jeffp

looks like a ford exhaust turbine housing stage III.

interesting, I really never had a spool problem, or a cam problem, well except the time I compromised on the cam because the builder/cam guy thought he knew best, turns out he was wrong, ended costing me more money to do it correctly the second time, but in the end I have to say @ 3100 RPM @ full boost of 22psi was almost unmanageable, but you know water cooler talk is just that. Have fun with it take copious notes each build and one day you will get just what you want. open your wallet though, needless to say you will need more then .500 lift to start.

seems you are getting boost late. A good setup will give you 22-25psi of boost @ 3K if done right. keep working on it.

been there done that! I contacted scat enterprises a few years back and they were not willing to do a one off crankshaft. But if you get anywhere with them, expect to pay in the range of 3K to have them do a crankshaft. I did know one person that had one done and it turned out perfect, all the bells and whistles. So go for it. NOTE: don't google scat, you will be very surprised what you come up with, disgusting webpage LOL. google SCAT ENTERPRISES.

10 amp will do the trick.

Looks good to me. You will really notice the difference in the car handeling with the solid inserts. One thing: You mentioned the torque on the pinion nut after you changed the flange. 1) NEVER USE LOCKTITE on the flange nut. The nut is already staked to fit the pinion gear threads tightly. NOTE: the use of locktite will give you irronious torque readings. The reason being is that as you use the socket/ impact driver. the locktite heats up with the friction of the nut to bolt threads and sets up. 2) never just utilize the torque settings listen in the manual, they are correct, but you MUST first determine the shimming of the flange to bearing inner race to get the CORRECT bearing preloading. This point is extremely important. The correct way to do the job is to remove the diff carrier so that it is not in contact with the ring gear. Use the impact to get the bolt tight, AFTER YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL TRACES OF THE RED LOCKTITE FROM THE NUT AND THREADS ON THE PINION GEAR,torque the nut to specifications. about 125-146 foot pounds. HERE IS THE CRITICAL POINT: After you have torqued everything down, you will need an INCH POUND torque wrench to test the bearing preload. I believe the specifications are, and double check, 11-14 inch pounds. That is to say, it should take between those numbers on the torque wrench to just break the pinion loose to turn. So it should take between those numbers on the wrench as the gear starts to turn. WHAT DO YOU GET IF YOU DONT HAVE CORRECT BEARING PRELOAD????? In a nutshell, a screwed diffy gearset. Incorrect adjustment will cause noise. To tight and it will overheat the bearings, and they fail, the diffy gears are toast. To loose of torque, and the bearings will be fine, but you eat up the ring and pinion gears, and the noise also, and then take out the bearings with metal shavings from the ring and pinion. So you may get away with it, but if you are like me, it took all of about 5 good pulls on the freeway to destroy my diffy. I pulled the cover to find graphite in the oil and toast ring and pinion gears. SO you have been warned and advised. jeffP

my experience with this was almost as bad as your experience, except I drove 100miles and was buying dyno time at JWT in San Diego. Sure enough, the gear spun on a pull much like yours. So the solution is this: 1) make Damn sure the pump is not binding the shaft. Use ONLY a Nissan pump gasket. 2) remove the dist shaft, and reclock the position of the drive to the distributor. Be percise, as 1/2 a tooth off will make the distributor adjustment afterwords a little screwey. If you are as fortunate as I was, the timing on the distributor was not quite enough for the slots on the distributor. 3) drill out the gear and shaft with a 1/8" drill, and buy a 1/8" reamer to clean out the hole after you drilled it. Keep everything square and perpendicular and on center when you drill the hole. 4) buy a 1/8" precision ground and hardened pin. Press the pin into the hole you drilled and reamed. Hopefully it will be literally a squeaky tight fit. Leave about 1/16" longer pin on each side of the gear. Use a dremel if needed to cut the pin to the correct length on each side of the gear. 5) using a good ball peen hammer, set the gear, specifically the pin, on a hard piece of metal, a good mill vice works excellent. Start tapping one end of the pin, and you will be able to mushroom over both ends of the pin. No more gear slip problems. Now in addition to the repair of the gear andrive , I also recommend installing the bronze oil pump drive gear in the crank shaft, and if you want, talk to John Coffee about the mods he did to the drive. Myself, trying to tighten up the slop in the drive gears, set the cover up to stop the up and down motion of the drive gear in the cover and minimize that movement of the drive gears. The reason being is that the shaft movement up and down equated to about 2 degrees of tolerance in the timing. Now how would that be under boost @ 600hp @ 7K RPM. Marbles get into the engine and bad things start happening to the ring lands right Tony LOL. Hope that answers your question.

