Almost awakening, did p/o remove wrong vacuum lines?

[Flak]

Hello all, and before you anything is said, I have used the search engine on this site a little too much on the topic of vacuum deletes.

I had almost awakened my beast from it's slumber.  Attached are photos of the bay.  It is a 1978 280z.  The p/o of my car was making a "racecar.". Therefore, he ripped out all of the a/c components and all of the vapor/vacuum stuff.  I plan on daily driving this car here is PA.  I do plan on putting a/c back in, so I know I need to put back in the vacuum "water bottle" and solenoids on the pass. fender near the links.

My main question is, however: am I good to start her up with the stuff I have capped/deleted?  I have read many posts about egr delete, csv/aar delete (although I may need that back for pa winters), and the charcoal canister delete.  Although, I have been reading up on a pcv (?) Valve that I couldn't find much info on.  I would love any insight if I missed anything or need to reinstall any vacuum components to daily drive it with the best health of the car.

Hopefully this is specific enough and not just another, "what vacuum components can I delete" post.

Thanks in advance guys, these forums have been a lifesaver to a new mechanic like me.

[Zetsaz]

Do you have the FSM? 

 

There's a section that can help you with vacuum line routing. 

I would double check where you have your lines routed to and see what's missing or incorrectly installed compared to stock. Realistically here aren't that many vacuum lines you NEED just to move, but stuff like the AAR definitely help for cold starts. Also looks like you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, so I would double check your vacuum to that.

 

I forget what the FSM calls it, but it looks like you're also missing the little booster that pulls on the throttle linkage when the AC puts load on the engine. Kind of primitive but functional piece that would also be connected to the vacuum canister. 

[Flak]

12 minutes ago, Zetsaz said:

Do you have the FSM? 

 

There's a section that can help you with vacuum line routing. 

I would double check where you have your lines routed to and see what's missing or incorrectly installed compared to stock. Realistically here aren't that many vacuum lines you NEED just to move, but stuff like the AAR definitely help for cold starts. Also looks like you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, so I would double check your vacuum to that.

 

I forget what the FSM calls it, but it looks like you're also missing the little booster that pulls on the throttle linkage when the AC puts load on the engine. Kind of primitive but functional piece that would also be connected to the vacuum canister. 

I do have the fsm.  My problem is that the p/o ripped out EVERYTHING.  So I literally have 0 vacuum anywhere, I believe.  I currently don't have vacuum to the FPR.  Would I just route a vacuum line from the TB to that port on the FPR?  I also don't have the a/c in right now, but I believe you are talking about the fast idle actuator.  I do plan on reinstalling that when I get to the a/c reinstall, probably next summer, but I wouldn't imagine that is needed to run it without ac?  Maybe needed for heat too?

[Zetsaz]

41 minutes ago, Flak said:

I do have the fsm.  My problem is that the p/o ripped out EVERYTHING.  So I literally have 0 vacuum anywhere, I believe.  I currently don't have vacuum to the FPR.  Would I just route a vacuum line from the TB to that port on the FPR?  I also don't have the a/c in right now, but I believe you are talking about the fast idle actuator.  I do plan on reinstalling that when I get to the a/c reinstall, probably next summer, but I wouldn't imagine that is needed to run it without ac?  Maybe needed for heat too?

Route your aftermarket FPR the way the manufacturer recommends, I have mine off the vacuum port in the middle of the intake between the 3-4 runners. 

 

Yes! Fast idle valve, but no, not necessary yet. Pretty sure your car also needs vacuum going to the bottom of the distributor for the vacuum advance. 

 

Fast idle isn't needed for heat, but you do need the vacuum canister with vacuum lines going the right places for the stock system to have heat. IIRC, the system defaults to AC mode if your lines are unplugged. Probably a failsafe so you're not cooking in the summer when people are more likely to drive a sports car.

[NewZed]

The FPR needs to be connected to intake manifold vacuum.  One of those nipples on top of the manifold.  The distributor vacuum advance needs ported vacuum, one of the ones underneath the TB.  Also make sure that the large PCV hose underneath the manifold is connected to the large port in the side of the block and the PCV valve n the manifold.  The hose from your valve cover is the other part of the PCV system and it looks correct.

 

BAT is a good place to find detailed pictures of correct engines.  You might be able to zoom in and find a few things.

 

https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1978+280z

 

 

[Flak]

6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Route your aftermarket FPR the way the manufacturer recommends, I have mine off the vacuum port in the middle of the intake between the 3-4 runners. 

 

Yes! Fast idle valve, but no, not necessary yet. Pretty sure your car also needs vacuum going to the bottom of the distributor for the vacuum advance. 

 

Fast idle isn't needed for heat, but you do need the vacuum canister with vacuum lines going the right places for the stock system to have heat. IIRC, the system defaults to AC mode if your lines are unplugged. Probably a failsafe so you're not cooking in the summer when people are more likely to drive a sports car.

Roger that.  I'll reinstall the heat stuff, I'll need it.  Thanks

Edited December 3, 2022 by Flak

[Flak]

3 hours ago, NewZed said:

The FPR needs to be connected to intake manifold vacuum.  One of those nipples on top of the manifold.  The distributor vacuum advance needs ported vacuum, one of the ones underneath the TB.  Also make sure that the large PCV hose underneath the manifold is connected to the large port in the side of the block and the PCV valve n the manifold.  The hose from your valve cover is the other part of the PCV system and it looks correct.

 

BAT is a good place to find detailed pictures of correct engines.  You might be able to zoom in and find a few things.

 

https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1978+280z

 

 

Thanks for all the help recently NewZed.  I'll look at the fsm for the distributor vacuum stuff.  Thankfully the pcv hose is still under the tb, but I'll have to reinstall the distributor vacuum stuff.