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Got some questions that need to be answered :)


Guest ON3GO

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Sense alot of ppl have been saying its easier and cheaper to just say put in a SR20DET or RB26DETT in a Z i found these parts and was wondering if the prices are good.

these are for the SR20DET.

Brand new Spearco Intercooler with end tanks, size of core is 20in by 9in by 1.6in. and its 300 bucks shipped.. Yes or No?

Tomei Cams 250 intake/ 250 exhaust degree with 10 duration drop in no hassle cams, only 500 bucks shipped. YES or NO?

Greddy 88 mm x 1.2mm metal headgasket, Greddy Stiffier racing valve spring, and Tomei Rocker arm stopper all for $480 shipped. Yes or NO?

HKS SPFDD inake for 90 bucks shipped...

also found a few more things like BOV, intake manifold, and etc for good prices but im looken for the links now.

If you think these are good prices please let me know because ill start ordering right away.

 

thanks

mike

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Mike,

 

I cant really coment on the prices, they all look good from what we pay here.

 

I would however have a good think about the cam. I have been going trough the junkyard turbo site the last couple of weeks and it seems that most people get good results with the n/a stock cams. All the sr20's i have been in would rev over 7000 rpm from the factory. The turbo will make it rev a little harder. Not so sure about the rb20 though. If I were doing it I would use the rb25 anyway.

 

The only way i can see new cams being a benifit for you is if they favour the exhuast so you can spin the turbo a little faster or sooner.

 

Hopefull some of the turbo guru's will jump in here and clarify things a bit.

 

Cheers

 

Douglas

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I'd save that little SR20 to put in your 240sx, roadster, 510.. Put a RB series into the Z car, it'll look much more at home in there, and make power easier.

You could make the same or more power with the L28ET with less hassle, simple drop in motor, no fabricating mounts, no fabbing drive line, no rare parts.

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i was told that it would be way more money to make a L28ET have the HP and times i want out of it. everybody said that it would be cheaper to just get a RB26DETT in there.

 

mike

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I just saw this so let me clarify.

First, yes I said it would cost more to get high hp from the L6. However, that does not include the original purchase price of the motor! So in the end, you may be equal in outlay of money between the two,(L6 vs RB26). Assuming you could find a free RB26,(yea right), you would have to spend about 2k to get it up around 450+ hp. Maybe not even that much, but I am including downpipe, intercooler, and such. Taking a free L6, the same power would cost between 4 and 6 thousand. But you have that minor part where the RB costs quite a bit by itself. Hence the recommendation for the SR20. But it is not as reliable above 350 hp, even if the power does come very easily.

Enjoy,

Bob

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well im gonna go with the RB26, i figure if i buy the motor and tranny and all that is needed to make the car run perfect. then i would leave it at that untill i cant spend even more money on the right mods for the car.

i figure i can put the money i have saved for the interior and put it toward the motor swap.

i dont need to spend 1 grand plus on seats just yet.

thinks i am worried about is what tranny to get, and small things like what color code is the red on some RB26DETT valve covers you see in mags :D ...

 

mike

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Mike,

You change your mind more than a woman in a clothing store.

First, we have already established that your budget is between 6k and 10k. Actually, the 10k was the max and meant doing nothing else.

-Lets say you get lucky, and can find a complete,(read that again, complete), RB26dett and RB25 RWD tranny for 5k. First, you would be lucky, but lets go on that premise.

-Next you need an intercooler. $800.

-Upgraded radiator, $300 min for a good aluminum one.

-Paying someone to custom fab the motor and tranny mounts. $500+. Trust me on this one I am in the process right now.

-Wiring it up to make it work....depends on your skill. Based on the questions you have asked, I would put you in the pay someone else to do it category,(meaning you don't have the knowledge level,(notice I said level, not blanket statement on your knowledge) to read schematics, run tons of wires and troubleshoot on your own - the last part being the most important). $500-1000.

-Fuel pump plus plumbing - $350-500

-Fabricated Exhaust, min of $250.

You have just maxed your budget and you don't even have dyno time, upgraded brake system, wheels/tires, rear diff, etc..

Knowing what you have budgeted, and what your stated goals,(I will ignore the desire for 500 hp and 11 second time slips). I will re-iterate what I said earlier, and that Scottie and others backed up.

