Guest bastaad525 Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 I found out that the MBC I have IS the same unit that MSA sells, dug up my old catalog today and it was in there..... The 'Dial-a-Boost'. I got quite a deal on it for $30 over MSA's $100+ Anywho, I uh... kinda forgot to ask the guy I bought this thing from, exactly how to hook it up It has two openings (which need hose fittings, I know... but while I'm here, what size hose fittings does it need?) labeled 'in' and 'out' ('magine that ) Can someone give me the rundown on how to hook this thing up to my stock L28ET and T3? Any precautions I need to take or common mistakes I need to avoid? Sorry to keep asking all these newb questions..... I figure you guys are the best people to ask...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 Also, from what I can tell, this MBC is a bleed off type, which is different from the ball and seat type that I was gonna get from Dawes Devices. The Dawes website says the bleed type.... well basically says that they suck but when it explains why that is it doesn't make sense to my non-turbo-understanding brain. Does it really matter, if I'm only running 10psi, if I have one type or the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 i have that same controller and i still run it.There is a T in the line that goes between the compresor and the actuator.On one side there is a restrictor going to the actuator that determines how much boost you can get out of the turbo.You can hook it up and a pass thru controller i did cuz i was having problems with my hybrid turbo it mves way to much air and i couldn't get my boost over 15psi.Now i can run as much as i want and it works fine.I don't know the size hose fittings but if you just get em the same size as your actuator and nipple on the housing you whould be fine.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 So I'm okay using this one then? I'm thinking maybe I should pawn it off for $20 and buy the Dawes one.. but wont bother if this one will work fine. After some reading around, I'm really worried about spiking with this unit, as all the websites that sell the ball bearing and spring type unit say bleed type units are very prone to bad spikes. Is this just ad hype to sell their product or is there truth to it? Anyway, so to hook it up, put a tee in the hose that runs between the turbo body and WG actuator, and run a hose from the T to the MBC in. Where do I run the hose from the MBC out?? Also, kinda off subject, I'm also installing the 1G DSM Blow off valve, I notice it has a nipple for a vacuum line too, on top of the canister, where do I need to hook this up? Intake manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted July 5, 2003 Share Posted July 5, 2003 when i had mine hooked up as a bleed off system i didn't get any spike.Even now i don't get spink so i think it's all bs.If you put a tee in there make sure the wg side has a restrictor or else it won't work to well.If you just want to run your turbo thru one side of the controller and then hook the wg to the other side it works too.The nipple on top of the bov does go to the intake after the tb so when you get vacuum it makes the bov open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 okay now I'm confused, you're saying I can just cut the hose between the WG and the turbo body, and run the boost controller in line? I thought you did that with ball and spring type pressure hold MBC's, but not bleed style? Wouldnt the operation of the MBC be opposite if you just put it inline like that? I.E.: fully open would actually be stock boost, fully closed would be highest boost? About the restrictor, what exactly does this part do, why will the boost controller not work well w/o it, and where do I get them, any auto parts store? Is there one in use on the stock T3 already? When the guy sold me the MBC it is just the unit by itself, no fittings, hose, just the main unit with the knob. Also, if I do the tee method, I'm still not clear on where to run the hose from the MBC 'out' side, or do I just let it bleed to atmosphere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 I had the MSA boost controller for a while. I hated it. It spiked bad, and it was temperature senstive. When the motor warmed up, the boost rose - not a good thing. I don't know about the ball and spring type, I got a good deal on a used Profec B and I haven't looked back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 Ugh..... okay well that's one for and one against..... The more info I read on the net though the more I'm thinking this boost controller is gonna be a POS. One thing I did read though is that the spiking is directly related to the length and diameter of hose you use to connect it to the WG and turbo body. The page recommended using the shortest length hose possible, and to forget about trying to mount the MBC inside the cockpit, and the largest diameter possible too. Thin, long hose is what makes the boost take so long to get up thru the MBC and force it's way back down to the waste gate, causing that massive boost spike. I'll most likely end up just ordering one of the Dawes MBC's asap, I've heard many good things about them, if worse comes to worse I'll put the Dial a boost into the car in the meantime and just play it real safe keeping a close eye on everything...... man I shoulda known the thing was crap..