Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build

[A to Z]

3-17-2023 UPDATE: I went ahead and painted the timing cover silver and then top coated it with clear...then worked on the head some more. I finally managed to get the valves out. They measured a 1 5/8 (42mm) on the intake and 1 3/8 (35mm) on the exhaust. Weird. So, It doesn't have 280Z intake valves....the story I was told onthis head when I bought it gets stranger and stranger. The exhaust valves ARE bigger than stock though. Well, you can see the porting done in person. I went ahead and decided to just get all new valves and and inner springs, to go with the new outer srings I had, and new keeper and retainers as well. I kept the rockers and lashpads etc. in the exact same order, so the cam will have the surfaces it is already used to. pics:

[A to Z]

03-23-2023 UPDATE:  Today I picked up some items I had sent for powdercoating.  Intakes in Bronze, Gloss black on the Carb heat shield, metal fuel lines, Air cleaner (both pieces) and brackets for the fuel lines.  Oh, and the grill in Gloss Black.  Now awaiting my SU carb tops and the balancing tube at the polishers.  PICS.

[A to Z]

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

[A to Z]

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my finger over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far as possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

Edited March 26, 2023 by A to Z

[A to Z]

03-27-2023 UPDATE. Well, I got my Engine parts back from J&S Polishing today.

[57GMC]

Wow, lots of work there Joe..  Really impressive on all the cleaning, polishing and attention to detail.. Can't wait to hear it running.. Thanks..

[A to Z]

Thanks.  I hope she is back up soon as well.

[A to Z]

03-31-2023 UPDATE; Engine Assembly. Today I had a 13 hour marathon to get the engine together. I ran out of some parts I thought I had, so I ordered them, but it is almost complwetely together. Ran out of head bolts (the short ones) , and can't find my engine oil pickup, so I had to buy another one on eBay, and my rear main, the side seals that you push down in on the sides to get a tight seal. Some places sell just the seals, others sell the seals and the metal strips that go beside them in there. I don't know if you need the metal strips or not, so I went ahead and got the metal strips along with the side seals. I had put RTV selalant in the grooves a bit and along the cap bottom edge like the manual says....so when I put these strips in there, the RTV will already be hard. I had some issues.....just part of the game I suppose.. Pic heavy, enjoy.

[57GMC]

Now don't scratch it....

[A to Z]

04-02-2023 UPDATE: My custom ordered BSPEED valvecover is now enroute from New Zealand to USA. I designed it with the owner. One off piece. Pricy!

[A to Z]

I  might need to have the bare aluminum sticking up polished!

[A to Z]

04-05-2023 UPDATE:  I went ahead and put a couple Gloss clear coats on the oil pan to help keep it clean, and since we have a cold snap outside right now, I took all my intake parts inside and put them together.  Ready to go!

[A to Z]

04-08-2023 UPDATE:  Engine complete.  Ready to go in.  Took a long time, had to go back and redo some things until I felt it was "right".  BHD single groove harmonic balancer/pulley went right on.  The Apex rear main seal is so much thicker and better constructed than the Nissan one, I had to swap them out real quick.  AZC oil pan holes lined right up, no issues. A long day.  See pics 

[YoBrother]

Drop it in and do some burn outs!

[A to Z]

cross fingers and pray it all works!

 

[A to Z]

04-11-2023 UPDATE:  Ok, So I went ahead and took the engine off the stand and put it on an old  tire with some blankets to protect the oil pan, and then installed the engine plate, and my new Exedy 240mm flywheel and OEM grade 2+2 clutch kit.  I used the Automatic Trans to Manual Trans adapter kit from Godzilla Raceworks, and as you can see from the pics, I tried the wrench with bolts idea to hold the engine still and torqued the bolts down to 110 ft lbs. with blue locktite on the Nissan bolts.  I then grabbed the transmission and installed the shift fork rubber boot and the shift fork and throwout bearing which was all part of the Godzilla conversion kit.  I went ahead and put wheel bearing grease on the shaft, inside the sleeve and wear points, and then it was time to get the trans on.  It took a bit of wiggling and getting it on about halfway, putting a long bolt in to help hold the weight, and then grab the tailshaft and rock it up and down, and the splines finally lined up completely and on it went.  I installed the 4 bolts to hold it on and then it was time for a bit of beautification.  I put the rear block side plug in and cleared it, and then I used my wire wheel attachment again in my electric drill and cleaned up the portion of the transmission case that is seen from the engine compartment once installed, and then sprayed it with gloss clear engine block paint.  Pics ! 

Edited April 12, 2023 by A to Z

[YoBrother]

That's getting long!

[A to Z]

04-13-2023 UPDATE: I pulled the trans back off and wiped off the excess grease and fixed the clutch fork dust cover, then installed the engine. 2 nearby guys came over and helped…It wouldn’t have gone in without their help. It fought us every step of the way, it was incredible how hard it was….also found out things like the motor mounts are different from one side to the next…BUT, it is in! Car sunk down about 3-4 inches with it in. At least it seems that way. Pics

[A to Z]

04-16-2023 UPDATE: It took all day! Rear end swap. I removed the original 3:54 rear end, and swapped

In my “K” case 4:11 geared read end. Both are R180 Units. I cleaned my axle shafts and clear coated them. So the hard part…on the ground doing this and Both are-cast iron cases, so yeah…..they’re are pretty heavy….getting the new one in took awhile. I finally had to get it up on a tool box then lift each side and Keep sticking wood under it front and back….then when close enough to the holes I took a deep breath and got the rear bolts through…whew! I put nuts on there to keep it steady and then jacked up the nose and bolted it up. Not a one man job. So I will finish it later but the center pumpkin is in and cinched down. Yep, I will touch up the paint…..just because. Pics!

All reactions:

11

[A to Z]

• 04-21-2023 UPDATE. Wow another killer day, took a long time but I got everything underneath back together and ready to go.  No pics . But it was a real pain.  Everything fought me. How many time do you have to PB blast and torch heat a fill plug? Not one but TWO plugs! Man o man. It was a test of PERSISTENCE. Now I can Take it off the jack stands and Do the “fun”’stuff. My work clothes are so dirty from rolling around under The car, I felt like a Homeless guy when I went in for the night….man my shoulder hurts! Getting old! Avalanche amber tastes good!  If I drink beer, it is indicative of a tough day in the shop.  This is fun, right?

 

Edited April 23, 2023 by A to Z