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clutch problems help


stony

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ok heres the situations. i burned my clutch up as most know allready ;> i replaced the clutch and drove fine for a couple days then i knowticed the master cylinder was leaking inside the car. and the next day i lost my clutch i figured the master took a crap. so i replaced it. bled it and still have a real mussy pedal and clutch wont disengage enough to put it in gear???? I'm getting a nice clear steam of new fluid from the slave cylinder but still no clutch and mussy pedal???? air bubble???? bad slave??? thge slave was new 2 years ago and has less them 1000 miles on it.

 

Is there a special method or trick to bleeding the clutch system? this crap is frustrating.

 

i now have the 4.88 diff in and wow i must say its a huge difference. if i ever get this day clutch issue worked out it will be nice ;>

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I would guess you still have air in the master cylinder. I would disconnect the hydraulic line and make up one that loops back into the reservoir and pump the hell out of it for a while until you no longer get air bubbles. This method works good for easily bleeding stubborn master cylinders too.

 

--John

'73 FP 240Z

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Here is a problem I ran into once. I was working on a Vette and trying to bleed a new slave cylinder. I could not get a good pedal until I read the shop manual and found the directions. The problem was that the bleed valve was not quite at the top of the slave with the slave mounted to the transmission. :oops: The manual said to unbolt the slave and angle it up so that the bleeder was on top. This is what I did but it appeared that if you jacked the back of the car up enough you could actually bleed it in place. I do not know if this is your problem but it sure drove me nuts.

Hope this helps.

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