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ZX rear calipers: just say no


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Guest tom sixbey

i just rebuilt my stock 79 zx calipers with a kit i got from AIP (automotive import parts). No problems. If you're having a lot of leaks, you're bound to have crappy quad seals that were dry-rotted or didnt expand when exposed to the brake fluid (or possibly even caliperbodies and pistons that were overhoned to the point of being unsealable?) MY stock calipers have been good for 25 years so far, and don't show any signs of quitting. I WILL however agree with those who dont support their use on a rear disk swap for the early z though - they are a B!%*# to rebuild. If you are going to go through the trouble of a disk swap, GO THROUGH THE TROUBLE, and buy one of those outlaw conversions, and get the front done at the same time. It just doesn't make sense to pull a component conversion for a marginal performance increase. I have a 240Z and a 280zx, and i am taking no sides here (as if that should even be an issue on this board).

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Ok time for my .02 cents.

 

I have heard these arguements for MANY years now. I have the stock rear drums (aluminum) and the 4Runner calipers on the 300zx rotors in the front, and SS flex lines.

 

Pretty straight forward.

 

I take my car on the track regularly, and as i have upgraded the car..the suspension and the engine, My braking system was upgraded to the large front calipers several years ago.

 

I have not had any troubles stopping the car...could it stop better with rear calipers?... perhaps... Will the average Z out brake my 280 on a track?... not likely...

 

True story:

 

I let a solo 1 and 2 national champ drive my z this past summer... We were drving behind a full tilt 240Z race car.. 2100lbs.. (2.4L 6 in it with Su's)

My car tips the scales at 2900 with no one in it.. so at the time it was in the 3200lb range (driver plus me riding shotgun)

 

We chased this 240 all over the track (no passing allowed) we would back off for a lap or two to give some space, and next thing we knew, we were all over him.. my car obviously out accelerated him..that is not the point. We dove into the turns deeper and came out quicker, always feathering the throttle to stay off his rear end. The guy in the race car knew what he was doing, and was even running full slicks....

 

Now the point of the story:

We tailed his ass for 9 laps, and I had zero problem with the brakes... and we were driving HARD... it was actually scaring me a bit....

 

The moral...

 

The average street Z...heck even some of the meanest STREET Z's will never be able to fully use the potential of a good braking system....better brakes are for REPEATED stopping(unless you need to stop full tilt from 130+mph).. I don't know about you guys, but my stock brakes with good pads could lock up my sticky yoko AVS 225 in front and 245 in back....That indicates i had enough braking....It would not be wise to try it repeatedly.. ( I did this on the track for a direct comparison)

I went from 5 hot laps on the same track with stock brakes, to 14 with good pads, to 24+++ with my new 4Runner brakes...

 

ALL with the same rubber.. no mods except for minor hp tweaks from event to event...

ALL on the same track in similar conditions...

 

I would only put on rear disks for looks on my car... I have not had a need for them yet...

 

Now I'm not saying my Z is super quick, but I think it ain't your average street Z.

 

I would put this mod low on the MUST have's.....

 

Just my opinion though.....

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Try more than 9 laps. With stock brakes I faded them so bad on a long canyon road that I thought I was going to punch a hole in the firewall standing on them so hard. Butt was completely out of the seat and they still weren't doing anything.

 

Even after switching to 4x4 calipers and early ZX calipers in the back, I've had problems with Porterfield R4S pads chunking and coming off in big pieces at the track. My latest issue is boiling brake fluid. Happened last time I went out in 5 laps, but it was 114 degrees that day. I should have just gone home. I'm thinking I'll end up with JSK's kit on the front and something like Terry has on the rear. For those of us who DO push really hard, I think the drums are definitely a weak link.

 

ITS guys are always replacing drums, from what I hear.

 

That being said, I think you're right with regards to 99% of the street Z's out there, and I think most people DO put on rear discs for looks. Especially those guys who run 17's. Little drums don't look good in 17" rims.

 

Jon

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I know what you are getting at. And I think we are on the same page.

 

BTW I ran 24 laps.. no probs..the only reason I came in, cause my time slot was up..hehehe

 

If your talking lots of track use, then I aggree that stock stuff won't cut it for long... Even the mild upgrade stuff.

 

Also...its pretty hard to compare car to car... some 240's weigh in at 2300 lbs.. some 280's a tich over 3000lbs.... that throws some severe variablility about braking power right off the bat...

 

Suspension and hp are two other factors...a wild suspension set up and a stockish engine car is just not going to approach the ends of straights as hot, as a wild hp car...The more hp and the less the suspension set up, the more brakes required to get ya down to a speed to go through the corner..

 

We all chased a 944 turbo around the track that day as well.. he was real surprised how well moderately modded Z's could hang all over him... He could pull the stockish z's, but had his ass handed to him by quite a few of the wilder Z's.. (and BMW's that were there to).

 

anyways back to the brakes...For street Z's...not worth the effort..except when looking for bling bling.

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510 guys always switch to Z drums. What is the benefit of switching?

I learned this from the JTR manual. It claims the 510 and 610 guys tried the aluminum Z drums and found that they weren't as good as the cast iron.

 

The steel drums are less flexible to makes the brakes work better. It will even out the braking between front & rear, so the fronts are less prone to locking up first.

cast iron will take more heat too.

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