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Now then...what materials?


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Ok, I have drawings for the dimnsions of some floor frame rails, and a pretty good idea on how to install engine frame rails. Now my question, with the floor frame rails, the engine frame rails, and a 6pt roll bar (already installed) is that going to make a 240z tough enough to handle 400 hp? (R200)

Would the engine frame rails and the roll bar be enough, or are the ffr's a must?

AND, could I get the stuff needed at a local performance shop? Do I just ask for some steel tubing cut the way I want it?

The dimensions listed for the ffr's are 2"x3", .085" wall steel tubing

and the engine frame rails = 2.5"x2.5", .093"

Sound good to those who have done this?

 

Thanks

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Sounds like you have Pete's plans. With the sub frame connectors (ffr's) and a 6 pt cage intalled, it should handle 400hp fine. I would ad front and rear strut bars for a little more stiffness. Triangulate the fronts if at all possible.

 

I doubt most performance shops will have the steel materials you need. I bought mine from an industrial steel supply place. They had everything I needed in scrap bins. Cheap too.

 

You can rent a cut-off saw at most tool rental places or you can get 10" cut-off discs that will fit your basic chop saw (or even Skil saw) and cut the steel to length yourself. It's not too tough. Are you doing your own welding or are you farming it out?

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The welding will be done by a friend of a friend (who will also do a majority of the cutting, etc. I'll just watch and lend a hand where I can.)

who builds frames for hotrods and does some engine work...he's got a mean little roadster...

Anyway, it looks as if the sub frame connectors go underneath the carpet, looks like it'll be a good chance to throw in a carpet kit and have the seats redone...or...better yet, some racing seats. :twisted::-D

After the frame is good and stiff, all that's left is some interior work and she'll be a mean street machine. :)

Oh, the MSA strut bars...good enough for the job?

 

Thanks,

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JB BA,

From what I have read on this board the floor frame rails are more important than the engine frame rails provided your existing engine frame rails are rust free. Most of the weakness in the 240 body is in the center section where you sit. The floor frame rails as described on Pete's website tie the front section(which is fairly stiff) to the rear(also fairly stiff). I'm in the process of stiffening up my chassis also. My engine frame rails are rust free so I dont plan on replacing them. I'm going to cut out the existing floor frame rail(if you can call it that) that ends under the seats and replace with 2x3 tube, extending it out all the way back. There is a recent post where someone used a different size tube(cant remember measurement) and welded it into the existing floorframe rail without cutting the floor pan. Another option is to weld it like this:

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=857

 

which would probably be stronger but would be a pain in a street car but no worse than climbing over a roll bar I guess!!

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Hmmm...all I got from the link was:

"Not Authorized"

 

?Anyone else able to get there?

 

Can you repost the link? Or maybe the pic(s)?

Yeah, I don't have a problem jumping over a rollbar...as long as it's there for a reason. :twisted::D

Anything that can be covered with a little carpet is preferable. Once I get the car strong enough that I'm positive it will handle anything (or at least most anything, no car is bulletproof) I throw at it, I'm going to go all out on the inside...he...I won't even officially have the car until this weekend, and I'm already months ahead of myself...I see what you guys mean about the "while I'm at it" syndrome. :roll:

 

Thanks,

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Ah ha. The link opened. That's erm, pretty intresting. It looks pretty strone though. I wonder if I use a bit smaller tubing, and run 2 - 3 different strips, possibly 4 - 5 depending on the thickness of the tube... you guys think that would work. That would be a little more comfortable, and a bit more astheticly pleasing once the carpet was one top...

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I just noticed on that last link where the guy put the subframe connector inside the car rather than underneath, that the connector looks like it would interfere with the heel of your foot when trying to hit the brake.

 

I would think long and hard about that one.

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So they CAN go underneath the car? That's what I was hoping. The drawings that I was looking at seemed to show the connectors running along the inside of the car, under the seats. Does anyone have a good example of how this is done UNDER the car, instead of inside?

 

Thanks,

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Well, I won't say it's a good job, but mine are stronger (and weigh more)! I think I went just a bit over board on strengthing the frame :D:D ! I am going to be running 450hp + and I don't want an intrustive roll cage so I figured this is much better!

 

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/demidion/lst?.dir=/What+Pictures/My+Z+Cars&.src=ph&.view=

 

Take a look under 75 280z / frame work. reminds me I have to take some more pictures!

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Dang Dave, Nice Work!!

 

I have a new bookmark of subframe connector how-to pics.

 

We ought to make that one a sticky in the chassis forum.

 

denny411 did a recent posting on his connectors, which from his description sounds like he built them inside the stock connectors (I had a little trouble following his description, pictures would help)

 

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21627&highlight=

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