Zetsaz

Front end got tidied up quite nicely and I made new brackets for my intercooler. The drier clears, but I'll have to place the trinary switch on the #6 line instead of the drier. No big deal, but I wasn't able to make the rest of the hoses while I was here. Used on the threaded holes for the original airbox for one of the top brackets, and an existing hole made by the previous owner. The brackets on top aren't supporting weight, just preventing it from tipping forward or back so it doesn't torque on the lower brackets and bend them. Only downside is the brackets look slightly lopsided but the intercooler is centered! Took the car to get aligned and they told me there was play in the steering shaft from a cross threaded bolt. Looks like the end wasn't all the way in and the bolt had never crossed to the threaded side. I loosened everything, chased the threads, and got everything tightened up. Also added one of the missing trim pieces. Looks much nicer. The car as a hole is feeling pretty good, and nearly everything is great. I'm just at a loss with the rear end. I know it'll probably help slightly when I go to the 3.54 rear and everything is rebuilt but there's just this persistent vibration. Flipping the driveshaft 180 somehow solved most of it, but I still get the occasional buzzing and it's driving me crazy. I'm about ready to go back to the stock control arms, oem spindle pin, stock mustache bar, and a kameari mount on the original front diff crossmember. Everything on the car just feels so great except for the rear end buzzing or squeaking. So much of the car is damn near perfect that the small issues like that are a distraction from enjoying it as much as I could. Alignment rescheduled for today, so we'll see what they find or if it solves my problems.

Looking good! You're motivating me to swap over in the future. But I think when that time comes I want to rewrite the whole care and tidy things up. Decades of splices here and there into the main harness has gotten messy despite being functional

Committed to new tires. Far less weight to balance them as expected. The inside was more worn than I realized on the old ones. Went with Yokohamas in 205/55/15. Skinnier than I wanted but they were half of what the 200tw options were, weren't so aggressive, and they'll give me a couple more years of use before I spend bigger money to go up a size. Currently working on getting the AC condenser and drier mounted with the new hardware from vintage air. I'm hoping the drier JUST clears the intercooler, but I'm anticipating it being tight. Will be making new lower brackets for the intercooler as well. You can see in the pic they're extremely bent because they were so flimsy. As they say... Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution.

Always an inspiration Mark! A lot of what you do is well out of my abilities, but seeing your project still being refined after so many years keeps me motivated on mine.

Part of the move is definitely to keep the rolling diameter closer to oem. Separate from that it's really just about tire selection. I have lots of adjustability with all my parts, so other things are less of an issue.

I've been following Star Road for a long time and was really excited when they first showed their aluminum panels. Maybe in the next decade when I'm repainting I'll consider the aluminum doors and fenders since their fitment is likely much better than other aftermarket options. These would definitely be great options for your build, though likely not the fenders if you're going wide. There are a handful of carbon hood options so I think most people probably aren't as interested in the hood unless they're getting most of the rest.

This might be the first Christmas break I haven't had parts waiting for me... It was a great feeling up until I took advantage of the warm weather Utah has had to take the car out for a soda and my window didn't roll back up. Something broke and things were jammed bad. Found multiple problems that probably eventually contributed to the failure. -The body guy who did assembly after paint put the front sash on the wrong doors when it was reassembled. It was even marked to out things back correctly! -One of the aftermarket roller guides broke. No big deal. The normally only came with one, so I'm gonna leave it as is for now. -The plastic guide on the front of the window that goes into the front sash broke There was a solution to all of these - I still have spare doors from the 76 body i started with. Swapped parts over... Still couldn't get the rear gap correct on the window despite adjusting everything as far as it went to correct. Gave myself a day to think about it and realized the regulator might have bent. Pulled the spare, then removed the glass for the third time and pulled the regulator on the car... Definitely bent. Adjusted and also swapped the passenger side front sash to the correct one and now the windows move better than they ever have! Not the most fun way to get a small "quality of life" fix on the car but I'm glad I got it done.

