Guest Anonymous Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 Cool, more GA people...I'm in Jonesboro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 I have the MSA Kit with there 1 3/4 full length headers. I run a HEI and a 6 inch fluid damper. The damper is about an inch from the rack and I would not want to have the distributor any closer to the firewall. The location is hard enough to get to the bell housing bolts as it is. I forget the distance from the crank centerline to the floor but it was lower than an 86 vette. I had to notch the cross member to clear my 7 qt flat oil pan. I think the kit is excellent and it does work with the headers which is why I bought it. To make real power you need the 1 3/4 headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauisnow13 Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 The JTR kit puts the oil pan too close to the road, which causes for severe problems along the way. Just watch for that, ESPECIALLY if your roads are like mine and have dips or awkwardly angled roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 The JTR kit puts the oil pan too close to the road, which causes for severe problems along the way. Just watch for that, ESPECIALLY if your roads are like mine and have dips or awkwardly angled roads. u do realize that this thread is from 2002 dont u? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iraqlou2007 Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 u do realize that this thread is from 2002 dont u? hehe Better late than never Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 The JTR kit puts the oil pan too close to the road, I know this thread is old, but this information is incorrect. My pan is more-or-less level with the crossmember, perhaps a bit higher by a fraction of an inch. The exhaust system after the collectors is the lowest point by about an inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jreeb Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Cool, more GA people...I'm in Jonesboro. Cool, I'm in Ellijay, I am doing a early 260, with the msa kit, The motor is a built LT1 383, with a D1sc and a 4l60. The motor is done, now gotta get the 12 pt cage in and stiffin this baby up. GA guys need to meet up. WOW ,2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Cool, I'm in Ellijay, I am doing a early 260, with the msa kit, The motor is a built LT1 383, with a D1sc and a 4l60. The motor is done, now gotta get the 12 pt cage in and stiffin this baby up. GA guys need to meet up. WOW ,2002 Holy Cow dude, that should fly! My 280z LT1/4l60e is pretty much stock...for now. I would just like to get this thing road worthy before GA winter, LOL, Hits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chiropractor Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 I love seeing these threads come back to life. Seems that when deciding which kit to use, the engine position is always a bone of contention among members. On another "old" thread I read recently, there was discussion about whether or not to modify an original Scarab-built car. (NOT just a kit) As the arguments ensued, Mike Knell (of JTR notoriety) was kind enough to remind everyone that the main reason for his design choice mounting the engine in the rearward position was mainly so that he could use the T5 or T56 transmission with proper placement of the shifter through the stock location. It seems that all of the different kits have their own merits. Mike says in his own book that if you had a Scarab style conversion you could pare down the weight of the V8 with aluminum heads and such, move the battery to the rear of the vehicle, etc. to acheive the desired weight distribution. The JTR kit happens to have its own benefits in the area of better engine cooling, better transmission fitment possibilities, and of course, the better engine placement. I know that there are many out there using the JCI and MSA kits who are quite happy with them. Personally, I am switching from Scarab conversion to JTR in order to switch from 4spd to 5spd. I gotta admit, I hated cutting off that hood latch though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Personally, I am switching from Scarab conversion to JTR in order to switch from 4spd to 5spd. I gotta admit, I hated cutting off that hood latch though.... I switched from a Scarab set to JTR too. My reason for using JTR was mainly engine/tranny placement. My new engine is an LT1 so I didn't have to mess with the hood latch, no distributor to interfere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustin280zx Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Cool, I'm in Ellijay, I am doing a early 260, with the msa kit, The motor is a built LT1 383, with a D1sc and a 4l60. The motor is done, now gotta get the 12 pt cage in and stiffin this baby up. GA guys need to meet up. WOW ,2002 If you want to drag race it more (which it seems with a 12 pt.) then why don't you just get a F1r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.