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 i liked mine, currently running a dial a boost type controller, it works well and consistent, i used it like a bleeder. one turn after you can feel the spring opening up equaling one psi in my case, and worked like a champ, three turns 11psi and no spike for me. its coming out im going ricer gadget APEXI with the blue screen over mounted where my tach is soon to not be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 hm...... two for one against........ does the 'brand' maybe make a difference? The one I have has no indication of brand on it.... looks near identical to the one in the MSA catalog. I can see how heat would affect the thing too... I mean... it's all plastic... and they want you to keep it as close to the turbo as possible. Like I said... I'll try it.. I mean it's already bought..... but man.. I hope it doesn't blow my engine up! Will any spiking be easily discernable on the boost gauge? I'm using an autometer type which I've heard are very accurate.. but I've heard most spiking happens so fast that you dont even see the needle move. How much spiking is too much (I'm sure any is too much)? Like if it spikes up to 12 psi for a split second, or up to 15psi for 5 full seconds (bye bye engine!)? *learning...... learning* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug71zt Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 First time I really put the boots to my new hybrid - the boost gauge went off the end . That would be 22 psi on a stock engine. No damage on the engine but I have lots of fuel and good ign retard programmed in. Don't worry - you'll hear the knock. Just get you foot out of it if you hear it. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 6, 2003 Share Posted July 6, 2003 yeah I've heard it many times before.... just more worried now as lots of people have emphasized that knock on a turbo is a lot more dangerous than on an N/A One question I still haven't been able to get anyone to answer, about this dial a boost..... if the 'in' side of the unit is a hose tee'd into the hose between the turbo and WG, where does the 'out' hose go?? Since it's a 'bleed' am I just venting it to open air? Will the MBC ever be subject to vacuum to suck air back into it?. Do I plumb it back into the intake somewhere? Also do I need the restrictor scotty was talking about, and can I get them at any auto parts store? What exactly do i ask for and what exactly does the restrictor do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 yep the out side does go to the atmosphere and i used a rivet and crushed the end and used that for a restrictor.Prestty easy to do the one that came with the kit wouldn't block enuf air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Then I dont need to worry about it sucking air back in? About the restrictor, I bought this MBC off a friend, it didn't come with anything except the MBC itself, no fittings or anything (and no instructions!) that's why I have no idea what the restrictor is Thank you for all the info Scotty I dont mean to keep pelting you with questions...... but why exactly do you need this restriction in the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 the valve only lets air thru one way that's why there is an in and out.You need the restrictor cuz the air would rather take the path of less resistance.So going to the actuator is easier than going to the atmosphere.So it'll just boost the same and won't adjust much if even at all.No prob on the questions everyone has to learn somehow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 thank you for your patience Scotty okay so I'm clear on what the restrictor does, I dont know if I want to crush any rivets though would putting something like a hose clamp around the hose to the WG work? That way I could adjust it either more tight or loose to help get the boost I'm aiming for. If I understand everything right this should serve the same purpose, as far as putting more resistance in the hose there so the air will go thru the bleed instead. If not, do auto parts stores sell restrictors or where can I find them? One thing about this MBC though, it will definately let air pass thru in both directions, dunno if it's a different one than the one you had, but when I open it I can breathe thru either port. But I did read elswhere today that there should never be vacuum in these lines so I wont worry about it sucking air in. I might put a check valve inline which only lets air pass one way or just rig some kind of filter on the other end just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted July 7, 2003 Share Posted July 7, 2003 Right now I'm just running one of those plastic vacuum tees for a boost controller. It's hooked up in line between the turbo and wastegate actuator with the T end open to atmosphere. Gets me 10lbs of boost with no spiking and cost $2.00. This was a temporary fix to get me 10psi when I stripped the hex bolt on my turboxs manual boost controller. I am planning on changing it to a grainger type controller but it's been working so good that I havn't gotten around to changing it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 hehe kewl that it bleeds off just the right amount..... you got lucky on that one, though I suppose you could get it right like that just by trying different size tee's or even using drill bits to open the orifice more. Same principle as the adjustable one I have. BayAreaZT do you use a restrictor in the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.