Tony is correct, many many dollars spent on the dyno. I have used them all, super-flo dyno-paks mustange dyno-jet above floor and in floor setups. The dyno is a cool thing to utilize to get a good idea of what your engine/car is doing. I also believe the best dyno for engines is an engine stand dyno. I never have gotten a good tune and then was ready for the street, there were ALWAYS lean spots in the RPM range. The car really needs to be on the move to tune it the best, but the dyno is a great place to start. Then with a few data logs, you can finish up the car tuning, but engines on the stand are a better representation of actual operating conditions, as you can control the air temp, and water temp in a lab like enviroment to get better tuning results. And if you have Tony around to point out various things happening during the pull, then your golden LOL.

I ran -6 line (5/16) for quite a long time in my car. I did start to have delivery issues when I pushed the engine to about 550hp. Then I started to see some trouble. The biggest thing is to get injectors sized correctly. Pushing the fuel pressure up to 4 BAR is really a tough thing to do. Most of the pumps out there just will not provide good pressure with boost added to the mx. So unless you are running some high hp numbers (well realitivity high LOL)then keep what you have. I can tell you, there are very few shops, or people who will do a good line for you. Myself, I just went to 1/2 316L seamless line. I have never had any further flow problems since.

I wouls like a set for my car. Currently I have installed the special products adjusters, but they are limited on their operation, and I have never been happy with them. Ine thing I would like to get some clarification on is , when the kit is installed, how do the half shafts look with the car on the ground. Do the shafts promote the squatting actio the ZX cars like to do, or have you taken the angle out of the shaft for the lowered cars so that it will not squat like a stock car does. I would really like to fet this part if it will fix some of the zx problems.

You know, sometimes it is better not to listen to all of the internet talk. This has been a topic of discussion time and time again. The Schnider cams are not a good buy, due to the metal and how it was hardened. Nitrating a cam is fine, but did you have the hardness tested after the procedure? For your information. when you harden two contact pieces of metal, generally speaking, one piece of metal is hardened to say 45Rc the second piece of metal hardened to 50Rc. ALWAYS and forever and a day, when you make two contact parts hard, you make the (WEAR PART) 5Rc softer then the other part, if NOT you WILL wear out one of the parts QUICKLY! Looks like to me the cam was still to soft, the rocker pads looked good, a little worn due to the soft metal coming off of the cam, but for the most part they looked good. WHY, do some of you try to defy what is already known about some products for this engine. Is is that so you can say they were wrong? Get a NISSAN CAN out of an old engine! Send that cam to ISKY CAMS and tell Ron Jeff Priddy sent you. Have ISKY grind the cam you want FROM A NISSAN OEM CAM! If you can find a RACER Brown cam USE THAT, it is a good billet. Or call JWT and talk to Clark and tell him what you want, They have ALL of the old Racer Brown stock. You guys are more then welcome to try NEW things, but it is going to more then likely cost you, and a repair and replacement of the cam and rockers. You mentioned you had SINGLE springs with a .550 lift cam, if what I read was correct. ONLY SUNBELT that I know of runs the SINGLE spring configuration on their cams, I think from memory the seat pressure is about 75-80psi on the seat. Have fun with RPM's over 7K. Talk to Dave Robello, he did a head for me $700.00 I provided the cam blank (stock Nissan Cam) and rockers. He did all of the rest, that head after being torn down three times that I know of, is STILL running on Bernards engine, NO PROBLEMS! This stuff is not rocket science guys, go with the people who have BLAZED the trail for you and forget about all the new cool stuff, well unless you are running a roller rocker and cam setup, oops, disregard that last comment LOL. Anyway, I am sorry to hear about your problem. That can be an expensive repair. And YES prime the engine before you try to start it, JUST LIKE A SB CHEVY TONY, has worked EVERY time for me, well except for the oil all over your hand when you pull the pump down to get the drive gear installed after you prime the engine, and don't let the engine sit afert the priming procedure. Start the engine imediately after you have primed, and the oil pump will take right off while cranking the engine. Oil spray bars, in my opinion are a requirement for a high lift cam. True they don't spray right at the lobe on the correct side, but that really is not a problem when the engine is running. Also, you mentioned the oil holes in the cam, Don't even think about drilling a oil hole on the lobe where the ramp starts. The hole was placed right where it needs to be. If you do drill for oiling on the beginning ramp, on the toe, or as the lobe rotates after the toe on the closing side of the lobe, I will GUARANTEE you WILL see a wear pattern on the rocker pad right where the new oil hole is located on the lobe. You need to oil on the HEEL of the lobe, you know whaer there is valve lash. As hard as it may seen to believe, that new small oil hole in the incorrect place will act like a SCRAPER on the rocker pad. I have a good story about this procedure that was recommended to me for crank journals from a hotrod book, needless to say when I tore the engine down I noted the scraping on the rod and main bearings, a little different situation, but the results WILL be the same. anyway.

