Jump to content
HybridZ

help me with my assembly


Guest FordMotherFocus

Recommended Posts

Guest FordMotherFocus

I am assembling my 355 and I got the heads on. What should I torque the head nuts to? I have the crane cams gold roller rockers and when I was taking my motor apart I didn't note the order of them. Does anybody know the order in which they go? They all have different numbers and codes stamped on them. Also, how are the different cylinders numbered? Does it start on the front left side with 1 and count back from there and back to the front right side with 5 and so on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all are you using new head bolts? If so then you wont have a problem, you just need to find out which engine that is and what heads they are(are they aftermarket?). If your not using new head bolts then you might have a problem. If those heads were originally TTY(torqued-to-yeild) then you can't reuse the bolts because they have already been stretched to their limits. However if they are not TTY then you COULD reuse them but I still wouldn't.

 

You just need to know this information before you install the heads.

 

 

Guy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beginning at the front, the drivers side is 1-3-5-7, the pass side is 2-4-6-8. The rockers don't really matter as long as they are all the same ratio. You said head nuts, are you using studs? Anyway, I'd follow the manufacturers recomendation. If they are of unknown origin, spring for a new set, and be sure and use the lube they recomend.

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest FordMotherFocus

i looked it up in my engine rebuild book and they recomended tourqing them to 65 pounds. I think the rockers are different ratios because of the different numbers stamped on them. I know someone has these rockers and know the answer to my question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest FordMotherFocus

Half of them have 11- 165 and the other half have 11-1.50 stamped on them. I am guessing one is intake and one is exhaust. Which one is which?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

The rocker numbers you posted show to be: '11'=small block, the rest of it is not shown on crane's website but indications are that '165 and 1.50 are part numbers. Get on their website and go for their 'Tech Help' I am sure they will fix you up correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of the new engines use TTY specifications because it is supposedly more accurate. Its not really a kind of bolt, its just how you torque down the bolts. Like on my LT1, I torque all the head bolts down to 22ft. lbs in sequence, then I torqued the inside bolts to 80 degrees and the outside(lower) bolts to 65 degrees (in sequence again).(I think thats what it was anyways) You need a special little tool to do this accurately. You can get an attachment for your torque wrench but I used a $400 digital tool that reads out how far you are turning it as you turn your breaker bar. This is the most accurate way of doing it. The little attachment tool is really not that accurate. However it is more economically for someone who is only going to need it once or twice!

 

 

With torque-to-yeild you are stretching the bolt to its maximum holding power. With a conventional torque spec. you are only torqueing the bolt to like 75% of its holding power. So you can (most of the time) reuse those bolts. However with a TTY bolt since you have stretched the bolt to the limit you cant reuse the bolt because it will not accuratly read out on your torque wrench and you could actually snap the bolt off!

 

Know what I mean now? :D

 

 

 

Guy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was my understanding that the LS1 engines use TTY bolts everywhere, but does any SBC from an LT1 or older use these bolts?

 

When I was in the Navy I got to watch them torque the bolts on a reactor coolant pump. The torque spec on those required measuring the change in length of the bolt as it was stretched by the nut. Not something they let us lowly sailors do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FMF, the question about the rockers is a tough one. Is this a freshen of a motor you purchased from some one? If so, I'd contact them and ask how they had the rockers set up and why. Summit's catalog only show the Gold rockers in 1.5 and 1.6, no 1.65's, but they may be a special order item. You could contact Crane and ask about the part #'s, then you'd know for sure what you've got. Where they go depends on the rest of the combo, especially the cam. If the motor was built to spray, it would be a safe guess the 1.6's were used on the exhaust. Or, if they thought it was a little weak on the intake side for some reason, they could have used them on the intake. How the previous owner built it may not be what you want to do. Find out what cam you have , talk to the cam maker about the rockers ratio's. As always, but esp. when using 1.6's, check the pushrod to head clearance and piston to valve clearance.

 

What's the rest of the engine like? Heads, cam, compression, carb & intake? Sorry there's no clear cut answer, but....it depends.

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest FordMotherFocus

I bought this motor and my 75 280z from Long Ta. He is a college student down at UT. He bought the motor from Myron. I have tried getting in contact with both of them but no luck.

 

This is what Im running:

74? camaro 350 c.i. short block rebuild

Including 9.5 flat top pistons

Crower solid roller camshaft .567 lift 288 dur

Crane gold 1.65 roller rockers

Crower solid roller lifters

Trick flow pushrods

DartII heads 2.05/1.60,springs rated to .700 lift

Port matched to intake

Brodix HV1 pro bracket intake ported with heads

Fluid damper SFI balancer

high performance water pump with 160 degree thermo

MSD 6al ignition box

Holley Street Avenger 770

Summit oil pan and melling pump

Billet valve covers / Edelbrock pro-flo

Accell 8.8 mm wires/ plugs

Sanderson QP1000 Headers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FMF, that's a good looking combo. It looks like a Crower 00425 cam, which is already a split pattern cam, with a little more lift/duration on the exhaust. IMO, unless you're planning on spraying it, I don't see the need for different ratio rockers. I would call Crower and discuss it with them. You might get a hint about where the 1.65's were by looking at the pushrod holes in the head, they may be clearanced a little, the pushrods are closer to the valve when using the 1.65's.

 

That baby oughta rock!

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...