1974.5 260Z ATLAS build

[A to Z]

I got out to the garage for a couple hours today, and I fixed the valve cover. My original baffle for the port feeding my catch can wasn't clearing....I put off fixing it forever. Well, I am now at the point that I need it fixed now to keep working forward. So, Today I grinded it all out & cleaned it up and got the valve cover down now permanently. The location when I installed the port was against the cam and cam tower. So, What I am doing to fix it, is JB welding a steel plate on the tip of my threaded and cut down bung. Once the JB Weld is cured, I will grind it down to the same diameter as the threads, and bevel the tip, and then drill a few small holes in it. Enough to hold the oil back but the vapor can get through. My catch can is such it is easy to unscrew, pour the oil back in and screw it back on anyway.

 

 

[A to Z]

01-28-2026.  Productive day.  I got the remaining valve cover bolts cleaned up and painted, then installed.  I then also got the fitting for the catch can installed.  I drilled the access hole and got the engine wiring stand along harness laid out on the engine a couple things plugged in and fed the large end into the cabin and then set the electrical panel on tint genreal area of where it will be installed later.  I also went ahead and installed the injectors and rail and pulled the header off, installed the stud kit from Atlas Industries..... installed the wastegate on to the header along with the down pipe and then got it all back on to the engine and torqued down.  I took the bolts I have for holding the turbo down and turned them into studs and now I just need another turbo gasket and I can install it and be done with that.  I was able to re-clock the center section, so when I get to it, I can get the oil feed and drain installed.  I had enough time to get the holes cut out for my dash center panel, and with the gauges and toggle switch I can get that all assembled after I give the panel a coat of paint.  Pics follow.  Cheers!

[A to Z]

10 gallon fuel cell from evil energy arrived. it fits! very nice quality. Last pic is from the Skillard site, but I just bought this floor and will be using it with this fuel cell and a battery box.

[74_5.0L_Z]

That type of fuel cell is only good for drag racing and mild street driving.

 

I had something similar in my car when I first built it.  When I started auto crossing the car, I found that the fuel had to be kept almost full to prevent starvation during braking and cornering.

[A to Z]

01-31-2026 UPDATE:  I cut and modded the rear taillight panel and fitted some new reproduction euro style 240Z taillights and some factory covers I bought a while back that I had powdercoated gloss black.  After that I attached the second hatch shock by drilling and tapping for it and then attached the MSA fiberglass rear spoiler.    Then I cut the hole needed to access the fuel line hookups on the Evil Energy 10 gallon fuel cell.  I turned it 90 degrees, as there wasn't enough rwork room underneath to have it facing back, and its much better as I now have a ton of room under there for setting up my whole fuel pump and filters setup.  Then I wired the back half of the car, I will go back and make up the connections on the end later.  I rustoleum primed the areas in the spare tire well and floors that needed it and then filed out the remaining holes on my dash center section so the gauges would sit in it the way I wanted them to.  The rear taillight surround was the item that really fought me today.  In particular the center section for the license plate.  I ended up having to spend quite a bit of time modding it to make it look the way I wanted it to.  The fuel cell isn't completely level yet as my 3/8" All Thread hasn't arrived yet. The all thread will attach at the feet on he bottom of the fuel cell and the bottom of the spare tire well.  then at the top I have some 3/16" thick steel plates I will drill holes in for the all thread to level the tank up and drill holes to attach it through the floor on the ends.  Pics follow.

[A to Z]

01-31-2026 pics of the completed dash center piece:

[A to Z]

02-02-2026 UPDATE.  Happy Groundhog Day!  Well, it's time to get that transmission in!  It is a completely remanufactured GM / Aisin AR5 for a 2003-2009 Chevy Colorado 2WD pickup.  These are TOUGH and the bonus is, it bolts right up to the ATLAS engine without an adaptor plate. The 6 cylinders never came with a manual trans, and so I am doing this.  I got my powder coated bellhousing on and torqued down, installed a new Hydraulic throw-out bearing with the spacer from Emtech, which is needed with their flywheel.  Then I took the flywheel, which comes from Emtech, but are made for them by RAM and held it up and used a couple bolts to hold it on.  29.1 lbs., so pretty heavy, but the ridge in the center of the crank helped hold it up while I got the 2 bolts started.  Thanks to RAM for putting a sticker on the flywheel that does NOT want to come off!  next is install my Pilot bearing, torque the flywheel on at 70 lb/ft with the blue install fluid on the threads, which is considered necessary by ARP hardware for their fittings. I added 2 pics that show where I will have to make a new hole for my shifter, as this trans is 4-5 inches shorter, and a pic showing the factory trans mount ears in the trans tunnel I have to chop off and grind smooth.  not bad for 2 hours work.  BIG jump forward.

[A to Z]

I got my billet column adaptor for my raceware turn signal lighting and horn control. Not too shabby.

[A to Z]

02-04-2026 more work on the ATLAS Z. I got the adaptor plate for the brake master done, more progress on the fuel cell, and unpacked some stuff. Pics follow:

[A to Z]

02-05-2026.  ATLAS Z UPDATE.  I got up early and got on the road.  I went to Junkyard Jenny's in Ft. Lupton, about 110 miles one way and bought a R200 rear out of a 1978 280Z manual trans that she got in.  Less than 100K original miles and she inspected it and said it is VERY nice inside.  So, I got the diff, the mustache bar, and the front mounting parts.  I ordered a new gasket rom Eric at Z Car Depot, and will paint it up and install later....after the trans is in.  then teh driveshaft .  It's an open diff with 3:54 gears!  Exactly what I wanted.  I ASSUMED my late 74 came with an R200, but when I looked under there, a greasy R180 stared back at me!  .  If you are in the Colorado springs area and want a free R180 let me know.    I took my Wilwood clutch master.....I got from Godzilla Raceworks, and masked it off, wiped it down with alcohol and applied several thin coats of silver engine paint.  Why? to match the brake master and the color palette in the engine bay.  You will also notice I used stainless fittings to get the hookup for the clutch line that I brought in from the cabin to the master nice and clean.  On the brake side, I got the Master mounted up to my adaptor plate I finished yesterday and mounted it up requiring me to remove the clutch and brake pedals, move the clevis point on the brakes up 1 inch for a better pedal ratio as I eliminated the brake booster (I did this on my 240Z, so it was quick and easy).  Once I got everything bolted up, I was able to adjust my brake pedal height, but ran out of time and daylight for the clutch side.  I need to get a replacement locknut for the clutch master rod as I cant find the one it had.....and then use the Speedway threaded clevis and pin, which is larger diameter, and that is why I pulled the pedal and drilled it out.  In the pics, you can see I achieved the clean install I wanted.  I loosened the clamps holding the master cylinders and moved them, etc. little things to make it look even cleaner.  I will plug the remaining "slop" in the holes drilled and paint with a Q tip to finish it off, but I have kept the shaved firewall.  Yeah, I am happy.   Not too bad for a big bumper 260Z.