Nismo280zEd Posted August 31, 2002 Share Posted August 31, 2002 ok... this one will definatly get ya... aight.. I have a 1978 280z 2+2 it's had problems all summer.. been tryn' to get it reliable. so far.. i have replaced: water temp sensor head temp sensor crank pulley split fire plugs all new injectors New fuel tank numerous fuel pumps fuel pressure regulator added the rising rate regulator New NGK performance wires (cool blue ) all new vacumn lines blocked off egr valve disable accel advance thing on the side of the throttle rod that goes to the vacumn tank new altenator new fuel filter hmm i think thas all the stuff i replaced.. no wait all new timing stuff last weekend (figured while it was sitting there) the car already has on it... CAI intake, big bore TB from MSA, oh yeah.. new airflow meter also, headers, modded cam, 2.5" exhaust along w/ the other stuff i mentioned. The engine cranks... but won't turn over and then ocasionally one cylinder will fire.. w/a huge boom and blue flame out the pipe. I've checked spark.. from plugs and high tension... adjusted timing, really boggled on this one.. tired of replacing parts. any ideas would help me ALOT! oh yeah.. new cap and rotor as well ED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 31, 2002 Share Posted August 31, 2002 sounds like timing is retarded or maybe the firing order is off,just suggestions, sorry cant be there in the flesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 1, 2002 Author Share Posted September 1, 2002 OK... how exactly do you set timing when the car doesn't run? i've set it up so that at TDC the rotor is every so slightly past #1... (this is what my mechanic told me to do) is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VRJoe Posted September 2, 2002 Share Posted September 2, 2002 Make sure you set it at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Pull the plugs, turn by hand and you'll hear the air blow out the plug hole. That's how you'll know it's the compression stroke (both valves closed). Always remember that the piston hits TDC twice during the cycle. Also check that the rotor in the distributor is pointing at the number 1 plug. Been there, Done that, Banged my head for each letter in COMPRESSION STROKE FOOL. -VRJoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted September 2, 2002 Share Posted September 2, 2002 Well since you replaced the timing set, I would check the position of the distributor drive shaft that drives the oil pump. When the engine is a TDC, make sure the shaft is positioned according to a manual, or roughly just slightly left of straight up and down. Also, check the alignment of the timing marks on the dampner, and the camshaft. There should be the little v slot on the timing pulley, and the mark on the cam locating plate should be in the middle of the v notch. If all that lines up, then make sure your firing order is correct. 153624, and it is counter clockwise. One other thing to check is the air gap in the distributor. I know on ZX's, they have some little balls in there and sometimes the get loose and then there is all sorts of contact in there, and the engine doesn't care for that. If all of this is correct, your car should start no problem. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 damn!...youve replaced a lot of stuff!......at what point did this thing wack-out?(what did you do just before it went south....and what have you done after it messed up?)....s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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