is extremely easy ot hit with just about all the engine swaps spoken of here (200kw is 300hp) An RB swap, a 1JZ swap, a 2JZ swap, a VG swap, even the L28ET can EASILY put that power to the ground. From all the sources here stateside the RB26DETT can easily hold it's own with the 2JZGTE, stock internals to stock internals, and both can put down 400kw to the wheels with appropriate tuning. No way is 200kw to the wheels approaching the limit of RB stock internals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 I think for the budget builder, the best option for a JDM motor is the 1J motor. I've found front clips (which I HIGHLY suggest in doing a swap like this) for 1800, give or take a few hundred. Thant's cheaper than a SR20 motorset. And in IMHO, the 1J is a much better platform to start from than the SR. I can't remember the injector size, but I'm pretty sure that you're able to get close to 350hp w/ bolt-ons only. The main difficulty w/ these motors are to find one mated w/ a 5sp. Most of these motors are from cars like the Soarer, chaser, and luxury type vehicles. They also came in the older supras, too. There are two types of 1J motors: The single turbo vvt-i, and the twin turbo non-vvt-i. There are advantages and disadvantages for both, but if you're looking for the most power you can get out of bolt-ons, then go w/ the older twin turbo version. The newer ones have ceramic blades, and is the bottleneck. When you start talking about upgrading the turbos, as I'm pretty sure you're going to want to w/ your ambitious goal of 450hp, the single turbo will become cheaper to upgrade. (unle$$ you want to buy two turbo$ or a $tainle$$ tubular Manifold ) Having said all of that. . . I'm not even going to pretend that I know anything about american V8s, I didn't grow up around american muscle (hell, I didn't even grow up around americans. lol.) but I do know this, if you're going for the bang for the buck, either the GN motor (I know enough to know it's a V6. lol), or some other V8 is the way to go. Whether you're talking about initial cost or maintenance cost, import motors/cars are NOT cheap. If it wasn't for me growing up around what you guys consider imports (and all of the turbocharged goodness), I'd probably put more thought into a V8 swap. . . I'm personally going w/ a turbocharged inline 4 for extra lightness Almost forgot. . . the reason you shouldn't go w/ the 7M for that kind of power level goals is that the 7M can't keep head gaskets in tact. I had a friend that had a older model supra turbo, and it was a problem w/ him on a motor w/ only bolt-ons. He didn't know a whole lot about cars, so I was helping him out along the way. I can't remember if it was poor placement of head bolts or just a flexible head, but I do know that blowing headgaskets is a chronic problem w/ the 7M. . . besides, the 1J is newer. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 whoa talk about a OLD THREAD! 2 years ago!!!!!!!!! wow Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 oh, my bad . . . I was doing a search, and I coudln't help but reply. Besides, it'll probably be useful for someone else thinking about this type of hybrid Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 thanks ok.. if i had to pick now from what i did today i would have gone 1JZ. Ive drive a few cars with this motor and wow! mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 on the note of engine swaps when i perform mine (nin about 6 years, once i'm out of trade school) i'll probly end up going with a 13B motor... ...time to get to that search feature.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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