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engine is out....again


scottyMIz

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well it's that time when the snow falls and i go thru my engine.Seems like just last year i was doing the same thing..... oh ya it was last year :D I just got the engine out today and i'll start on her disassembly prolly tomorrow or monday to see what i broke when i was beating the crap out of it at the drag strip.I think it's rings or ring lands but i guess we will see.I'll get pics and it only took me about 2 hrs to take the engine out, I'm getting better tongue.gif I plan to get an extranal wastegate and good ic along with an engine management system.So far i have only seen that the sds comes with coil packs everything else i have seen doesn't seem to include them.

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Do you think you'll be going with forged pistons, ARP fasteners and metal head gasket this time? Let me know if you need pictures hosted of your internal's damage.

 

Wouldn't the external wastegate help keep the wasted exhaust from bothering the path of the exhaust coming out the back of the turbine? Sounds like a good thing to me.

 

Do you have boost creep?

 

A modified turbo back plate/down pipe would probably help quite a bit though by giving a smoother run from the waste gate port into the down pipe, I think Scottie's down pipe on the GN is like that? That sharp bend in the case just can't be good when trying to flow a lot of air out of that little hole.

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the reason i am getting a external wastegate is cuz i want more control and i think tony is right according to maximum boost. Also I think i'm gonna try to make a turbo header.The dp is smaller cuz there is only so much room to make it fit,also the outlet on the turbo is only 2.5".If any of the turbo gods wanna help like scottie just jump in smile.gif and tony yes i still plan to do the forged pistons and new rods and i think maybe i'll use the stock head gasket.I'm also getting an sds or something equal to it to control the ignition and fuel.

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Unless you have some upgraded hybrid with a modified T3 turbine housing, the outlet is 2 1/8". Would a 3" DP be better? Absolutely, BUT you have start with 2.5" then expand it to 3" then make a 90* bend, all w/in 4-5" or so, then another 90* to go towards the back. IOW, a 3" DP for a stock turbine has to follow the same shape as the stock DP. Someone has to convince that is better than a 2.5" that comes straight off the turbo for about 6" then makes 2 45* bends. See the pic to understand what I am saying.

 

As for the "control" thing, that is debatable at this HP level. I ran 17psi, Z-Gad is running 19 and Patrick ran 22. None of us have/had any control or boost spike problems with our el-cheapo boost controllers, 2.5" DPs and the same turbo you have, with Patrick running 11.74 (350rwhp). I know my GNZ is different :rolleyes: but remember I am running 25+ psi boost with an internal wastegate, adjustable wastegate rod and simple bleed-off valve. How? A simple $1 fix to put a softer spring in the bleed-off valve for better granularity, err, control.

 

I personally think the cost of the turbo mod, new DP, exhaust mod and the external wastegate itself could be put to better use until you start exceeding 350+rwhp. Right now you are a little less than 300. But, what do I know :rolleyes: . That external wastegate sure sounds and looks exotic though.

 

DP-sideview.jpg

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Hey Scottie, would you be willing to share the demension of that DP above? I'm not trying to make a money off your design. I'm in the process od making 3 inch DP for my turbo motor and I thought it'll be nice to know the demension so I know how much tubing I would need before I go buy some. It was for 1G Z right?

 

Another thing I'm considering is to use some heat treated allen wrench bolts rather than the studs that gets in the way with straight 3 in DP? What do you think?

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scottie was your post aimed twords me?I know i'm not making a whole lot of power but i am planning on getting over 10 psi this coming year with a good ic.I could only run 10 psi and still did way better than my last quater time.I am gonna try to make a exhaust header cuz i have my old hooker header that is dying from rust.So i'll cut off all the pipes and make my own and support the turbo with another bracket to prevent cracking.I was thinking since i'm making the header i might as well make the external wastegate in there too.I had big prob this year controlling the turbo but i think it's the dial a boost.I do have a hybrid turbo t3/t4e with a .70 a/r on the housing i don't know the wheel specs.I plan to get timz's old pistons and some nice rods and hook up the bottom end.Also i plan to get his ic( i get well tested parts from him ;) )and a nice engine management system for it.I should get over 350 rwhp this year(hopefully).I appreciate the help from all the guys and don't mean to make anyone think i'm being snotty if i was.Sleeper, i was beating on it too much this year at the track and when it detonated i didn't let off and either broke rings or ring lands.Only in the number one and two cylinders.That's why she is getting torn down again.I'm not gonna make that mistake again but in all honesty i was planning on rebuilding it so i didn't care if it blew it.I must say the L28et is one strong engine cuz even after i broke it at the track i drove it and raced it the rest of the summer.It would still whoop anything in town before i pulled the engine too.

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Hope we'll see your engine over 20psi with the stand alone and good intercooler. I have a set of 440cc/min injectors if they would help, but I can help you find a set of 550's out of rx7's if you'd like.

 

I need to get my orange car to the track to see my times with 14psi. The modded starion IC seems to be handling it okay. What was your best time so far with the t04e compressor?

 

Have you done any minor porting of the cylinder head? If not would probably help a little to get that nasty casting junk out of there.

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hey tony my best time with the t4e compressor at 10 psi was in my sig at 12.86 @109mph.I still got the injectors that i got from you and i think they are plunty big.I did port and polish the intake ports on the head and ported and polished the intake too.They are all nice and smooth and the intake matches the head.After this maybe i can hang with the big dogz on here ;)

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Guest De Schmaydee

ooooooooooo.....methinks "o" rings and a new head gasket's definately in order here....hehehehe....and a big box of 1/2 shafts and/or cv's...

.....but i really do think (w/the new pistons and all) you should o-ring it and use a steel head-gasket....s

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Originally posted by De Schmaydee:

ooooooooooo.....methinks "o" rings and a new head gasket's definately in order here....hehehehe....and a big box of 1/2 shafts and/or cv's...

.....but i really do think (w/the new pistons and all) you should o-ring it and use a steel head-gasket....s

From what I've heard, O-rings AND metal headgasket doesn't work. Either metal head gasket or O-rings with a factory gasket are both viable options. But if you will be going with a programmable EFI and can get it dyno tuned with safe fuel mixtures, you may not need to do either under 20psi. But I'd still tuck a 1mm metal gasket in there ;)
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Food for thought, and only my opinion, but...head gasket failure is cheaper and less fatal to an engine than say, blowing a rod bearing (or dropping a rod all together). and O-ringing the block, head or both greatly reduces the chance of blowing a head gasket. its just my opinion, but i think you shouldn't do the o-ring and leave the headgasket as the fussible link of the engine internals.

Pat.

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