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MSA Aero II body kit


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I used screws and bolts..

 

I didn't mold them into the bodywork in case of an accident (less to fix)

 

I put the fasteners in places that are hard to see. The only ones that are visible were on the side skirts and they are kind of camouflaged as well.

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Guest Anonymous

I am using bolts on the airdam because I need to replace it often. I have the rear skirt epoxy'd and bondo'd but the seam cracked when there was a minor colision. Now I am going to bond it with the flexable E-6000 glue that MSA recomends.

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Dalton,

Long shot, but are you from Dalton GA? Just wondering, I have been seeing a nice 240 driving around here lately on sunny days.

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i recomend molding the side skirts to the car.. nt with bondo but whit a baremetal to fiberglass compound.. and have it riveted to the body to let it cure for 2 days then drill out the rivets and fill in the holes.. i had the rear bumper molded and riveted to the chassie and filled in with metal to fiberglass compound.. and i did also mold the front end too.. ive had the side skirts and rear on for a lil over 3 years now and theres no cracking on it and i drive the car everyday.. the font jas a lil crack in it but its a lot better then the huge gap that the kit has with the headlight scoops.. in my opinion by molding the kit on the car it give it a more natural and streamline look.. it looks like its part of the car and not so much a kit.. 336708_13_full.jpg

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God I love your car! :D Your right it does look really really really NICE! I hope mine turns out half that nice. I am using the same body kit as you but with out the spoiler.

 

 

With that body kit do you take off that big heavy bumper on the front and rear? Basically what do I leave on as far as bumbers?

 

Guy

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i left mine on but you can take them off cuz they are really heavy.. i left mine on for safty reasons.. if someone rearends me and i dont have a bumper .. there goes my car.. if its too heavy for you.. you probably could fabricate a lighter internal bumper rail and some brackets to attach the front and rear MSA bumpers to it.. or you could do what i did and just leave them in there..

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So does the front air dam and rear skirt just cover the chrome part of the bumpers and I just remove the black rubber part that is over the chrome part? Is that how it is covered? I will also keep mine on for saftey reasons.

 

 

Guy

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just remove all the chrome and rubber off the bumper frame and on the shocks for your bumper theres a screw that you remove to compress your shocks.. after you do that you just fasten the airdam and rear bumper/skirt to the bumper frame. the MSA bumpers are actually about 2" closer to the body...

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There was a guy (Gerry Grahm) on Zdriver that took the rear heavy bumper and designed a new one out of stainless steel, used waterjet technology to cut it, had it powdercoated, and used the MSA Aero Kit II for the front and rear. I emailed him some time ago and got the cad drawings for his mods.

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  • 5 months later...

The fit on the MSA aero kit that I just received seem to have much to be desired. The rear bumper fits tight in some placed and has 1/4 gaps in others across the back and sides. The side pods are about 3/8" too long to fit properly and are twisted. When one end is tight against the body the other end is 1/2" away. I have not tried the front bumper yet but it does appear to be a better fit that the rest of the components.

 

Is this the normal quality of this kit?

 

I was planning on having to glass in the underside if the rear bumper to get a tight fit to the body and filling the top with filler. I wish they had trimmed so much of the original glass off. The sides are going to take some work to get any decent fit. It appears like it might be just as easy to cut them in two and shorten them and then reglass them together.

 

If anyone has had similar problems on this kit how did you solve them?

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