theyare different, but that is not to say you cant make it work. If I were in you place, Iwould just do the 60mm TB upgrade. Arizona zcar has the adapter for about 45 USD and you can source the TB easily enough. Good upgrade, and that should be all you will ever need, well unless you want to run more then 600hp.

In my opinion, you are wasting you time efforts and money. You want a quicker throttle response, get a 11 Lb flywheel and you will be happy. That modification is is strictly for race, on a N/A engine. Also, you just may want to talk to BHK for a damper. The ATI component is expensive, and I am not all the convenienced they located the harmonic frequency of the L28 engine. Myexperience with ATI is that they really could not be bothered with the L engine seriously. Also, at the time I was speaking to them, they had no solution for bely pullies for the damper and the L engine. I contacted BHK and worked with them to develop a damper that was tuned for the correct harmonics of the L engine. The part was tested at Robello racing and verified with a stock damper to ensure the tuning was correct. The new part was then tested at Robello racing, real time functional tests on a dyno. So that is my take, I really got to a point with this stuff and vendors that if they gave me guff, and the standard yea we can do that fast talking routine, I told them thank you, you don't have the parts and equipment I require for my car. At the time ATI treated me like a bastard child because I was not building a small block chevy. So with about 90K invested in my car, I wasn't about to get into the standard engineering pissing match with them. BHK , robello, and myself developed a number of damper configurations and I am very happy with their product. Now, if you really want the very best damper for your engine, you need a fluid damper, hands down that is the very best solution for the L engine damper, but again, they had not time for me to develop a damper for the L engine. However, they do make a damper, that shewbeck utilized with a few thousands honing would fit the L engine, but the pully issue was and still is a part that has to be custom made. I think ATI is alot of hype, and their product in reality is not suited for the L engine as an off the shelf bolt on component.

Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.

Ok well, you did not say what the application is, but the specifications that you stated are more cam then you need. 62 degrees overlap will give you a soggy bottem end, and you should start making power in the 3-3500 rpm range. The lobe center is WAY off! you need to look at a 110-112 lobe center for the results you are looking for. Also the .480 lift could be a little higher say in the .500-.550 range. This is a street car right? so what is better suited to your application is a short duration and high lift not the long duration short lift for the best results.

You just may want to consider a chain adjuster. Get that piston off the job and go manual adjuster. That will keep valve train stability, you don't have room for chain slop, it does make a big difference. and while you are at it, buy the adjustable cam gear, and make sure the cam timing is matching the cam card. looks like a cool build. What is the static compression with the extra 6cc's of piston space?

Why? Because you can run 1000Hp with the right turbo, thats why.

I am running the LD pump on my car right now. You will have to trim about 1/2" off the cover. Take a look at the LD pum, and trim the cover to fit the pump. If you had the LD gasket it would be a great template for you. I can describe the part well, but the last part of the cover with the stepped portion in the cover needs to be removed. I may have a picture, mail me at mtjeffzx1@att.net if you would like to see what I did.

