Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 I'd like to hear others' opinions on the matter, I'm going to replace the fuel lines on my '73 240z. I'm installing a new electric fuel pump (ditching the mechanical pump), rebuilt SU carbs, a fuel regulator, as well as new filters etc. So with that I figured it would be best to upgrade the old lines, but what material? I've heard good and bad about all the types.. here's what I'm in market for: Summit Aluminum 3/8" line (25'-$21) Summit Hard Steel 3/8" (25' $23) Summit SS line 3/8" (20' $31) Aeroquip Socketless AQP -8 AH (20' $60) Of course there are others, but those are main ones... It would be nice not to have to bend the lines by using the aeroquip fittings, how much does a bender cost? It might just be worth it to go for the socketless hose. For these fuel needs, I don't need anything Hi-Po, just something solid, perhaps trackworthy (SS I wonder). I want to show a little foresight- there might by a small block v8 in her future. It would be nice not to have to buy fuel lines again. However, I'm basically broke in college, and I just need a cheap quick solution. Easy and cheap are the priorities- any ideas guys? TIA -980mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Do not use aluminum fuel lines. They will fatigue and may break. That stuff is very soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Do not use aluminum fuel lines. They will fatigue and may break. That stuff is very soft. Mark, I respectfully disagree. If the ally fuel lines are secured and buffered correctly, they will last practically forever. They are also easy to bens and flair....easier than any other material. I wouldn't ever hessitate using aluminum lines. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 If the ally fuel lines are secured and buffered correctly, Tim I agree with you but that is a big if. If not done correctly the results are not pretty. Hard lines or braided SS lines are much less techinque sensitive as far as the install goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 If the ally fuel lines are secured and buffered correctly, Tim I agree with you but that is a big if. If not done correctly the results are not pretty. Hard lines or braided SS lines are much less techinque sensitive as far as the install goes. Agreed, but the ease of bending and flaring definitely outweighs the extra effort involved in securing the lines properly. A handfull of rubber insulated 'P' clamps is all that is needed. You would want to put the same amount/type of effort into SS or steel lines anyways. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 I've done four cars with Aluminum lines and they can be done easily, but as Mark said, Can be catastrophic. I'd make damned sure the lines don't make contact or rub against anything, including the underside of the car or suspension. Make sure you rubber mount EVERY inch that contacts a mount point. If not, you will rub through the aluminum and sprout a leak. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Another counterpoint - I spent $35 on a roll of SS line. It's in the junkpile now, along with my $35 bender (which broke). Very, very, very difficult to work with. I ended up going with aluminum. I didn't do any flares though. I used ferule connections. My lines are pretty well secured, so I'm not worried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2003 Share Posted April 1, 2003 Thanks for the replies guys, I'll probably go with aluminum based on all your experience, but I will make sure its done right. Because I don't especially want to buy and deal with a bender, I'll probably stick with bent connectors also. Relatively cheap and easy, I do like the nice straight look. I'm pretty sure I know what is meant by the 'P' type insulator mounts. I can get a handful of them cheap at a local hardware store, and probably the aluminum line too. I'll let everyone know how it goes, but then again it could be a year before I know if there are any real problems By the way, is there anything I should do the make sure the Su's have equal fuel pressure to both, aside from just using a T-splitter? I most likely won't be using the stock fuel rails. I appreciate the help from all of you.. -980mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 2, 2003 Share Posted April 2, 2003 Thanks for the replies guys' date=' I'll probably go with aluminum based on all your experience, but I [b']will[/b] make sure its done right. Because I don't especially want to buy and deal with a bender, I'll probably stick with bent connectors also. Relatively cheap and easy, I do like the nice straight look. I'm pretty sure I know what is meant by the 'P' type insulator mounts. I can get a handful of them cheap at a local hardware store, and probably the aluminum line too. I'll let everyone know how it goes, but then again it could be a year before I know if there are any real problems By the way, is there anything I should do the make sure the Su's have equal fuel pressure to both, aside from just using a T-splitter? I most likely won't be using the stock fuel rails. I appreciate the help from all of you..-980mak Even with aluminum, I highly recommend that you use a bender. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 there is a company that sells prebent replacement fuel lines for the z's in ss and regular steel. i cant remember the name but price is an issue, like 200 i think for a set of ss ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 You can buy a bender at Fleet Farm for pretty cheap. I can't remember the cost exactly. Don't let the cost of the bender be the deciding facting in doing the job right the first time. Remember the old saying..."there is never enough time($$$) to do it righ the first time but there is alwasy time($$$) to do it twice" Don't do it wrong the first time because you were to "cheap" to buy a bender! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 Get a tube bender like this, they work very nicely: Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 I did mine in aluminum and I'm glad I did. I used the original rubber mounts, just drilled them out bigger. It was a pain on my back with dirt falling in my face but I would have never gotten it done with stainless. It would have looked just like Jeromio's pile. I did it with the tranny, engine, rearend, and driveshaft in. I think even if you buy the pre-bent stuff you would have to remove the driveshaft at least. If you're thinking there's a V8 in your future use 3/8" supply and return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 I had a very nice bender just like the one Tim showed. Snapped that sucka. Just say no to stainless.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest freakypainter Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 i vote aluminum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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