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400HP and stock 240Z gas tank ....... Whats the best/easiest


Racin_Jason

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Hey gang smile.gif

 

Today I got under my 71 and realized that the feed and return lines are welded directly into the tank :mad: I was hoping to find a removable plate that i could modify, but that wouldnt be any fun i suppose.

 

Im not real keen on the idea of the whole 'pull tank-weld tubes' deal. I dont have a welder and it seems like alot of work. After some research through the archives I found a post about a surge tank. It looked like it was an EFI thing..but maybe could be an easier way to get my problem fixed.

 

I planned for and bought hose/AN fittings for a 3/8" feed and return. I thought this sufficient for 420Hp.

 

Bottom line...Im looking for the EASIEST way to keep my engine supplied with adequate go-juice. As of now I have the following: 140GPH fuel pump, return regulator, 35ft 3/8" socketless line and an array of socketless AN style fittings.

 

I was contemplating running a deadhead style regulator with a 3/8" feed line plumbed off the 5/16" output of the tank..although my racer buddys where quick to say "RETURN LINE!!". I just want the easiest solution to do the job. I dont need anything fancy.

 

What do you guys think?

 

Jason

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I've read all the solutions from fuel cells to weld in sumps. Dmanzo57 seemed to have a simple solution. http://photos.yahoo.com/dmanzo57. Look in folder named 240z. Basically, a 1/2 aluminum line used for new pick up, drilled in next to the sending unit. AN bulk head connector, nut, gasket etc, from Summit would work. Sending unit is removable with bayonet type retaining ring, but looks like nimble fingers are a must. This is the way I'll probably go. Why not be sure and run -8 line? I used the 1/2 vapor(?) on the top drivers side of the tank for the return. Worked for years with my Mallory 140 w/return style regulator.

John

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Well I looked through my trusty Jegs catalog and Im alittle unsure which AN fittings, etc I need to make the new pickup line. So I use a piece of aluminum tubing and I attach it to which type of fitting and how (part number would be nice here). Am I just missing the obvious here or is there a fitting made specifically FOR being mounted in a hole? :confused:

 

The idea of using the drain plug (I didnt see one under there..maybe i missed it) sounds easier. I cant think of any drawbacks other then asthetics. Any other comments on this method?

 

Thanks,

Jason

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Try going to your local hardware store(true value)and check out the Flared Fittings(don`t forget your drain plug for referance)they work great for fuel applications.SUPER SUPER easy to plum also.If you have a double flaring tool you just have to widen the line to fit the cone and as you tighten the fitting it will seal it self with the cone.these fittings i THINK are for propane applications but isn`t that what being a hybrid is all about taking something and using it to your advantage!!! :D Also they are a lot cheaper then AN fittings and do the same thing!!! They even look alike!!!! 2thumbs.gif

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One of those "so obvious I missed it" things. Sounds simple enough. Drain is at the lowest portion of the tank. BTW return line, at least in a mallory regulator must equal or be greater than the pressure line. The line on the upper left side of the fuel tank is 1/2" and works great as a return. If I use this solution I may build a shield to go around the line. Might be a little exposed under there, but maybe no more than a weld in sump.

John

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If you build a sheild around the fitting.Use JB Weld or something like it.don`t put a mig to that tank!!.. I think we all know why!! flamedevil.gif

 

Very few radiator shops will do a sump job! becaulse the tank has to be flushed with water many times and sit for as long as a week if not longer to get the fumes out....mark

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I attempted the drain plug method today. The plug hole is pretty small. By the time a suitable fitting is found I'd guess the line diameter would be 5/16 or 3/8 at best. I think the drain plug can be drilled larger, but the thought of creating a spark and subsequent explosion had me worried. So I pulled the !#$@ tank out. Not real difficult but still a pain in the butt. Now I can decide between the Dmanzo and plug method and use a healthy -8 from the start.

John

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Yea I wouldnt attempt to drill out that drain until you washed the tank out a few times ane let it sit out atleast a couple days nono.gif BOOM!!!

 

I too took out the drain plug yesterday and it looked big enough to run a 3/8" fitting in. Thats plenty for me. If it could supply all the big block super cars such as the 454 LS6 Chevelle...I think my little 355 would be feed just FINE with it. Now to find out which fitting and exactly how big we can get into it.

