ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 Ok guys I will do it....you get to tell me how probably means putting it together myself so if anyone has any good rebuild books they would be willing to loan or anyone in ohio willing to help out that would be awesome. I want to build a reliable 383 short block to make around 400 hp if a little more is easily obtainable Ill take it but 400 is my goal. I was thinking about the 383 stroker rebuild kit from summit (anyone know of a cheaper source or better parts for the same price) Still looking for a good block that I wouldnt have to bore but thats not a big deal if I do. I was thinking about clearencing my own block for the stroker crank and rods is that a bad idea...Do I have to have the whole assembly balanced even if its going to be externally balanced. Thanks for any help. Sorry for the long post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 nitrous is a helluva lot easier and cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Author Share Posted April 10, 2003 Your lucky if you can get a nitrous kit for 400 bucks and thats for a carb setup. 400 bucks is almost enought to get a complete stroker kit...659 at paw with forged pistons moly rings.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Author Share Posted April 10, 2003 Thought I would addPAW will balance their super stock crank kits for an extra 120 dollars Im hoping that means they would do that on their stroker crank kits also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 If you can find a 400 block, and use 5.7" or even 5.65" 400 rods, and not rev above 5500 rpm, it might be easier to get to 400 hp. Lower peak rpm and you wouldn't have to worry about the crappy rod/stroke ratio or the piston side loading issues as much. Basically build a tweaked 400 stump puller engine. Heads are the key. Maybe some used S/R torquers. Of course, for 400 hp, S/R torquers would be good. More cubes help, and you wouldn't have to clearance for 5.65" rods. 5.7" rods would need to be clearanced a bit at the cam, but that's not hard. I don't know if the block would need much at all for 5.7" rods in a 400 block. Here's a recipe: 400 block (any - 4 bolts are easier to find and good enough for 400 hp, 2 bolts actually stronger) 400 crank 5.65" rods hyper pistons 9.7:1 compression Comp XE274H cam S/R Torquer heads Good dual plane manifold 750 carb I ran that through DD2000 and got: rpm - hp - tq 2000 - 154 - 404 2500 - 198 - 416 3000 - 241 - 422 3500 - 287 - 431 4000 - 327 - 430 4500 - 357 - 417 5000 - 372 - 390 5500 - 361 - 345 6000 - 331 - 290 That cam and that compression (assuming a zero decked block, .039" gasket, and 22cc dished pistons) gives 9.65:1 static and 7.88:1 dynamic compression. Not 400 hp, but the torque would impress more than a peak hp number anyway. BTW, on a 383 or a 400, the heads REALLY become the cork in the power spigot. But S/R Torquers are cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 I can help you out on some of the work and special tools. I can also help find a good donor block. PM me and maybe we can get together sometime soon. i still want the cd player we discussed, and I`ve got alot of other body stuff you might be interested in. It would probably be better if you come here so i don`t have to load, haul and unload the stuff that you don`t want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Author Share Posted April 10, 2003 Actually wont 5.7 or 6.0 rods help clear up the Rod to stroke problem. 400 blocks are non existant around here. Especially on the cheap. This short block has gotta cost as much under a grand as possible. Im not full of cash right now. Just trying to peice this together as fast as I can one part at a time. Thanks for the input or suggestions so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 Lucky? lol...nitrous kits are a dime a dozen...and if you actually do a bit of research..you can buy the individual parts you need even cheaper. The bottle itself is nearly $150 retail alone...yet are all over ebay for 50 to 75 dollars. Wouldnt be hard to put together a kit in the 200 to 250 range (or even find one for sale on some of the message boards for the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Author Share Posted April 10, 2003 well the idea is to add one of those to the engine after I build it just maybe a 75 shot....gotta have the polished bottle for looks though thats down the road... its harder to do one of those build it yourself nitrous kits though if your fuel injected which I plan to be. Plus Im a little paranoid about not having the computer controller and the purge valve and that kinda stuff. I really like the venom kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 Well, the longer rods help the rod/stroke issue, but that's not an issue below 6000 rpm. The main thing a better rod/stroke ratio gives you is less bore/piston side loading/wear. 5.65" rods will be cheaper. But if you can't find a 400 block, a 383 is almost as good and 5.7" rods will be fine but require clearancing the rod bolts and block. Nitrous is nice, but the power is only there temporarily. When the bottles down on pressure, you're back to NA power. Nitrous is great to depend on if you have a drag-only car, but for street use, I don't see it as a viable way to make power that's at the touch of the foot, at any time, over and over. Peak HP is for bragging rights anyway. A flat torque curve in the 400 lbft+ range from 2000-5000 rpm will move a 240 with alot of authority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 I'm in agreement with Pete, but I would do Vortecs over the SR. You will probably have to have them disassembled and guides reduced and new springs for the XS274 cam. But they are available used reasonably easily, just make sure and get the 5.7 and not the 5.0 heads. Actually, a complete 5.7 Vortec motor from the boneyard with an Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, same cylinder head mods, and an aftermarket hydraulic roller gets you lots of good parts and can probably be done COMPLETE for $1200 depending on your junkyard availability. IME, it is best not to try and build a stroker if $ is one of the major underlying factors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 10, 2003 Share Posted April 10, 2003 its harder to do one of those build it yourself nitrous kits though if your fuel injected which I plan to be It is? news to me Both are equally simple man....just have to think outside the box a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 10, 2003 Author Share Posted April 10, 2003 well although cost is an issue Im not planning on cutting corners. Im just buying and doing what I can as I can afford it. Im just hoping it wont take forever. Thanks for the input so far guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.