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2004R Just arrived !


madmanadam

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Hello,

 

Just got the trany delivered today :D

 

I was told it would be in a crate and it was not and the converter was barly

in it with nothing holding in place so it has a little scuffs on the splines.

 

I have noticed that I need wiring for the trany to lock it up? Where to get what to do?

 

Another thing I noticed is that the rear shaft/spline wiggles :shock: , is this normal?

 

The tran came from Florida Street and Strip/ Ebay.

 

I would hate remove my existing trans and put this in and find out its bad.

Well I will soon find out, plan on pulling engine and tran this coming week.

 

Any comments on what to look for and what to do about the wiring/ non computer.

 

Any help would be great Thanks

Adam

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Help,

 

You is running the 2004r?

Got some Q's

 

Wiring?

 

Should the rear shaft wiggle about a 1/4"? but the trans is emty of fuild.

 

My TH350 wiggle but not that much.

 

Help Thanks

I only want this car down for a weekend, not pulling until I get everything together first. Knowing me it could be apart for a long time, if I dont do all at once. :wink:

 

Thanks again

Adam

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It is ok for the output shaft to have play. The driveshaft will center it.

There have been a few articles on wiring up the lockup on the converter. Many places sell kits for that, but call a good HP tranny shop in your area and they will tell you how to do it. There is an article in one of my old hotrod mags by a guy out here in CA (I actually spoke to him, his shop is near my work). Otherwise, give bowtieoverdrives a call (or look on their website, they may have some details (when i spoke to them about it, they also recommended a switch on the brake pedal to disengage the lock-up in case of an emergency stop/brake. It is a very simple task ( I never did get around to doing it, but from what I read, it was very very simple). It does involve opening the tranny though (dropping the pan).

Hope that helps. Also, the Cable geometry at the carb is very important. Check out the Bowtieoverdrives.com site for details on their system. i've been to their shop and their stuff looks very legit!

 

Tim

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Thanks Tim,

 

Been to several sites, looking at kits. Lots of them.

I just do not want to open this trans up.

 

I have decided not to put the trans in till Fall, to darn nice out to take the car apart and knowing me it would be apart for awhile.

 

Drip and go till no more go. most of the dripping is in the garage and the on the back of the car.

 

If anyone on has a copy of instruction on installing a kit I would love to get my hands on it before I order one, just to see what I need to due be for hand.

 

Thanks

Adam

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O.K.,

Just found another site that stated that I could just use a toggle switch to lock up the converter but did not say which wire/plug to hook-up to.

 

Stated, just need to toggle switch that puts 12 volts to the lock up converter.

 

Anyone have any info on this, which wire or prong on side of trany?

 

Thanks

 

This would be the easies and quickest way.

This is how my 95 Ram is, switch on dash, so i'm use to doing this all the time.

 

Thanks Again

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You may find the toggle switch solution to be a PITA because you will always have to remember to switch it off when coming to a stop otherwise the car will stall. Give Bowtie Overdrives a call!!! They will point you in the right direction.

 

Here, I'll make it easy for you:

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

760/947-5240

 

Tim

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Thanks Tim,

 

Just got e-mail form the ones I bought the trans from, they will not warrenty the trans if I use a toggle, they recomment the Jegs kit.

 

Not only that they told me that my trans left there shipping dock with the trans on a pallet, which I did did not receive that way. So someone removed the pallet, Airborne Express. and also lost so misc. stuff that was suppose to come with trans. :evil:

 

Thanks again Tim

 

Adam

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Just finished hooking up my 700r4 lockup. I used the stock brakelight switch located above the brake pedal to activate a relay with the wire that's hot when the brake is applied. The relay is a SPDT, so the 12V that goes to the lockup is is the NC position and you can run your tailights from the other position, or just leave the tailight wire hooked up to the brakelight switch. May be overkill, but I had the relay sitting around. GM switches are available that do the same thing.

 

The 12v goes to the A terminal on the tranny. D is ground. The TCC solenoid that is being activated by this 12V can also be self-grounding, varies. Just hooking up 12v to activate the lockup probably isn't the best solution. If there isn't at least a switch to turn it off, the lockup will likely kill the engine as if it were a standard tranny without the clutch. There's a 4th gear pressure switch inside the tranny that controls the grounding of the solenoid, I would use it at a minimum.