Build a 300-350 hp car first. Then upgrade the car,(and your driving skills for that car), then shoot for more power. 350 at the wheels in a early Z will be mid 12's easy. Faster than anything you have owned. In the process of building up your Turbo L6, you will learn a great deal about what makes a turbo work on a L6. And there are lots of folks here who have built 300-400 hp L6 turbos so you can use their recipies.

It usually entails the following:

-Upgraded turbo,(can stay with stock manifold - and likely buy someones who is upgrading to a custom tubular one)

-Custom intercooler

-Upgraded fuel pump and lines

-Upgraded fuel injectors

-some throttle body that is larger

-some form of aftermarket engine management like SDS

-custom down pipe and exhaust

-aftermarket turbo cam of some kind.

That's it. You will get between 300 and 350 hp at the wheels with that combo and it will be faster than your AWD wonder that wouldn't run correctly.

The RB swap is very involved, and will run at a minimum 10k, more like 15k. There are 4 of us talking right now via an e-mail list and all of our budgets are in that range.

It is clear to me you have not sat down and written a full budget for this project. Include all the mickey mouse crap like hoses, rear CV upgrade, brakes, tires, etc.. You already have a L28. It will be much cheaper to take a baby step to 300 some odd hp and learn the car in that stage. At that point, you will know better what you want from the Z, will know how it drives, and if you want to stay with the L6 or move up to something more crazy.

Yes the RB has more "headroom" but you aren't going to use it for some time.

I know I shoot you down at every corner, but I was esp. concerned when I saw the "I'm ready to buy it today" post on the SR20. You wanted to jump in head first to shallow water with a motor you knew nothing about,(refering to going straight to aftermarket cams when the stock cams can support 400+ hp).

There is a ton of info here on the L6 and after reading your posts for the last month, I think it is the best fit for you. Both for your budget and for your goals.

-Bob

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no way an rb26dett or an sr20det swap is ever going to be cheaper than the l28et swap, cant be.

a front cut runs you avg. 3k for the four, and 3-???K for the rb motor. the joy of having a very high tech motor under your hood is nice, but its an expensive game you play with those motors. true, my aspirations come way short of 10 second quarters on my daily driver, but i do have a 14 second car that gets 25mpg and more on the freeway, and gets rubber in third, and it cost me about 4k or so and im getting 190-215? rwhp, and thats enough to make me happy while i graduate to the next level of this fuel injection plus turbo thingee...

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i dont mind that you keep doing this Bob, i know that your kinda in a Z family way are looking out for me.

BUT... I do know about SR20's, even more then i know about Z32's and i know enough about them.

But like i said before i did have about 10K to spend but i now have student loans and i also got my hands on some other money, so know my budget is near 16k.

I figure thats enough for atleast a Stock runing RB26 Z swap. Heck im still on he idea of a Sr20DET Z car.

I dont have a L28.. i had a 240Z motor and a 240Z, but both were sold not that long ago, I now have no old Z car, and I have been looking for one sense i sold my last one. The other Z was too much of a problem and i rather start with one thats in better shape. plus i made a good sale on it.

So right now I have enough money to do whatever swap I wanna do.

I dont plan on builing this car in 2 month like me and my friend did on his old car so the reasons why i keep changing my mind is, i want to do it right and do something i know will be different and fun.

This project is for me any dad to do, heck i even might give him the car when we are done with it, so making this thing come out right is on the top of my list.

But thank you again for your help and ideas.

 

Mike

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Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt

The RB26 is a far better engine than the L6 for sure, just because it is a modern day L6 (4cam DOHC). So yes you could make more power than a L6 with a RB but 400hp could be made from either engine, doing the same type of upgrades. These are the things you are going to need on a L6 or RB engine to make 400 daily driven 11 second ZO6 eating horse power. A turbo that flows about 650CFM, a fuel injector that flows about 42lb of fuel a hour (440cc) and a nice programable fuel computer that will controll ignition time will get the job done on a 4 valve DOHC or even our old school SOHC 2valve per cylinder L6's. I have had the joy of working on a Skyline when I lived in the Cayman Islands and can't wait to the day to swap a RB into the my Z or ZX but I am doing it in search of 800-1600hp on a Alcohol injected 3/4 chassie NHRA Pro car. Sure it would be cool to have the engine in a daily driver but you are looking at some work with fabricating motor mount's tranny mounts and cutting and fabricating the drive shaft. Extra money you could spend on the rest of the car but the call is all yours. Keep us in touch on the street machine. Good Luck.

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