The bottom line of all the testing I did in the car, on the engine stand points to one thing, the engine getting hot, to hot to run hard. I have had heating problrms that I could see between 3&4 and I am sure 5&6 were having problems as well. Now that there are people pushing over 350hp they are starting to see what I have been dealing with for a number of years. The head cooling on the L series standard engine SUCKS! The second part is that the block sucks also! I don't know how much time and effory any of you have put in on this issue, but I can tell you I ended up spending close to 3ooo.oo with machine work, and dyno time to get the engine so that it could be tested with its new changes. I have run the car, and now I see that when the engine starts getting hot, and I have the fan set to about 175-180 degrees, that as the fan turnes on, the engine starts to cool down. That is one improvement I was very happy to see, when the fan is on the engine cools, and I can watch the temp gauge go down. Running down the road, I have not seen any problems, so far, but I have not pushed the engine to hard thus far. I was having problems with the alternator belt. I am not done with testing, i want to run the car in its, new home, container so that the ambient temp rises to about 80-90 degrees F and observe the temp of the engine. that will be my best test, with the A/C on. I could make the car overheat in my garage in santa ana in the summer time running the car in the garage with the A/C on, so if that is not happening any longer, then as far as I am concrened the problem is a non issue now for the most part. One thing I do know for sure, if you are running 500hp or higher, you need to do something about the cooling of the engine, no question about it! The last thing to deal with is the system pressure, and if you increase the pressure as Tony said you hinder the bubbles from starting in the exhaust port of the head. Take a look at the sectioned head Jeff did, note the rust build up in specific areas of the head water passages. You will see that there is very little water flow in those areas, and that is the big problem.

>I can't wait to see results from a re-tune. I am hoping to see at least 550 to the wheels! Good luck, oh and please sendz me moneyz. =P < That is a tall order to fill, not to many L28's have made that much power. I am aware of a few that can do it or have done it, so get the thing on a load bearing dyno, load the piss out of it and see what you get. I am quite sure your dyno numbers will disappoint you on the mustang dyno, that machine is a heart breaker LOL. But for me, at the time, 489Hp at the wheels with a simulated 16% grade to pull, the car was struggeling the whole run. You will know for sure when you have hit the 550-650hp renge of power, because the car will do a burnout when you tag the throttle, and if you happen to be doing 75-80 MPH at the time that should not be a problem LOL. BTY, how were the engine temps running? Not to much after 500hp, you will start to see the heating /cooling issue come up, and you will not be able to keep the engine cool, two pulls MAX and it is time to cool down! that is what I have been working on with my engine.

Tony is correct, the wheel movement is not acceptable. Tont is also correct regarding the movement I had with my car and I did engineer a bushing that stopped a good amount of the wheel moving. I am told, that the trailing arm mounting bravkets welded to the sub frame are to weak to position the tire, or stop the movement, will stop all of the movement of the wheel. The Dyno will not tell you if you are applying the power evenly to both tires. So I ran the car for some time with incorrect alignment of the rear tire on the passenger side of the car. Not to much of a problem with street tires. The first time I did a run with my wrinkle wall's what a ride that was. I did my normal wot run and the way the car was aligned was so far out in the rear I could hardly keep the car on the road and it was a three lane street. I came up on power and I was doing a quick lane change. I had to almost go a half turn on the steering wheel to get the car to go strait, changed two lanes in about two seconds when I got into it. What a surprise that was, the car would not go strait, then I took a look at the alignment and what a surprise that was also. I have a set of trailing arm adjusters from specialty products to make the rear adjustable. So the alignment guy gets the car on the machine and does the alignment, yes it is all good now, WRONG! The new digital alignment machine said it was good, but when I had good traction, the TRUE alignment showed its ugly face, and the car would not pull strait. Upon further investigation, I found that the 1/2" offset of the adjusters were not positioned in the same general place, and in fact the left side adjuster was adjusted so the offset was closest to the K member, and the right side offset was the furthest away from the K member. There simply was NO WAY the rear of the car was aligned correct. I made the adjustment to the right side of the car and it started pulling strait. The rear K member of the car is floating so to speak. Nissan did not want all of the "noise" associated with a solid mount to the car chassis. No problem for me, and I don't think it is to loud. I also installed the "poly Derlin" bushings for the trailing arms, so that also are mounted "solid" with the additional parts for the trailing arms. According to Tony, and Frank the right tire was still moving on the dyno, and from what I found with the alignment on the right, that accounted for some of the movement (and tweaking the car chassis) That was @ 489RWHP on the mustang dyno. The car needed more work to secure the rear wheels in a fixed position. You need to fix the wheel movement or that car is going to throw you all over the place, and believe me, when you are under good power, you don't need to be putting that much time and effort into steering the car under power to keep it going strait, there is plenty other things to think about when you are racing.