Impressive work! I have most of the T3 stuff and their brakes but I bought bit by bit over many years so I'm always a little bummed I never got to lay out all my suspension like you have. It's fun to see all the shiny new parts in one place RB was my dream too before I had a deal too good to pass up on my L28ET. Love to see it

It should only be the bolts that hold it to the block. No extra secret hidden bolts. Have you tried tapping it with a rubber mallet? if someone used gasket adhesive on both sides it would be pretty well stuck. I had to use a rubber mallet to knock mine loose. If it's really stuck with something like permatex ultra black instead of a stock style gasket have you tried running fishing line through it? Could cut through easier than a blade without damaging the metal.

Stock diameter I think is alright with wider wheels. 245/50/16 looks good honestly, but 225/60/15 has only a few options, and they're all basic all seasons As much as I want Watanabes in maybe a 16x8 0 offset I may just end up with the Panasports that Z Car Garage offers in a 16x7 with a slight positive offset. I'm not completely sold on the +11(?) offset of those. They're on a ton of Z's, and I think they would look a bit better as a 16x8, but short of something custom and over double the price I just don't think I'm going to get exactly what I want

Feels like the options for smaller wheels are just becoming impossible to find, at least in the US. Europe and Japan still have lots of small new cars, so I think they have a couple more options. Even the more popular size Miatas use in 225/45/15 I can only find in 200tw, but they're so much shorter than stock, I think they always look terrible and out of proportion on the Z Potenza sport looks okay. I think the 052 is out of the question as a 200tw, but moreso because of the cost. I'm trying to keep it under $200 per tire so I can spare some change for the wheels. Right now I'm thinking of the Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02. They're 340tw, but supposedly slightly better on the comfort than most other options, which I have started to care more about now that the car is much nicer haha. Know the Toyo Proxes R1R are popular for some guys running 16s, but they're only in a 225/45 profile. I appreciate the support! I know many posts have nothing people can really respond to, so sometimes it feels like you're just typing into the wind, so I appreciate that people have been enjoying the build all these years.

Update - The Kumho tires I was using as a street option are no longer available. It looks like the only tire options in 225/50 are all 200 treadwear or under, so basically track only. I'd be interested in a couple of the 200tw options, but it seems like a lot of wear and expensive for a cruiser, so it looks like moving up to 16" wheels is the only option now

Not much to update on the car. Slowly thinking of the next batch of improvements. The struggle now is it's mostly in a really good place, so short of spending huge money on something like a change over to a Haltech R3 to control everything there's not too much. Current "smaller" considerations are the following: -Cam swap to a "small" Steve Bonk turbo cam - the lobe center/lobe separation on mine is just too wide for what I want. Bonk cam would get me more responsive in the low to mid range, with probably only a small sacrifice at higher rpm where I spend almost no time anyway. -Swap to my 3.57 r200 and rebuild with the OEM kit and OS Giken LSD I have waiting. Should give me better cruising rpm and supposedly better loading on the turbo for improved boost -New tires (and new wheels?) My tire options are just so limited for tires or something a bit more street friendly than 200tw that moving to 16" wheels might be the best solution. I'm now thinking that most of my road noise complaints are actually the current tires being near the end of their life. They've been on for years now and I think it's time to finally switch them out no matter what. -Switching back to the OEM style front diff mount with a Kameari piece, and possibly even the OEM mustache bar. There's a small chance the T3 bar is fouling against the spare tire compartment and adding to drivetrain noise, but it also just feels like unnecessary bling. Looks great from underneath, but might be wasted money.

Was looking for an old post from you because of the Panasport wheels you had and remembered this great thread. Any good progress since last year?

There's a reason I defer to "experts" for most things. You can be relatively knowledgeable about a lot of things, but no one can have truly extensive knowledge of more than just a few things. True expertise and experience just requires so much time and commitment. What engine is that?? Very exciting! After many roadtrips in my car and realizing it is fully a street car, I've been brainstorming going fully the opposite direction as you and focusing on making it more comfortable, even if it means moderate sacrifices to handling.

After a 2000+mile trip this summer in the Z I'm inclined to agree with this. Part if me is tempted to go back to stock arms on rubber, are at least all poly instead of some of the heim joints on my T3 parts. The performance benefit of some aftermarket arms is marginal at best. That said, the tension rods might be one place where solid almost makes some sense even on a street car because changes will be more noticeable there under braking.