 

Keep us updated and I'll do the same John.

 

Jason

flamedevil.gif

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Originally posted by 660Z:

Try going to your local hardware store(true value)and check out the Flared Fittings(don`t forget your drain plug for referance)they work great for fuel applications.SUPER SUPER easy to plum also.If you have a double flaring tool you just have to widen the line to fit the cone and as you tighten the fitting it will seal it self with the cone.these fittings i THINK are for propane applications but isn`t that what being a hybrid is all about taking something and using it to your advantage!!! :D Also they are a lot cheaper then AN fittings and do the same thing!!! They even look alike!!!! 2thumbs.gif

Ignorant question coming: Whats the diff. between a flaring tool and double flaring? Found a pefrect 1/2 elbo w/ nut for flared fitting with 1/2 line.

John

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Truevalue has a wide range of fittings up to and over 1/2 dia.I haven`t checked it out for myself as of yet. But if im reading you right and it fits a 1/2 NPT then you can get a fitting that will plum 1/2in line or any combination you want.

 

P.S I looked in my summit catolog just to check and Earls and Aeroquip fitting are the exact same as Truevalue just not blue and red.I would try local stuff first becaulse that way you get to see how it will work with everything right there in front of you.also if you goof(which i have many times) they will take it back as long as its not installed. Also the fittings im talking about are hard line not swivle.(just thought i`d say that)...my opinon....Mark

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Hey Cool you found it 2thumbs.gif

you entered that one in while i was writing :D

 

anyway the flaring tool...if you`ve ever put a double flare on the end of a brake line you`ll know the tool im talking about.one part is 2 metal bars that clamps the tubing tight and the other is a upside down u clamp with a big cone to flare out the tube.

 

that`s all you really have to do...set the tube in the clamps at the correct height for the tool i guess an 1/8th above the clamps.slide on the other part and tighten until the flare matches the inside dia. of the cap (don`t forget to put the cap on the line first i have forgotten)it`s really simple!!!! just make sure you center the tool.

 

ok i just read your question again double flaring is not needed in this appication just single flare

 

Mark

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I noted the drain let out another 1/2 gallon after the pump was sucking air from the stock pick up. Let the tank air dry for a few days in the 100+ degree temps in the back yard. Stilled smelled stong fuel fumes, stuck the hose from a blower into the inlet, ran air until it smelled fresh. Real scientific, huh? Loaded the drain plug hole and drill bit with heavy grease and went REAL slow. The 3/8-18 tap recommended a 37/64 drill(yeah right, like you find one of those at the local true value Hardware) and took it real slow. Metal for the drain seemed real soft. Good. Ran in the tap also loaded with heavy grease. I'm not sure this was a safe method since I stilled smelled fumes, so I don't recommend anyone else doing this... I didn't blow myself to kingdom come, but still think getting it boiled out would be a safer way to go. Besides it's hard to drill with one foot on the tank, eyes shut, and a finger in your ear. Made a gasket from annealed copper, and the fittings are in. I used the 1/2" elbo with threads trimmed down to the height of the drain plug threads. Don't want it sticking up in the tank. Now just to run the lines to the filter, pump, regulator, and carb. Then replace my return of braided to the driver's side 1/2" fitting REAR of the tank. Plenty of flare fittings for few $$ from the local Home Depot. 25' of aluminum line. Phantom grip, and Nittos to arrive Friday. I really need a good weekend to get some work done.

John

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all sounds good 2thumbs.gif sorry you didn`t find everything at one store ( nothing worse then going from store to store).unless it`s for the basic home or lawn my home depot sucks for any of my creative needs :D ...mark

 

ps.what are you running and 1/4 mile times?

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Originally posted by 660Z:

ps.what are you running and 1/4 mile times?

:D Still on jackstands for round two. 1/2" of dust on everything...but a 383 smallblock w/215 ported Pro1 heads, 250 something .600+ 108 lsa solid roller, victor jr, demon carb, 11:1...is just around the corner. One of the definitions of being married with children: What used to take a weekend, now takes a year or more.

John

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