r200 seals

[rudypoochris]

Thanks!

[BRAAP]

Jon,

This is confusing to me. I always thought it was a crush sleeve as well. Back in the mid ‘90’s, I thought I could just remove the input flange and replace it on my R-200, torque to spec just as ZCARNUT stated above. After Torque to spec with a freshly calibrated Snap-On torque wrench, it howled every since!

 

Is there any formal documentation showing it as a reusable “shim” and not a one time use “Crush sleeve”? My howling diff experience and this SHIM info now has me all confused as to what really took place causing my R-200 to howl after removing and reinstalling the input flange.

[JMortensen]

The FSM shows how the pinion bearings get preloaded.

 

Here's the basic jist:

You've got the two tapered roller bearings with a spacer and shims to set the distance. Less shim = more pinion bearing preload. More shim = less preload. After that is the spacer, which doesn't affect preload at all. All it does is take up space on the pinion shaft between the forward tapered roller and the ball bearing. After that, the roller bearing, and then the seal.

 

Here's the steps from the FSM:

Adjust drive pinion preload with spacer and washer between front and rear bearing inner races, regardless of pinion height adjusting washer.

 

This adjustment must be carried out without the oil seal inserted.

 

1. Press fit front and rear bearing outer races into gear carrier using Drive Pinion Outer Race Drift Set (deleted part numbers)

2. Insert rear bearing inner race into Dummy Shaft

3. Fit drive pinion bearing spacer, washer front bearing inner race, Dummy Shaft Collar and companion flange in that order on dummy shaft and tighten drive pinion nut to specified torque (deleted torquing instructions).

4. Measure pinion bearing preload using Prelad Gauge and select washer and spacer that will provide required preload. See Figure PD-49. Pinion bearing preload (without oil seal) 10 to 13 kg-cm (8.7 to 11.3 in-lb).

 

Notes:

a. Replace bearing washer and spacer with thicker ones if pinion cannot be turned by hand while it is being tightened.

b. Preload of old bearing is the same value as that of a new bearing.

 

So even setting the preload requires you to torque the pinion nut without the seal in place. Once it is set, then you pull the nut off, install the seal and retorque the nut.

 

I just found one better. I'll post the seal replacement instructions next...

[JMortensen]

Seal replacement instructions from FSM:

REPLACEMENT OF OIL SEALS

Replacement of oil seals with differential gear carrier assembly installed on the car.

 

FRONT OIL SEAL

 

Procedures are as follows:

1. Drain gear oil.

2. Raise car on hoist.

3. Remove insulator, exhaust tube and main muffler mounting bolt to free them from the car body.

4. Detach propeller shaft.

5. Remove drive pinion nut.

6. Extract companion flange with a suitable puller.

7. Remove oil seal with Gear Carrier Oil Seal Puller

8. Set new oil seal in position with Gear Carrier Front Oil Seal Drift

9. Fit companion flange on drive pinion and secure it in position by tightening nut to specified torque confirming the following preload with Drive Pinion Flange Wrench.

 

Tightening torque of pinion nut: 137 to 159 ft-lb

Pinion bearing preload (with oil seal) 9.5 to 15.0 in-lb

At companion flange bolt hole: 6.8 to 10.8 lbs

 

10. Reinstall rear stabilizer, propeller shaft and muffler in reverse order of removal, and fill up gear oil.

So yes, I am sure, and Steve Golik was right. It absolutely, positively is not a crush sleeve, and that was very apparent when I actually pulled the pinion and looked for myself.

 

EDIT--I do think that their recommended pinion bearing preload with the seal in is supposed to be without the carrier installed, which means that measurement can't really be taken with the diff in the car...