 

I used the B&M lockup control, it's the most expensive option for kits. :cry: When I initially bought it this website didn't exist, and I didn't have internet access anyway. Keep searching the web, several sites have diagrams and better explanations that mine.

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  • 10 months later...

Well, it has been almost a full year since I received the Trans.

I finally found time to put it in and guess what? It made it half way around the block before the pump BLEW.

Got hold of the builder and with Airborne, been waiting the whole time for a claims form Airborne.

Looks like I'm getting another Trans shipped to me! Just hope all works out with this one. Different shipping company.

 

Just updating.

Posted new pic of car in General Photos

 

Adam

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....i had a similar problem with a tranny and got fed up and decided to rebuild a 200r4.....bought a video and manual from JCWhitney and followed it through.....it worked flawlessly and made my 72 Chevelle with 383 and 4.11 rear tame on the highways and an animal off the line...good luck.

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mc: I'm looking at building one of these for my Z (would like to build one that lasts) so I'm looking for success stories and parts lists. What tranny core did you use, what high performance/ add on parts did you install, and how long have you been running it (miles/passes)?

 

The tranny forum on turboBuick.com has got me running scared... they seem to think that there are only a few shops in the nation who do these rebuilds right. To make matters worse, only a small percentage of the 200-4R's came with performance valve bodies out of the factory, and the others don't seem to enjoy being mistreated :roll: .

 

How did you like the video... should I consider it a "must"?

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..a few in the nation????THAT WOULD SCARE ANYONE TO RUN AND PAY THEIR PRICES..... i always like to undertake as much as possible to try and make sure its done right and to save some money[fireman's pay in the big apple only goes so far]... i liked the video, it allows you to follow along and see what a shop manual can never do....if it gets confusing just hit the rewind button and take another look ...transmissions,especially an overdrive have alot of parts and it helped me keep it all in order..i had built one other trans prior to this[t350]....i used a core from a Caddy because it was cheap, low milage and not likely abused by a racer.. Its not set up with the GN/SS valve body but i upgraded with a cheap kit and it worked excellent...I was able to make all the tools needed for disassembly and such.....the most needed tool is a dial guage indicator and stand[cheap and easy to find] to set up the clearances[very important from what i had researched]....look in your yellow pages/internet under transmission part dealers and most will sell you the quality kits for cheap as compared to Summitt/Jegs....i enjoyed it for two years of use and ended up selling the car after 9/11....give it a go.

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Two years of transportation (and play)... You must have done something right!

 

I'll get the video-- sometimes a person picks up stuff by watching that isn't well documented in the manual.

 

Hardened steel pump rings are on my list of parts to buy (haven't sourced them yet, know where they are available?)... I don't need a repeat of Adam's exploding pump. :shock:

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I've been watching this post too. I have a 200 4R that I will put into the 1940 Chevy behind a very mild SBC. There is a guy who sells the video and complete rebuild kits on ebay for what looks to be a good price....

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Good ratios and OD 4th does make it a hard tranny to ignore. Finding a core that hasn't been cooked is not so easy. (Most of these cars in my local 'self serve' yard are there because the trans went away. So much for the drum upon which the 2nd gear band clamps).

 

One of the builders from TurboBuick is getting together a performance rebuild book, and I'm waiting for that book before actually beginning my rebuild. I figure it can't hurt to watch how it is done a few times before I start wrecking real parts, so I'll get the video too.

 

If you haven't picked up a core yet, I recall that the author/builder thinks the Caddy AA trans valve body can be made to shift well. You likely know that the performance oriented valving (and larger 2nd gear servos) came only in the Buick turbo cars, Monte Carlo SS, Turbo TA and Hurst Olds vehicles.

 

I think that I'll buy my Alto red kit here:http://www.bulkpart.com

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Tim,

Do you have a link to this guys ebay auction? I tried searching for it, but came up with next to nothing.

 

I am going to get a mild rebuild on my BRF code (GN valve body) 2004R for the GNZ from Jimmy's down in Illinois for $1050 and he pulls it out, rebuilds it, installs it, test drives it and waranties it. Great guy to deal with!

 

I have been thinking about rebuilding the 2004R myself, but many people told me it's not worth the hassle. It can't be all that hard with a video to see how it's done. How can you screw up, everything has it's place.

 

!M!

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