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Which year Z's are best for buildup?


Guest DRK

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I am getting ready to build a V8Z. I have bought the book from JTR and read through it completely. I am wondering if there are any years from 70 to 78 that are preferred? It would appear the later years with the R200 rearend would be preferred with the only drawback being all of the extra wiring to initially clean out of the engine compartment. My old high school buddy has a 78 model with very little rust. He has had the car since he was 16 (10yrs) and would now like to see it get a good home. I am leaning toward buying it.

 

Thanks in advance for all the answers.

 

Danny

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The later Z's have the stronger diff, as well as a slightly stonger body, stronger bumpers and are a little more refined, the gas tank/fuel lines are already set up for a fuel injected engine. However the BIG drawback is that the later Z's are ALOT heavier! Basically it depends on what you want. I believe that in some states you can put a V8 in a 240 and pass emissions but not with a 280.. at least not without spending more money? You also have to consider that if you want a 240 because it is lighter are you gonna just end up adding extra weight by trying to strenghten your car? (roll bar, frame connectors, R200, ect.)

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If smog issues are nonexistant for your state where you reside, go for a later Z. Weight is not really an issue since the car will be very fast anyway, and you can always build a stroker motor if you genuinely feel the 280 is slug, but I really doubt you would.

 

The 280 is a bit better made than the 240 and will most likely be in better condition since it is a newer car. I like the door and window mechanisms in the 280 better, not to mention the trim and interior. I have to skirt the smog nazis in my state, so a 240Z it is for me, but I would take a 280Z in a second if smog were no issue.

 

BTW, when I say smog is an issue, I'm just stating that I could comply with the regulations and equipment, but this limits the upper end power that I crave and the freedom of ultimate creativity IMO. Plus, why spend money on smogging the car every other year?

 

If the price of the 280Z is right and the car is clean, snatch it up and do the swap--just make sure you budget yourself very well, otherwise you'll lose interest in the swap over time (not what you want). Good luck! icon_smile.gif

 

Davy

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Guest jwelch

I wanted to comment on the smog issue with the later Zs. It really depends on your state's rules and where the car was originally sold. For instance I live in Arizona and I have a 77 with a V8 in it. I'm able to do this because my car was not a CA. car which had cats. and smog on them,at least this is what the emissions people tell me. I have passed smog every year although I do have to dial the car in to make it pass. I know CA. may have completely different regulations. Make sure you get the facts from your state and beware that they will discourage you from putting a car like this on the road if they can. Just my 2 cents worth. Good Luck

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Emissions...?

Smog...?

 

What are these foreign words that I am hearing? You gotta love the motor city. Any vehicle older than 1 day, no longer needs to be tested for anything. icon_biggrin.gif

 

As for which Z to get, I highly recommend a 75-78 280Z. Yes, it is heavier than a 240Z... but that's what the V8 is for. It's a lot easier (and more fun) to build more HP than remove weight. Some of the major advantages a 280Z has over the 240 and 260's are:

 

[*]

 

More space between frame rails. A 280Z will actually have about 1 inch more width for a radiator between the frame rails. I found this out when I swapped out the radiator from my 280Z to my 260Z icon_mad.gif

 

[*]

 

Wider trans tunnel. A wider tunnel means less (if any) hammering.

 

[*]

 

All 280Z's came with the R200 differential. A must with over 300 rwhp.

 

[*]

 

Segregated EFI wiring harness. This is a MAJOR plus in my book. All the engine wiring is contained in one neat little harness that ends in the drivers footwell. My 260Z had all the engine wires wired into the main harness. It was a very painfull process sorting out all that crap.

 

IMHO, the 280Z was just a better engineered car. Just like any other run of a model, the last generations get all the squeak, rattle and bump fixes. Now if it's 100% pure speed you are after... start looking for those 1970 or early 1971 240Z's.

 

-Andy

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Hey thanks for all the input. Several of you brought up things I was not aware of such as better window mechanisms and stronger construction of the 280. The stock heavy bumpers will be removed, so their weight is not a factor. I have a longtime hookup for legal papers and a sticker for smog so it is not an issue, and I never intend to sell the car. My buddy finally came up with $1250 as a price, and I am going to go with it. It really is in excellent condition and has not been bastardized. I am getting really excited about finally starting this project. I had a 1971 240Z when I was 19 and wanted to put a 350 in it, but could not afford it(poor college student with non-understanding parents of my need for speed).

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