maybe it would be best to state your setyp. What wastegate are you running? Boodt creep has nothing to do with the wastegate housing for the most part. True it does flow better then the .63 housing, but the exhaust turbine housing id not what controls the boost pressure, the wastegate does. So if the gate is to small you will get creep. Also the size of the gate should be a Tial 44 or larger. I was running the Tial 46 gate, and it did well for the most part, but I still had some creep, about 2psi. Keep in mind that although the Tial 46 sounds like a bigger unit then the Tial 44 gate, it is in fact not the case. I learned this from a call to Tial support, not a vender or supplier, but Tial support. According to Tial service the Tial 46 was designed specifically for the porsch car due to space constraints. Of course I found out that information AFTER I bought nd installed the 46mm part. The GT35R is good for 650Hp, so if you consider, that 8 apsi of boost on my engine making 300hp, the waste gate needed to vent 350hp worth of exhaust. a 1" pipe outlet simply will not accomplish this task, and you get creep. How are you venting the inlet, are you running bypassed, or venting to air? I had a problem one time when I just installed my turbo, I vould not get the thing to make anything over 12psi of boost. It took me a few runs, and some adjustments, but it turned out I did not connect the line to the recirculation valve, so the spring being an 11 pound spring opened @ 12psi and vented the additional boost back to the inlet of the turbo. You should be able to run at 8psi of boost all the way to redline, and if you cant do that, you need a bigger waste gate. A misfire generally will cause lack of power, and increased AFR's and boost will not seem to do anything. I guess it is possible that your surging could be caused, by a misfire, but your AFR's would be all over the place, rich lean, rich lean condition. There is something that is changing on the inlet of the turbo that is causing an air flow inconsistancy condition that makes the engine surge. The .82 housing was a waste of your money, and had I known you were doing that change I could have sent you my housing to use as a test mule to save you some money. Anyway, keep at it and you will find the problem, and when you do I am sure you will be a little disturbed that you did not find it earlier. Also, if you are required to set your plug gap to .020 then you should look into a bettter coil/coil packs. Also if you are running a single coil setup running the power you should be able to get with the 35R, lose that system, it will not perform to the levels you need, simply put you will never get enough spark duration at the higher rpm levels at that power with a single coil setup due to the cylinder pressures you will have for the power.

It's times like this that a picture would have been worth 4000-5000 dollars to you Phil. You contacted me regarding your fluttering some time ago and I gave you some areas to look at and check. Had you provided me with a few pictures I could have solved your problem in short order. I am sorry you hurt your engine in the process. You should have never tried a dyno pull until you fixed your problem. I am assuming you did not, as I did not take the time to read through all of the posts. The Turbo: You were way off base changing from the .63 A/R to the .82 A/R exhaust turbine housing. In fact your boost should have come on @ 3200 RPM's in the first place with the .63 housing. The .82 housing should have been used for high rpm levels, and RPM requirements. I made 658Hp at the crank with the .63 housing on the dyno @ 22psi of boost on race fuel. The boost problem you could not figure out, well as I said a picture would have been invaluable to you when you contacted me. I was able to get a quick look at your turbo outlet in one of your videos and knew what your problem was. I have seen it happen before, and if it makes you feel any better it took some time to figure out by Clark at JWT as well. Your couplers, the pretty blue ones are your problem! You did not design the inlet and outlet tubing sufficently and it has cost you dearly. My friend Mark had the very same problem with his car. Seems that under boost the rubber/silicone couplers were sucking in and basically plugging off the turbo inlet/outlet. So as they would suck in, the boost would surge, and as they returned to their designed ID the turbo would again make boost. So the solution: Every coupler in your case is suspect. My recommendation to you, after you build a new engine, is to run the steel/stainless/aluminum piping whichever the case may be correctly. The tubing should fit almost perfecctly, menaing that you have 1/4" or less between eack tube coupling. Couplers are not used to make your tubing install easier, like in the case of your outlet 90 on the outlet of the turbo, but to connect a well engineered tubing system together and seal them. You just went through the school of hard knocks Phil, and if you listen to my advice and correct the intercooler tubing gaps between tubes, as well the INLET tubing, if needed, I can assure you the surging you are experiencing will mysteriously go away. REGARDS: jeffp