By "tightened up" do you mean you just cranked down on the nut? If your front bearings need to be replaced that's one thing, but you should definitely not just tighten them down. Did you follow the FSM procedures for proper torque on the front hubs? It's way less than you would expect. The nut gets torqued to 20ft lbs then *backed off by 60 degrees. I had a front wheel bearing fail pretty catastrophically last summer and the race bored out the hub. Most likely cause was that it was just too tight. initially and failed prematurely then seized suddenly and basically friction welded itself.

About 800 miles later. Running smooth. Temps with the new e fans were steady all the way. Only time they climbed a *little* was on very long uphill stretches. But it's to be expected when the turbo is getting loaded more and the return coolant line from the turbo goes straight to the thermostat. Overall very smooth, and as usual the long trip gave me a variety of small things to start looking at. Definitely want to update the mounting on the exhaust, just a bit too much movement and occasionally tapping the back and making some noise. New mounting method and the bigger muffler will make it downright comfortable on long drives.

Final update before road tripping tomorrow. I was so bothered by the vibrations last night come back home from my niece's birthday that I decided to pull off the front diff mount and inspect. It looks like the bolt through the bushing was either loose or the upper piece of the mount was warped and didn't let the side squeeze right on the bushing. Bottom was rattling back and forth when I moved it after taking off the cross member. 3 hours worth of work later and putting the RT top mount on instead I tested and the vibrations are gone! I had to grind part of the bolt going through the bushing to pull it out because I couldn't get any leverage on the bolts going through the diff and they block each other. For a moment I thought it was placebo, so I kept finding multiple loads and speeds that it would vibrate the most at last night and got nothing. The biggest difference is the lock mechanism on the seatbelts is never rattling anymore which was a huge annoyance. TL;DR - the T3 diff mount (not the cross member itself) is probably needlessly complicated and is just too many parts stuffed into a tiny space.

It's going to be good! I had to wait months for it, but it once it was ready to go shopping was very fast. Even with tariffs on entry it cost me much less than it would have from a vendor here in the US

Actually now that you mention it, I'm 99% certain the tires were not mounted correctly initially. The marks are long gone though, so my friend did the best he could. But This is the last trip on these tires and maybe these wheels so I'm not too stressed about it. More annoyed by the vibration under light load right now. That said, at around 70mph there's enough load in most situations that it's almost nonexistent and any slight noise it was making from 45-60ish is completely covered up by the wind and even other cars' tire noise while driving. I think I'm gonna switch back to the RT top mount tomorrow morning before the trip and if it's not better I'll just deal with it. The T3 mount they switched to on their front diff cross member is just so tightly packaged that I feel like it might be amplifying some of the noise or actually causing it. Part of me wants to just go to stock or a Kameari mount and the RT snubber on top

It was a good idea not to wait on rebuilding the 3.54 diff. The new LSD arrived weeks after I expected it and there's no shot I would have been able to swap it into the spare R200 before my trip. I'm excited to get this together in the winter though!

Got the front speakers in today! Considering none of the speakers are big it's not particularly impressive, but it sounds alright for a 50 year old car. More incentive for me to go to a quieter muffler next year which I didn't get to do this time around. Got the tires balanced and was surprised just how poorly balanced these things are. My new Panasport spare only need 1/2oz, these needed... So much more I won't bother counting each. The vibrating I was tracking down is 90% gone and now I can't tell what's left of it. With the wheels and driveshaft balanced it's almost entirely gone but over 50mph I'm still getting some vibrations on very low load - so cruising speed. The moment push the pedal a bit for even slow acceleration it's gone and when I'm off the throttle it's also gone.

My new speaker pods arrived, and I wired up my Spal fans and shroud from Galgo today! Need some more speaker wire that I'll pick up tomorrow. Fans work really well. Have them set to turn on at 185 and off at 175 in megasquirt.

People's Choice at a small cars and coffee in town this weekend. Brakes feel really good. It's weird feeling how firm the pedal is compared to the originals now that it's all stainless hoses and the rear has been upgraded. Even the parking brake is better than I expected! Getting wheels balanced today - I know for a fact one had a couple weights knocked off, I can see where the adhesive was, and I'm still upset about how many weights they used to balance one corner. Someone wasn't doing their job right when they mounted the tires I think, because there's no way you need two long strips on opposite sides to get a wheel balanced.