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turbocharging a V8...


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Guest Anonymous

I have a carb'd 350 out of an old Nova. I was wondering what mods would need to be done to turbo-charge it. Any suggestions, comments,...

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Guest tt350

I would defintely inject it.

 

It could be done pretty cheaply (im doin this myself, so ive read alot, but i AM an amtuer).

 

This is my setup:

 

350 4 bolt main with one-peice rear main seal

Brodix heads (23 degree)

Corvette fuel injection (still lookin for one)

Hydraulic cam and lifters

Howard Aluminum race rods (6 inch, makin it a 377)

Steel crank (still lookin for one)

Turbo dish pistons (still lookin) 8-8.5:1 compression

 

Then Id run the setup through a single truck turbo (i think they are called the fx440's or something like that), to the intercooler (i have an old volvo right now, not sure if it fits), then straight into the injection. This setup should be good for about 500 horses, then im gonna have to switch the injectors to something bigger.

 

My main problem is getttin a good computer (ECU) that is capable of controllin all that. Im lookin at the E6 right now, but I dont think the MS will work for me (i need boost control).

 

Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.

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Guest 1320the260

don't forget about the paxton i think it is, carb bonnet or whatever. its an enclosure that completely seals and pressurises the carburetor. it was originally designed for their superchargers but muslce mustangs and fast fords did an article on one with a turbo, over 790 HP on a small block with a turbo, carburetor, and that thing (plus an air to water intercooler/aftercooler) it would not be hard to turbo that carbureted car and keep it efficient!

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Guest tt350

Really, i never heard of that before.

 

Im defintely gonna look into that one. Does Paxton still make that. Sheesh, that would save me a boat load of money and dyno pulls! Plus i can just forget about all the ECU crap.

 

Id really like to know more about this, if you have specifics, feel free to feed us.

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Guest tt350

Thats is a sweet lookin setup! I like it, but....

 

 

Anyone know if that REALLY helps? or does it just help a little. I mean I want to run HIGH boost, so im not sure if a carb can take it. My goal for now is around 700-800 hp, so, can this thing handle it.

 

If it can, ill definetly switch to carb, until I can afford getting a Motec m48. :D

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Guest tt350
don't forget about the paxton i think it is, carb bonnet or whatever. its an enclosure that completely seals and pressurises the carburetor. it was originally designed for their superchargers but muslce mustangs and fast fords did an article on one with a turbo, over 790 HP on a small block with a turbo, carburetor, and that thing (plus an air to water intercooler/aftercooler) it would not be hard to turbo that carbureted car and keep it efficient!

 

Heh, Im issed your post, sorry. Small Block ford or Chevy. Checy should put out more than that, and Im happy with that. Do you think its still possible to use nitrous with that setup?

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Hot Rod magazine has tested the vortech version a couple of times. They got 500hp from the chevy 4.3 V6 and 675hp from a chevy 383, so i don't know if 7-800 is doable or not. they blew a head gasket on the 4.3 when they revved it too much on 12psi of boost.

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that system Vortek has is not a new system, much prettier but not new. Yes the system does work, but to do it right you really need to set the bottom end up correctly to run boost.

You will need a turbo piston to save the top ring from gettind burned, and I would suggest the high silicone content type forging. With that piston you will be able to set the piston to cylinder clearance to about 2 1/2 thousands and not the standard 5-6 thousands for the other type piston. the thing about that piston is the clearance being so sloppy, makes a street car a little less fun to drive. You need to heat the engine up correctly to get the expansion of the piston and the cylinder when it is hot and that takes a little time, it is not just jump in the car and go like hell from the start. The high silicone material relieves that challenge significantly.

The next thing that would benefit you significantly is to change the rod to stroke ratio. Try for at least a 1.7:1 ratio, and if you can swing it without setting the wrist pin under the oil ring a 1.75:1 rod to stroke ratio. The bottom end will handle the added power much better and you will gain power that way.

To finish off the block, go with a 4 bolt main, and main cat studs, ARP makes them. Then you will want to at least stud the cylinder head bolts, and if you like go with orings, but I dont think that is really needed unless you are going really crazy with it. Fet a good set of heads that will flow some good numbers, and I dont really have a suggestion on those as there are so many choices now and all of them are very good parts. Hydrolic lifters are not a good idea if you are going to turn the engine to 7K or higher, go with solid lifters and avoid pumping up the lifter issues. Use guide plates for the push rods and a good set of roller rockers would be a good idea, stay with the standard 1.5:1 rocker ratio and get your lift from the cam. The higher rocker ratios tend to want to put more side loading on the valve. Use 120 pound springs, Isky has some very good products in that area.

Then for the carb I would suggest the holly perdator carb as you will be able to change the flow of the carb and the fuel flow rates easier as you get the boost bug and want more.

The thing to keep in mind is that if you go overkill on the parts and build a beefy engine, you will be ahead in the end in my opinion. Then all you have to do is figure out how you are going to put all that power to the ground and not up in smoke LOL

just some of my thoughts.

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