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LS-1 Briguy280z Update 3-30


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Posting update

 

Weekend was very successfull!!

 

The 5V square wave circuit for the PCM worked perfectly...ran for a whole 1 min..Whoot

 

Air Pump works

2 Speed Tarus fan works

Electronics works

Converted Power Steering pully works

Drive shaft is in

Brakes work

Clutch works

 

Things to do!

Find some OBDII Cats and complete the exhaust system.

Tires and Wheels - Using ARW 17x7.5 Estrella with Nitto 450 225x45x17

Paint

BAR Registered....cant wait

 

Check out some Pics...Any requests i can try to get some more pics to help

 

http://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z/

 

This forum has been a real tool for this project...thanks to everyone

Briguy280z

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HEY! - hold on a minute. You absolutely cannot finish yours before I finish mine. Wouldn't be fair.

 

Technically, I did drive mine. But only around the block.

 

That is a really nice shop.

 

Looks like you have your motor centered left to right - maybe pass. side by a 1/4 inch or so (using photoshop and the pulley to radiator hole measurements). How'd you get that A/C compressor to fit? Didja modify the bracket?

 

I dig that OEM relay box. Is that from an FBody?

 

I tried getting an FBody upper rad hose - but nobody had one to sell me. Had to cludge one together.

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Hehe you better keep up Jeromio!!

 

I do have a nice place to work in and the tools to use. One thing i realized is that a plasma cutter will cut time in half for cutting the old mounts out and other things too.

 

It's about a 1/4 of an inch to the pass side. This was a very tight fit. I only have about an 1/8 of an inch between the frame and the compressor and a 1/4 to clear the stearing rod...maybe less :(

 

I cut the compressor bracket as much as i could go with out it touching the engine. I have about 1/8 clearance between the rear oil fill bolt. I think i started with cutting 3/8" off the bracket and then grinded untill it was as perfict. One problem with doing this is that you will have to fill the tentioner hole and drill and tap a new one. Its too close and will hit the compressor pully. I did have to go half size on the belt, sucks cuz they cost twice as much as regular size belts. I got that idea from a thread in this forum.

 

The relay box is from a late model GEO...I don't recommend using it though because it took about a day to see how it works. I cant use 2 relays in the box cuz of the way they are routed. I use it for the PCM power, fan relay, air pump and air pump solinoid. I used it for the fuses also. I had a 280zx relay box which would of worked a little better i think?

 

I dont think this is an f-body radiator hose...It took about 4 trips to Autozone but finally came up with one that would fit. Real tight on the radiator side but perfict on the engine. I dont know the # off hand but i will look and see what it is.

 

Thanks for the support :2thumbs::2thumbs:

 

Briguy280Z

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Looked over your photos. Nice install. Am I correct in that you've forgone having AC? It looks like you have an idler on the drivers side above your alternator. That is the same location where my AC compressor is mounted.

Also looks like you used the stock exhaust manifolds? I know Lone Star 1 used them on his install. How did you work out the interference between them and and the steering arm?

Keep it up! I'm now just 5 weeks from mine being fully operational.

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You missed the disussion we had above. He's got the stock FBody bracket (on the passenger side) modified to allow the compressor to fit. This is the same thing I am doing. I started to mod my bracket, but set it aside. I don't even have a condenser yet anyway.

 

Also, the stock manifolds in my install (I'm sure much like BriGuy's) clear the steering shaft by about 1/4 inch.

 

I guess I should take some more photos of my install to compete. Although I doubt anyone will be following in my footsteps with the modded crossmember.

 

I am close - very close. Started hooking up my guages Sunday - got too damn cold though (couldn't feel my fingers after awhile). All the wire connectors are soldered on - just have to connect the guage "pods" to the circuit board and then calibrate them. Of course that will take much longer than it should because I will undoubtedly run into some wiring gremlins along the way. I am also crossing my fingers on the oil pressure thing. Really really do not want to have to take the motor apart. Really.

 

Then it's hood re-install and test drive. I also need to cover up the spare tire hole (wish I had a plasma torch!), then a good thorough inspection. I have already noticed a slight leak at the front right brake line (gonna have to reflare that one).

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