Hitman47 Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Im interested in seeing the differant times with the differant setups , I need to get a realistic 1/4 1/8 and 60 foot for my z, Can you all please list. Engine type/Tranny, rearend, Tires and wieght of car. Please guys awnser this it will only take a second and it will help me out tremendisouly. I need to get a realistic 1/4 1/8 and 60 foot for my z when im done Thanx so much guys Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Chad I'm running a 305 w/tuned port injection and 700R4 trans. Car is 2500lbs w/o me (2700 race ready). 60ft 1.84 w/ 245/60/14 radial TA's 1/8th is 8.20's @ 83mph and 1/4 is 12.920's @ 104mph. I have alum heads and headers now but it ran 13.1's @102 with stock iron heads and ram horn manifolds. Just a stock '86 TA bottom end w/ Crane's Powermax 2040 cam and adj fuel press reg. 3.54 and 3.7 rear give me about the same times. 2100-2300 at 60mph w/ the overdrive trans. I'll go 350 eng later but its fun beating some of the Ford five-O guys with GM's slow motor. Good luck w/ your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanzo57 Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 '72 240Z, ~2725 lbs at starting line 383ci small block Chevy 200-4R 4-speed auto trans R200 open diff, 3.55 gears 235/60-15 BFG drag radials on 15x8 wheels 60': 1.77 1/8: 7.43 @ 93.24 1/4: 11.58 @ 119.61 Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660Z Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 73 240z 400 sbc stock turbo350 trans,w/11" converter r200 w/3.54 14" rims w/dr radials 60` 1.9 walking out 1/8 forget right now? 1/4 12.5 @107 Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 my friend paul ran the following in the 1/8th with his 240Z at the track at eatonton, ga: 60': 1.48 1/8: 6.89 mph: 101 this time was his best with the 377 (on the motor, no nitrous) that's now in my street car. he was using slicks and a welded up 3.90. [edit] tranny is a turbo 350 with a 10" converter (b&m holeshot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitman47 Posted March 18, 2003 Author Share Posted March 18, 2003 Thanx guys for responding, i noticed you all had auto tranny`s, do you think i could get better times on a manual...Im a pretty good drag driver, i know that the autos are more realiable when it comes to shifting but how about launching? How is your guys trannys built up aftermarket tq converters? Also is traction an issue? Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 60 foots and drag times will be better with a good auto and stall . Just make sure your stall and cam are working in the same range. I just installed a 3000 stall in my 700r4 and am hoping for 1.7 to 1.6 60 foots. I also have 235/60/15 BFG drags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rick Johnson Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 What torque converter did you have and what 60 foot and 1/8 mile time did you run with that setup. I am considering a swap from a 2200 stall to a 3000 stall and am wondering what to expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanzo57 Posted March 19, 2003 Share Posted March 19, 2003 Chad, I think a manual trans has the potential to go quicker since it's more efficient than a auto trans. My best time to date was with a stock converter. I did not have a traction problem with that combo. Since then, I switched to a 2200 RPM converter and then had traction problems. As soon as get a roll bar installed, I'll try for a better time. I think I can get my 60' time down around 1.60. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted March 19, 2003 Share Posted March 19, 2003 Chad Manual is definetly more fun but i wouldn't take it to the track too often unless you put a lot of quality stuff in the driveline(=$). if your tires are hooking, you'll have to ride the clutch at each start($) and better have the cv axle conversion or else you'll bust a lot of axles($).(not to mention its hell on the unibody). if not hooking, the lack of slippage will light your tires up which leads you back to riding the clutch. A guy at the local track takes his 13 sec stock driveline mustang and dumps the clutch at 5k rpm with slicks on it. Makes me cringe everytime i see him do it. DOH Manual =good for road courses, around town, and Automatics= good for drag strips, around town, and of course I'm cheap and lazy so for me automatic (plus i already had it) Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 19, 2003 Share Posted March 19, 2003 HITMAN47; Here, have some fun with this (Claimed accurate within 5 percent). You can plan your "Build" around the data. http://www.prestage.com/carmath/ Ya, my mom once quipped to me as I was going out the door "You're just building that car for your own amazement" .....LOL. And ya' know, no truer words were ever spoken. Anyway, I was raised on standard tranny's and they are the most fun to have because they meld you with the engine and are the original "man stuff". Later the women came in and complained so, the auto was born. Now many men are lazy but don't know it and were raised on the auto. However the auto has been made to serve it's purpose with modified cars and sure saves the trans gears (unlike speed shifting a manual). The bottom line is that at the strip you race a clock and your time has no if's, and's or buts about it. On the street you can let your mind wander over all the possibilities as to why you won or lost. Street racing is a very loose situation and full of variables for the novice ..... in essence therefore , it is big time fun. To me, the strip is a cut and dried situation originally generated by city fathers to "Get those kids and their cars off the streets". Well, you can't legislate human nature so it has not done the job but only partially. Understand that the strip is now big business and is run like a business by businessmen. If you want to run with that sort of mindset then you belong there. If you want to remain a free spirit you will stay with the street as a primary release for your adrenalin. As for me, I don't want anybody pulling a string on me about my car .... just get lined up here beside me and we see just what you got! ..... I wouldn't have it any other way and originally and basically that's what it's all about in the first place and always has been and always will be! And don't start wimping and bleeding all over the place about the words Dangerous and Reckless. Men are Men and will act like men no matter what. If a man determines to do this or that with his car, just get out of the way so he can do it because he is thrilling to the game of life and that's what it's all about! Anyway, about transmissions: Standard tranny's for the street? Take your pick. 3,4,5,6 speed, the're all there and serve different purposes according to the car build and power available at the rear wheels. We are going to use what WE think is good, (and what we think is good IS good) right? But ..... if you want to get to the nitty gritty about the trans and what a proper selection can really do in your case then it becomes another matter entirely! The first rule is to get a trans that has the ratios best suited for the distance or distances you want to shine in. Use the URL above to sort things out. Decide on a top speed and fit all else in between that figure. I feel that it takes about 200 milliseconds (200ms) to make the fastest/safe speed shift possible. It's easy to see that the more shifts the more time is lost overall. Therefore, rule 3, figure in as few gear changes as possible to reach max speed while at the same time maintaining maximum accelleration according to the power/torque band of the engine (which is mostly dictated by the cam you have chosen). Now, this begins to get complicated and I am not writing a book here so ..... we switch to the auto trans where we compare the time lost in total shifts between the standard way and the auto way. I figure the auto shifts in about 100-150ms and never misses, while the standard does 200ms with danger. The conclusion is that the auto will put you ahead of the game every time by at least 150ms overall (3 shifts x 50ms lost/shift with a 4 speed). But the converter weighs around 40lbs and sucks power and accelleration forces so what to do about that? Well, the thinkers are going Powerglide (cake and eat it too). One quickest/safe shift and minimum reciprocating mass loss! And so briefly, there is your answer about the current transmission thing. A generalization to be sure, but the idea here was to show your mind the general setup of thinking involved. The transmission is extreemly important if you want to get the max out of your combination, and wisely set up will put your bumper ahead of the other guy in many cases where otherwise you would have lost! The beauty of the whole thing is that you actually know what you are doing in that area and if you have lost then the reason is much more clear to you as to which part of the car needs improving. Driver aside, the engine, trans, rearend and tires are all equally tied together and none exceeds the other in importance! I repeat, NONE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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