alsil Posted March 8, 2003 Share Posted March 8, 2003 AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Hey guys, what's up. Now that's out of my system, I'll give you a bit of news and I have a question. First, the news: I pulled apart the front end of my motor today. As you all know (or maybe not) the engine conked on me in the driveway (thank god there, and not on the road!), and I had to keep it in the garage for a while. Well, I had a free morning today, so I decided to tear into it. I had checked it out a few weeks ago, thinking maybe I could narrow the search for the problem down. I turned over the motor, and the belt was turning. So i knew the crank wasn't toast. I popped the dist. cap and turned it over, didn't move. CRAP. So i grabbed the rotor and tried to move it (thinking maybe the dist. shaft had broke or the gear broke) and it was solid. So that left me with 2 possibilities - the cam snout broke, or the timing chain broke. So when I tore it apart, to my suprise, the timing chaing was still on the cam snout. after closer inspection, I decided to unbolt the cam sprocket and see what was up. it fell off in my hand. THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE SPROCKET TO THE END OF THE CAM BROKE!!!!!! This is what it sounded like when I found that out: http://zcar.netdojo.com/simpson.wav As you can hear, I was upset. The sprocket had popped off, and bent the pin on the end of the cam down. And now for the questions: 1. Can you replace the pin on the end of the cam, or is it welded or a solid part of the front of the cam? 2. Is the 1995 5.0 a free-spinner? If not, forget the first question, because the valves and pistons are probably toast. So that's the deal. If this means I have to do anything more than replace the pin on the end of the cam and put it back together, I'm just going to pull the whole engine, I have had too many problems with it to even consider replacing anything else on it, after already doing valvesprings, headgaskets, oil pump, timing chain.....who knows what else on my 70k mile 5.0 will blow up! Anyone know if Central Coast Mustangs is still around? They had GT40P motors (long blocks) for like $1800 a while back, that's what I'd really liek to go for, 320 hp with EFI, wonder what that would translate to with a carb! Thanks for your help everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwink25 Posted March 8, 2003 Share Posted March 8, 2003 Sorry I can't answer any of your questions Alsil. But, I hope everything works out for you. I torn into my 280ZXT engine to find a crack in the head by the timing chain. I was hoping for a quick rebuild but,I need a turbo rebuild as well,so I can see the $$$ starting to add up. You might try picking up a Mustang 5.0 mag. They have lots of crate engines in them. Good luck! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 8, 2003 Share Posted March 8, 2003 Yes, you can drive the pin out of the front of the cam with a drift pin. Sorry to hear about this. Keep us informed on your follow-up. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted March 8, 2003 Author Share Posted March 8, 2003 problem is, I would have to pull the cam to do that. Which means pulling all the rocker arms / pushrods / lifters and intake, pulling the cam (after pulling the hood for clearence).....i dunno.....I'm really tempted to just get a new motor. also, is it a free spinner (no risk) motor? I'm not sure, I know the comp ratio on these motors is 9.0:1, but that doesn't mean that it won't make contact. The stock '95 cam isn't that small, I'm really worried that if I pull the cam and do that work, it still won't run right because of cylinder sealing issues...... Anyone know? I'm really digusted with this motor now, but it will be quite a while before I can shell out $2k for a motor.....but I can wait. It's safely stored in my garage, so no problems with letting it sit.....thinking about stripping it down and having it painted now, maybe just save up $5k for both, and have it done, then drop the new motor in then. I also want to redo the steering linkage so that I can use the other header, only need 1/2"!!!! I dunno, I've had lots of obstacles with this car, including running out of money and almost selling it...crazy. anyway, if anyone knows about if it's a free-spinner, let me know. I might consider trying to fix this motor if it is, but it's getting a new motor after paint!!!!!! Thanks! Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted March 8, 2003 Share Posted March 8, 2003 Pull the vave covers to see if any of your rocker arms are loose and rattle around. this would be a good indication of bent valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted March 9, 2003 Author Share Posted March 9, 2003 OK, I'm going to go out and pop the valve covers before I go any further with this motor. One question, if I do replace the pin, where do I get it from? Do I just go to a parts store and pick one up? Thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 9, 2003 Share Posted March 9, 2003 You may be able to pull the pin out from the front. I would notch the pin so that a set of vise-grips can hold it real well without slipping off (the pin is screwed anyway), then use the head of a screwdriver to wedge between the vise-grip and the cam, and drive the pin out this way. I've never tried this but it's a shot. Finding a pin: if nothing else, go find another Ford cam and use that pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted March 9, 2003 Author Share Posted March 9, 2003 Well, I actually got pin out pretty easily. I just bent it back up and grabbed it with a pair of vise-grips and it came right out. When I pulled the valve covers all teh rockers were tight. So I'm going to find a pin, put the timing chain back on, and runa compression check. If all teh cylinders are good, then I'll put it back together and see what happens. Thanks for the help! Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRAYZ Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 hey al with the stock cam and heads all roller cam 302's free wheel interferace happens around .500 or more adv. valve lift. and yes central coast still sells them,also check speedomotive,as well as dss.inc.(dssracing.com)better perfomace per.dollar, but that depends on what you want to do power wise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted March 10, 2003 Author Share Posted March 10, 2003 Well I got the new pin,a dn I'm going to try doing a compression check in a little bit. If it is a free spinner then I'm probably OK. Although I will be worried about what will go wrong next on the motor. thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 keep your chin up Al, this is just a little speed bump here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted March 11, 2003 Author Share Posted March 11, 2003 Yea, I already have the timing chain back on, gonna get the gaskets for the front cover later, had to take care of some stuff. Hopefully this time tomorrow it will be running. Thanks! Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clint78z Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 Hate to sound like a pain in the butt, but cams just don't break or fail unless something is else is solid. Something caused the end to snap, best to find out what that was. My brother did a 302 and the dummies gave him wrong spings causing the valves not to close properly, it snapped the end on the cam. While everything is apart I would pull the heads and check for bent valves. Yes it's extra time and 3 head gaskets, but me I hate doing things twice (it usually bites you in the butt at the worst time). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted March 13, 2003 Share Posted March 13, 2003 Al, bummer dude! Hey if you decide to get a new longblock I'll have to vouch for the GT-40 with Aluminum heads. I've had ZERO problems. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 hook up the timing chain and do compression test before putting it back together.that way if motor is toast you did lose as much time/money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.