Guest EnthuZiast Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 Well, my car is having issues with starting. And I am having trouble diagnosing the problem. So, I'll describe it to you guys and hope that you guys are smarter than me (and I think you are). The car will start up when i turn the key, but many times after I run the car for a while and then turn it off, it won't start back up again. I look at the ampmeter and the reading is lower than when I first got into the car. It goes from being a little above 14V to a little below 14V and it won't even try and turn over the engine. (I make sure that all electronics are off when I do all this.) So, there are a few things I think could be wrong: A. There is a problem wsith the battery. (I know this is not the case as I replaced the battery a few days ago and the problem remains.) B. There is a problem with the starter. (I think this is not the case becasue when I jump start the car it starts right up. It is clearly a problem with getting enough power from the battery) C. There is a problem with the alternator. (I'm not very familiar with the alternator, but it seems that the battery is just not getting charged up enough when I run the engine.) Another thing that I take into account is that if I try to start the car and it won't start, if I wait for a good deal of time and come back to the car, it always starts up. This is what really confuses me and lead me to think that it was not a problem with the alternator initially. That is all I can think to say about the problem. Any and all suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Noah (1979 280ZX) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 I'm thinking starter, heat soak shouldn't be a problem since there is no exaust routing near the starter, but they can go bad. The alternator is easy to rule out, with a multimeter running, raise the RPMs and see if your voltage raises as well. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EnthuZiast Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 I believe that when I rev the engine, the volts reading remains the same. The meter bounces a little when I turn on and off any electronics, but it settles out to whatever it was at before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EnthuZiast Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 When I turn on the engine, the volts go up and stay up as long as the engine's on. So, I am fairly certain that the alternator is working. Is it possible that the alternator isn't fully working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted April 4, 2003 Share Posted April 4, 2003 If the voltage is going up even at idle, then I guess it is sufficient RPM to drive the alternator, some cars do some dont. Usually its automatics that dont have enough RPM at idle to charge the battery. If everything is connected, and your grounds are good, then I would think the alternator to be fine from the sounds of what your saying. Have you tried driving around at night with the lights on? That will eat the battery fairly quickly, if it isn't charging, but with the voltage coming up it sounds like its charging just fine. There is some chance that the battery itself is no good, even though relatively new. Some batteries, especially if "abused" by being run low etc build up crud between the plates that effects power output, I believe the fluid inside can also sludge up, but if the battery is holding charge fine then I wouldn't suspect it probably. If you have been driving the car for more than a few days without yanking the battery and putting it on a dedicated charger, then I really dont think its the battery or alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted April 5, 2003 Share Posted April 5, 2003 Do a load test on the battery(even if it`s new), it should hold at least 10.5 volts for 15 seconds. Ck or Replace both of your battery cables with HIGH QUAITY cables. If you can get a jump(direct to the battery)and the car fires up, at least it`s a good place to start. Ck The Simple Stuff First ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 6, 2003 Share Posted April 6, 2003 We seem to be getting several reports just like this in here. Connect a wire to the + terminal of your batt. With car in park/neutral, touch the other end to the little terminal on the starter solenoid. If it cranks every time you do that then the ign. switch (bad connections/corroded connector etc.) is faulty. If it does not crank then the starter solenoid is bad. PS: You say you "jumped it" and it started. Jumped the battery or the starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted April 6, 2003 Share Posted April 6, 2003 If you have 14 V on the battery with the engine running, then your alternator is working. With the engine off the voltage should read around 12 volts. If it flat "won't crank at all" after running then my guess is the solenoid. Those guys get heat and voltage sensitive when they get old. When you get in the "won't crank" stage try wedging a screw driver across the solenoid terminals (short across the large lug the battery cable connects to and the lug directly below this coming out of the solenoid into the starter). If it cranks (obviously make sure the car is out of gear before you do this) then either replace or rebuild the solenoid. Oh, and with any electrical problem the first thing to do is clean and inspect all of the battery connections, including the connectors at the other ends of the cables. "Looks clean" doesn't mean squat, unbolt the connection and take a wire brush to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted April 11, 2003 Share Posted April 11, 2003 There is one other possibility. Sometimes, not usually, but sometimes a voltage regulator will go bad in such a way it still allows the battery to charge: yet after you turn the ignition key off, the voltage regulator remains in the closed loop and this will drain your battery down over night or in a couple hours, ect. Battery, starter, & alternator problems usually go hand in hand. You have already rpl the battery & the problem still exists so I would guess the problem is not with your battery. I agree w/the previous post-check your connections between the battery, starter, & alternator....make sure there is NO corrosion. For peace of mind, you can remove both the battery, starter, and alternator & take them to Auto Zone or Oreilly's for bench testing. Then if one item fails-rpl it. If all three components test good-then your problem is else where. If you have an automatic-you will also have a neutral safety switch. When a neutral safety switch gets corroded at its connections it will often give the same symptom as the classic battery, alternator, & starter symptoms. I would begin by having Auto Zone/Oreilly's testing your battery, alternator, & starter. I believe both these parts houses have a mobile load tester they can wheel up to your car that will test all three of these items. Drive your car to them & ask them to test all three-the battery, the starter & the alternator. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heavy Z Posted April 12, 2003 Share Posted April 12, 2003 I had a very similar problem - car would start sometimes then just give you a 'click' other times. I looked everywhere for the problem with no luck. The problem may be excessive resistance that isn't allowing your solenoid to get a full charge. I am problem free now thanks to a small relay that re-routes the power, guaranteeing the solenoid is properly juiced even when hot. This should work for your situation too, mine is made by bosch but I don't have a link, this one does the same thing - look at the one called 'hot shot.' http://www.painlessperformance.com/relays.htm Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EnthuZiast Posted April 17, 2003 Share Posted April 17, 2003 Well, I'm thinking the problem is the soleniod from what everyone is saying, but I am not very familiar with the electrical system. What and where exactly is the soleniod? Thanks a lot for the help. Based on what all of you have said, i think that my soleniod is heating up and causing too much resitance. When I get a jump start, I think that more voltage is forced through and that is why it starts. Thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 17, 2003 Share Posted April 17, 2003 The solenoid is usually on your starter, what most people do is get a remote mount solenoid to combat heat problems. I've done this but still get starter heat soak anyway. I'm using a stock LT1 starter. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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