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90-91 300zxTT brake master cylinder


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I had swapped the brake master cylinder in my car to a 17/16" brake master from a 90-91 300zx(N/A or TT). I was using the stock proportioning valve and noticed on the dyno that when I used the brake the back would not stop. I learned these master cylinders are internally proportioned. So I just bypassed the stock proportioning valve and splitter and made my own break lines(3/16") with metric fittings on one end and standard on the ends where I used the "T." I also added in a Wilwood mechanical proportioning valve for the rear. I will let you know the results if I ever get the car running again!

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  • 8 months later...

hey i was just looking for info on this swap but instead i was looking at the 1990 300ZX's 1 1/16th MC. They had 2 different ones, Neapco (17/18ths or somthing) and tokico (1 1/16th's). There may be a probem with the center bore of the booster, but otherwise it should be a better setup the smaller as long as you are running rear disk. It also is set up more like the stock I beleve. I was reading an article for this swap in a 240sx. Only downside is it is bubble flair going into master cylinder. let me know whats going on, I couldnt find any updates on your set up yet.

 

Ryan

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What is the rule of thumb for sizing master cylinder bore to caliper piston diameter. I know that increasing the master relative to the caliper will give a firmer pedal, and vice versa, but is there some rule of thumb, or is it all trial and error?

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I am running the 15/16" bore early 280ZX (I ordered for a 1980) master with 280 zx rear calipers and 4 piston Superlites on the front (don't know the bore sizes for the calipers :oops: ), and in initial testing, I have more than adequate braking and pedal action....

Tim

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